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    Bike starts hard, then runs fine

    I have the 650E Suzuki. Went through carbs, did much updating to the bike after I got it. Haven't ridden it much since spring and now it takes about a 1/2 shot of starting fluid to get it rolling, them runs nice after that. If i keep riding it usually starts fine, if I leave it for a couple weeks then back to the starting fluid. Gramps warns against using the fluid to get it going. Is the ethanol gas mucking up the carbs or what?

    #2
    Yes, the gas is that bad
    and, Gramps is right, no more ether
    Get some Seafoam in the gas and find some ethanol free (is that legal in Iowa?) gas if you can

    The other reason for hard starting is tight valves. Are they adjusted to spec?
    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
    2007 DRz 400S
    1999 ATK 490ES
    1994 DR 350SES

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      #3
      Originally posted by Big T View Post
      Yes, the gas is that bad
      and, Gramps is right, no more ether
      Get some Seafoam in the gas and find some ethanol free (is that legal in Iowa?) gas if you can

      The other reason for hard starting is tight valves. Are they adjusted to spec?
      Did the valves over the winter, it was a fun experience. Iowa just sells gas with ethanol. Could go across the border if need be but will just adding the sseafoam be enough?

      Comment


        #4
        Have the valves been adjusted..if not do them. Hard starting is a symptom of out of spec valve clearances.

        Secondly..fuel evaporates from the bowls after setting a while so you have to us the PRIme feature. Set the petcock lever so its facing the back of the bike and let it set about 30 seconds or so to refill the bowls. Choke ( without twisting the throttle grip ) and switch the petcock back to the ON position once it starts..

        Then when shes running dump in about 1/4 can of Seafoam or Berrymans fuel system cleaner and ride the bike 20 miles or so to work the cleaner thru. Letting carbs set without draining the bowls makes the gas gunk up and foul the holes in the jets. If the gunk isnt real bad Seafoam and cleaners "can..maybe" do the job short of having to pull and redip the carbs. In fact, a dose of cleaner once during the summer riding isnt a bad idea just to freshen things a bit. I will sometimes give my bikes a shot just for GP.
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

        Comment


          #5
          My 750 does that if I leave it for a few weeks. I just do like Chuck says switching it to prime and it starts right up.....
          Old age and treachery will beat youth and skill every time
          Originally Posted by Schweisshund I mean, sure, guns were used in some of these mass shootings, but not all of them
          1983 GS 750

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            #6
            this is why I use clear fuel line. If it has been a bit since I have hopped on, I look at the line and see if there is any fuel in the line, if not, I switch to prime. if there is, I just hit the go button

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              #7
              And, ... if using PRIme doesn't do the job, adjust your valves.

              .
              sigpic
              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
              Family Portrait
              Siblings and Spouses
              Mom's first ride
              Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
              (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Steve View Post
                And, ... if using PRIme doesn't do the job, adjust your valves.

                .
                I did use prime for at least a couple of minute and valve were adjusted less than a year ago, how often do they need adjusted? Only been 400-500 miles

                Intial I though bad fuel tap but it's bought new suzuki and less than a year old also

                Comment


                  #9
                  That few miles after an adjustment should not be the problem..unless they were done wrong. Not saying you goofed anything..just saying that is a possibility. Secondly. have you done a good carb sync with the gauges to be sure they are dialed in ??? Is there an added on inline fuel filter..if so get rid of it. Got a good battery and have you checked for voltage drop off at the coils where they plug into the harness?? Excessive voltage drop off will cause the coils to not fire or get hesitant to fire.

                  Basically stick the POS lead from the multi meter into the sleeve of the coils power wire off the harness and ground goes to the engine or any good frame ground point.....crank. Note how low the voltage drops as you hit the button. Have you checked the harness grounding points to be sure they are clean???

                  Correct plugs and gapped right????
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    do not use SEAFOAM! it is a product that causes more trouble than it cures. and those who use it,,,, well good for them.

                    If ever you are in doubt~re-check the 3 basics; compression/mechanical - timed ignition/electrical - fuel mixture / gas

                    Check the battery voltage drop as you use the electric starter, if it runs good after is gets warm - this points away from anything electrical except battery load capacity.

                    it is good that a bike will not start when cool unless you use the enrichener - but enrichener will not work unless it too is clean, and the fuel level is right -every fuel circuit has an air bleed as well as fuel delivery all need to be clean = after there is heat energy in the engine and everything goes back to fine - supports there is a lean condition -

                    compression is the easy one and I'm sure all you need to do is put your finger over the spark plug hole to get an idea - these things will run with 60 psi . camchain tensioner can cause what seems to be a valve problem - also heat helps cover this problem.

                    my guess is you have a simple tuning detail to correct- , but just so you know.... I keep a can of ether in my 80cc 2 stroke Honda scooter - I can live with a squirt of magic and use the kick starter because my battery won't fire it up until the engine is hot - then it works fine - but there IS NO PROBLEM I have it tuned this way - My enrichener (choke) is disabled , Sooo - little extra spray to richen it up when it is cold and ka-pow!
                    SUZUKI , There is no substitute

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                      #11
                      I guess I need to review basics and get my multmeter out and do some tests. When I had it up and gong this spring you could just barely touch the start button and it fired instantly but that was with fresh gas, new batt, ect. also seem to be having gaps in airbot boots on the middle two which probably is not helping

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Make sure the brass choke rod and jet in the float bowls are clear.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                          Make sure the brass choke rod and jet in the float bowls are clear.
                          Right. This sounds like a clogged starter circuit or a fuel level problem. There's a Mikuni BS32SS manual on BassCliff's web site which has some great info on where all the circuits are in your carburetors and how the float level should be measured.

                          Like chef said make sure your starter tube is clean (both the tiny hole in the tip and the larger air hole near the base) and that the starter jet pressed into the bowl is also clean. There is also a channel cut out in the bowl to supply air to this circuit. Make sure your bowl gasket doesn't plug up this channel.

                          Fuel level measurement is on pg 14-38 of the manual.



                          Looks like his storage link is down so you will need to look here:

                          Last edited by DimitriT; 10-23-2015, 11:22 AM.

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