1978 GS1000 wont start, sat 10 years

[Big T]

Okay so I figured out one reason it wont start, no spark from the plugs. So I am looking for a spark plug wire set but cant find anything but universals. Apparently they take an 8mm wire set? Can someone help me find a good set that isnt too expensive but not exactly cheap either?

What makes you think it's the wires that are the problem? Coils rarely fail

Does the bikes still have points? that's most likely the problem. Take off the small cover on the right end of the crank and tell us what's under there

[chuck hahn]

Good idea to refresh the wires anyway. Get that off the plate as a possible weak link.

[Big T]

Good idea to refresh the wires anyway. Get that off the plate as a possible weak link.

Why spend money on something that's working?

Besides, the wires are part of the coil

Take off the points cover
Turn on the key
Confirm that there is power to the points
remove #4 plug and lay it against the block
open the 1-4 points and see if the plug fires

besides

[matt8874]

Yes it does have points, I will try testing the points this weekend.

You say confirm there is power to the points, how do I do this? I have never messed with points before, let alone a bike at all. I have some car experience so Im familiar with a lot of stuff just not very knowledgeable with bike stuff, especially older.
And also how do I "open the 1-4 points"? And "see if the plug fires" refers to plug #4? (Which I assume is the right-most plug while sitting on the bike?)

[Big T]

Take a voltmeter and check the wire connection on the points, should be 12 V with the key on

Open with a small screwdriver
Yes, plug #4 is the right plug, use that one as it will be right in your face
The 1-4 points are on the left, you can confirm via the timing marks behind the hole in the points plate - it will show T1-4F with a mark by the T and the F

[allojohn]

I have never messed with points before, let alone a bike at all. I have some car experience so Im familiar with a lot of stuff just not very knowledgeable with bike stuff, especially older.

I refer you to post #3 in this thread - read the service manual, it's all in there. No-one is going to read it to you.

[matt8874]

Ok heres an update. My grandpa bought the wrong book, its for 1979 and newer, and also I could not find how to test the points. I took the cover off, and a condenser and tried to test it but my multimeter is junk. So I put it all back together and took the carbs off and apart to prepare to dip them. I have the o-ring sets on the way, should be a couple more days.

I also found out that the wire that goes into the coils (both wires for both coils precisely) have 0.0 voltage with the key on and on run. Could this be the wires just being too old and need replaced? Or possibly my junk multimeter not reading it.. Ill get another tomorrow.

[chuck hahn]

BigT..wire is 99 cents a foot and it takes 15 minutes to put new wires into a coil. Old wires may test well and then when you put them on the bike and start it they arch and short via small cracks in the broke down insulation to the engine itself...thats why.

[OldVet66]

'78 and '79 are essentially identical. No practical differences so that you can't use your Grandpa's manual but you can download the factory manual that covers the '78 here: http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

[allojohn]

'78 and '79 are essentially identical. No practical differences so you can't use your Grandpa's manual but you can download the factory manual that covers the '78 here: http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

I tried that, he's not listening.....

[matt8874]

Huge update

Gas tank derusted and sealed with por 15
New coils and wires
New spark plugs
New air filter
New battery
Properly gapped plugs and used feeler gauge to gap points
Carb dipped all small carb components and dipped carb in pinsol, replaced all orings and gaskets on carb

Problem now is that carb is not properly in sync
It's running lean, white smoke from pipes
The bike will only run with the air box off and your hand choking the intake

Suggestions?

[chuck hahn]

We are to assume there wasnt white smoke before?? Could it be the valve stems seals let some oil past as the bike sat a few days while you were doing the carbs?? Does the smoke go away after a few minutes or stay the same all the time???? Details help

.EDIT...where did you set the pilot screws and side mixture screws at??? Bottom at 3/4 to 7/8 ( I like mine a tad rich and at 7/8 ). Side mixtures screws at about 1 1/2 to start with and then fine tune ONLY WITH the mixture screws.

[matt8874]

Well I had it running for only a few minutes because it dies when you take your hand away from the intake. It has a white grayish smoke the whole time.

And I think the screws you mentioned are the 4 on the bottoms of the carbs that are at an angle? They have a spring inside? I was unsure where to set them so I put them all at 1.5 turns out from bottom. The leftmost carb cannot be adjusted, the screw is stuck and stripped. I think gramps was frustrated with that one lol

[chuck hahn]

That bike should have VM26 carbs. The BOTTOM screws at the back of the carb bowls are PILOT SCREWS....3/4 to 7/8 out and forget about them.

Side screws that set at a 45 degree angle on the side of the carb bodies are the MIXTURE screws...set at 1 1/2 to 2 out as the starting point. I have 4 1000s and ALL of them were lean and had the lean backfire ( popping sound ) symptom at 2 out. With the , I have found that around 1 1/2 out is about perfect with all my bikes. Not lean..but not getting black sooty spark plugs either. You fine tune the mixture using the side screws ONLY.

[chuck hahn]

As for the left most carb screw. Get a Dremel and a Dremel bit thats real fine at the point..like a real small burr tool. Go into the hole the screw is in and cut a new slot..being careful not to hit the threads in the carb body. Next heat the carb body up with a torch and drip some oil in the hole and let it soak in a while. heat it up again and gently start to get the screw to turn.

Once it moves a little, go in and out and work some more oil into the threads. Each time going in and out, try to get it out a little further each time. Be patient and work it out of the hole. Now you can take a hack saw blade and cut a new slot in the screw once its out.