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Choke lever and cable broke - suggestions?

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    #1

    Choke lever and cable broke - suggestions?

    I finally got my 82 GS1100L up and running and when I started it the darn choke cable snapped and the lever (finger lever type) broke. So now I'm back to not having a running bike. I have a 1980 GS1000E parts bike but it has the plunger type of choke and I have no idea if its compatible. Its mounted right in the triple tree bolt so I don't know where I'd mount it.

    If I need to get a replacement for the entire left hand switch module does anyone have a suggestion for where to order from? I'd like to get a new cable at the same time.

    Also, any way to get back on the road in the meantime? The bike will turn over and start most of the time but will die quickly after, presumably because it needs a little bit of choke until warm.

    Thanks.


    Location: US (Ohio to be exact)
    Bike: 1982 GS1100L
    Tags: None
    #2
    My '82 1100e has broke twice since it became too hard to operate the choke without a helping hand down on the carbs. Mine is just a plastice lever and cap that screw into the bottom of the left handle bar assembly. I don't think my cable ever broke, just the thumb lever assembly.

    Why can't you operate your choke without the cable at all? Just push and pull the mechanism on the carbs with your hand?

    The brand new replacement parts for my thumb lever were cheap enough.
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

    2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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      #3
      The lever is still available from Suzuki as part number 58721-27503. I'd pick up a new choke cable (P/N 58410-49X02) and lever at the same time.

      Verify that the fuel enrichment bar slides smoothly across by hand. I've seen corrosion between the steel rod and the carb bodies which makes the assembly bind. Add a little WD or PB Blaster to the area where the rod slides through the carb body and move the assembly back and forth. That should loosen it up.

      1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
      1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
      1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

      Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.

      JTGS850GL aka Julius

      GS Resource Greetings

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        #4
        My handle broke, but due to aftermarket handlebar /gas tank interference. Heres my temporary fix.
        A quick pull and hold on the string while cranking the engine.20140212_192811.jpg
        Last edited by dorkburger; 07-28-2015, 12:59 PM. Reason: Grammar
        sigpic
        When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

        Glen
        -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
        -Rusty old scooter.
        Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
        https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
        https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/

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          #5
          I always just pull the shaft to the left and stick a quarter behind the little lever on cylinder 1's choke to hold it open.


          Life is too short to ride an L.

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            #6
            Don't know if this is the same part, however it may be worth a look....


            Error Page | eBay
            http://www.ebay.com/itm/suzuki-gs550-gs550L-throttle-control-and-choke-gs650GL-1982-1981-gs850gL-/281758973102?hash=item419a24bcae&vxp=mtr

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