Newbie needs help - stall/sputter shifting into first

[allojohn]

I think you have CV carbs, if so here's the tutorial from Cliff.

Edit: you beat me to the punch there Jason!

[Gs425FridayHarbor]

Both carbs and valve clearances need to be done before you move on. You can do the valves while the carbs are soaking or while you're waiting on parts, etc. Might as well do them both while you've got it apart.

You'll likely need a new cylinder head cover gasket along with some shims when you do the valve clearances. I would wait on doing a compression test until you do the valves, as it will change your numbers.

I think you have CV carbs (the top of the carbs is held on by 4 screws right?) that link should be fine; you will just have 2 carbs instead of 4. Check out this video also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95nlrP-yn2I
also see http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/carb_sync_notes.html

Thanks Jason, and John, I'm going to gear up to tackle the carbs and valves this month. I'm going to keep reading as much as I can before pulling the trigger but hope to start soon. I have basic tools but nothing fancy or specialized at this point. Any idea what it costs to make it through projects like these (understanding that the answer will probably depend upon conditions), but just wondering generally. Also what's the best place to find parts for a '79 Suzuki GS425?

I do have CV carbs so I will start with the links you refer to and the GS1000 guide and get going. Thanks again to you both for all your help, I really appreciate it.

Thanks
jamie

[CrazyCloud]

Tools/misc:
You will need metric sockets & a ratchet (or wrenches) of course & a set of good screwdrivers/bits (JIS is nice, but not a must). Test carefully to see which of the bits fits the fastener best each time.
You can do valves the using big zip ties as an improvised tool instead of the specialty tool that costs $15-20, see http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...ol_zip_tie.pdf
Small tub of good quality grease on hand for packing bearings, holding things in place, coating gaskets, etc.
A hand impact tool comes in really handy, almost a must have. Something along these lines http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Ha...FYD5XEA6CVA1HC
It is really, really nice to have a torque wrench, but not a downright necessity. I have this one and like it a lot http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8...=torque+wrench.

Parts:
Shop around for parts. I like Parts Outlaw a lot for things that I want new/OEM. Prices usually very competitive and use the code 'BANG' at checkout and shipping is (normally) greatly reduced. There are some good comparison threads for the different vendors. Brake parts and all cables I would go with OEM.
E-bay--Some parts are not available new any longer from Suzuki, folks with spare OEM stuff often sell it cheaper on ebay. Also, in many instances a used part is perfectly functional and will save significant $$. Use the 'also fits' function of the online parts fiche you like to find out what other models and years used the part you are looking for to broaden your search on e-bay.

For your current job (carbs and valves) you can likely get shims dirt cheap using the 'shim club' here http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...alve-Shim-Club
The rest you will have to shop around,price it out, add it up. To get you started:
head cover gasket ~$15-20?
Carb o-rings + intake boot o-rings from cycleorings.com highly recommended ~$25?
Carb gaskets?? guesstimate under $20 (I know nothing about cv's)
Berrymans carb dip ~$20
So ballpark guess is under $100 in parts + whatever you need for tools.

[60ratrod]

the oily valve, the bell shaped thingy, is likely from a dried out valve guide seal. nothing to really worry about for the time being until you get this thing dialed in. I'm on the main land in mt Vernon if you're ever in the area. also pro-tip, if you ever need to lay the bike up for an extended amount of time, add fuel stabilizer. the alchohol in modern fuels absorbs the moisture from the air in our neck of the woods and turns into gel that plugs everything that you're cleaning now, or will be cleaning. and listen to what these guys have to say, get the stuff done now so you don't have to get antsy when our short season pops up. for removing what looks like a Philips screw, which is really a JIS screw, I've found the Philips #2 bits in the multi-bit driver kits work really well. if you start stripping out the head of the screw, stop! grab a 1/4" drive ratchet and more than likely the 1/4" socket, or which ever the bit fits snuggly in, and put the bit in and give the screw just a hair of a turn tighter, and I mean just a hair, and then see if it will start backing out while applying plenty of pressure. I've gotten a lot of the JIS screws off my gs650g out that way.

[tkent02]

Don't worry about checking the compression. It means nothing until you have the valve clearances adjusted, and it always goes up in the first thousand or so miles of riding.

[Gs425FridayHarbor]

Thanks Ratrod. Glad to know someone on the forum is local. I'm in Mt Vernon a bit - actually when I got the bike shipped out (I bought it when I was 20, 10 years ago in VT and had it shipped on a haul bikes special) I had Rob at Westedge cycles in Anacortes give it a look and he replaced batteries, changed all fluids, added stabilizer, changed plugs, and told me it was good to go but to watch the brakes because they were seized. He seemed like a good guy.)

I have a good set of tools from my father in law who's a longtime Harley rider in New Hampshire, but still have a few more things to get per the recommendations on this thread. I'm going to get geared up this week and dive into carbs next weekend so I can get out in that end of February sunshine).

thanks for the help.

[Gs425FridayHarbor]

This is awesome and super helpful. Thanks again for all the help.

[Who Dat?]

I had Rob at Westedge cycles in Anacortes give it a look ... and told me it was good to go but to watch the brakes because they were seized. He seemed like a good guy.

He may seem like a good guy, but I would not trust ANYONE that told me a bike was "good to go", but had bad brakes.

[Gs425FridayHarbor]

Update

This is awesome and super helpful. Thanks again for all the help.

Hi All,

i got the carbs out after fighting with the airbox for a bit and am ready to get into a rebuild this weekend. I have orings (thanks cycle orings!) but am wondering what grease I should buy to use on them from NAPA auto parts. I found an old thread with a defunct photo of what the longtime members here prefer to use, but couldn't pull it up. I take it I should go with some kind of silicone grease but any specific recommendations are much appreciated.

Also, what is the recommended dip time? The carbs look pretty clean but I haven't opened them up yet, so we will see.

Finally, I noticed that one of my two throttle cables (the rear one mounted towards the seat) only had one lock nut under the mount. The front throttle cable had two lock nuts (one above and below) the mount. Should there be two lock nuts on both?

Thanks as as always for all the help and this great website!

jamie
79 gs425 "the sentimental Suzuki"