Have you ever seen a float post repair like this?!

[Guest]

Hey Everyone-
This is my first post on this site, but the resources it has provided me have been invaluable, so thank you all so much!

Anyways, I'm in the midst of tearing down my carbs for a good ol' soaking and come across this interesting fix for a broken float post. Figured someone on here would appreciate the craftsmanship that went into it. Now, however, I'm a bit nervous to try and get the pin out of this one (and the 3 others at this point).

I get the concept of using a socket as an anvil to tap it out, but it seems like the post that broke wouldn't really benefit from an anvil? Thoughts anyone?

[cowboyup3371]

If the other side of the pin is peened then you'll support that side with the anvil. Go slow and easy but you won't need anything more than a scratch awl and the palm of your hand really to knock it out.

[robertbarr]

You can use a pair of miniature wire cutters between the pin head and the post. You're obviously not trying to cut the head or the pin; you're using the jaws as small wedges that pry evenly against the post. This keeps the force local; it won't apply any force to the opposite (wounded) post.

[OldVet66]

Nice repair, it has the advantage of being able to break loose and be re-epoxied without much fuss at all.

[Steve]

Then, when you finally get the pin(s) out, chuck then in a drill and file the little tabs off that are just under the head.

Those tabs are what provide the friction that makes them so hard to remove. Don't worry about the pins falling out when the carb is re-assembled, the float bowl will prevent the pin sliding far enough to come loose.

.

[Nessism]

You can still use the socket and pin punch method. The float pin fit in that broken post is just a slip fit, the other side has the interference fit. Someone obviously reversed the pin direction when installing the pin after making the repair. And speaking of repair, that one looks reasonably serviceable, but I'd replace that carb body anyway. Lots of members have spares so you may want to post in the WTB forum, and be specific about what exact carb you need.

[Crankthat]

I made a similar repair on a part in my landlords truck dash.
Used a bit made to clean gas/oxygen passages in torches.
Pretty crafty!

Do not think I would trust a repair like that on a float post though.

It is so badazz I give it 5 out of 5 Ichiban moto stickers.

[gustovh]

So what bike is it? I may have a spare carb body.

V

[1074cm3]

wow, that is some repair he did. thanks for posting the pic

[eil]

Actually, we did see a float post repair like that a couple months ago. This one looks a little more sturdy.

If it doesn't wobble at all, I personally would run with it for now and keep an eye peeled for a good deal on a spare carb body.

[Maxdpower]

So what bike is it? I may have a spare carb body.

V

Thanks for the kind offer! The bike is an 82 650G.

And also, thank you all for the advice/thoughts on the matter. it is very sturdy, but I'll be curious to see if it'll hold up after a nice dip (assuming there is also epoxy in the middle...)

[Maxdpower]

Also, and I'm sure this is the dumbest question I've ever asked, but I have to dip each carb/parts separately, right? I have the gallon sized bucket so more than one would fit at a time and I cant bear the thought of having to way 4 days to get these things back together!!!

[Nessism]

I never dip for 24 hours, in fact I dip the minimum about of time possible to get the inside clean.

[Maxdpower]

I never dip for 24 hours, in fact I dip the minimum about of time possible to get the inside clean.

Okay, thanks. I was hoping to make the outsides shiny and new looking again, but I'm not sure if any amount of time will bring them there!

[Nessism]

Okay, thanks. I was hoping to make the outsides shiny and new looking again, but I'm not sure if any amount of time will bring them there!

If you leave them in the sauce too long sometimes they turn dark. If you want them bright and shiny try masking and then soda blasting the bodies.