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    #31
    I soaked mine for at least a day. Yes they were swollen to almost twice the size. But letting them air dry overnight returned them normal size. I have soaked items for days and once removed and allowed to air dry, in every instance they returned to their original size and fit perfectly.

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      #32
      Interesting stuff. Boots got way too big after forgetting them a couple days, now a month later they look about the right size and very soft and supple. Did an XL 500 boot, didn't really do much for it. Tried a spare CV carburetor diaphragm, it rolled up like a flower in a couple hours. Two days later it's the right shape again. Tried some old hardened O rings, they got softer but still crumbled. They were really hard though. My fingers smell funny but I'm used to that.
      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

      Life is too short to ride an L.

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        #33
        It does work well if you're not in a hurry... oh and your boots smell like wintergreen for a few weeks until you get them really aired out.

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          #34
          Great stuff, but wear gloves, it is poisonous. Keep it out of the reach of children.
          Last edited by OldVet66; 04-01-2016, 09:41 AM.
          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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            #35
            Well I did the APE (k&n style) filter pods. I didnt want to submerge them so I did them in a shallow pan with about 1/2 inch of the solution. I stood the pods on the rubber end. (The carb end) I didn't want the rubber to over expand where it is bound to the filter media and mesh covering. I didn't want it to separate. It worked good.
            The flange got nice and soft and it didn't over absorb higher up where the rubber is formed to the filter mesh.
            I also did some carb overflow lines and the crankcase vent hose and the round gasket for the fuel sending unit.
            I actually used Acetone by mistake instead of Xylene. It didn't seem to hurt but I will use the Xylene next time to see if there is any difference.
            I brought the parts inside (in the basement where i an rebuilding the bike) after they were done. I rinsed them in the utility tub and put them on a shelf. 2 weeks later my basement still smells good and fresh.
            That is some potent stuff!

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              #36
              I have noticed the same thing. it will not leech or soak up above the level of the mixture. So you do have a lot of control over what gets treated.

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                #37
                Trying it on eight of the little plugs that cover the pilot jet on CV carbs..... Hard as rocks.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

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                  #38
                  Check them very frequently!!! I did some and let them go too long and they turned into gummy bears and were useless at that point.
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                    Trying it on eight of the little plugs that cover the pilot jet on CV carbs..... Hard as rocks.
                    I did a set of 4. Ya know how the top flange of the plug gets all mushroomed out and cracked from the bowl pressing on it?....yeah well when I pulled the plugs out of the solution, the main plug that goes into the pilot jet hole was soft, but the upper mushroomed out shoulder just crumbled off when I squeezed it.
                    It may work on pilot jet plugs that are still structurally solid and not overly mushroomed and cracked.

                    Btw, the best deal I could find on e bay was 16oz for 27$....but 32oz was only 31$ so I got the 32oz.

                    I guess I'm good for life. Haha

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by alke46 View Post
                      I need to correct this. It is 30% wintergreen oil to 70% xylene. I agee totally with jdvorchak, re-use it many times over.
                      Can I use rubbing alcohol or acetone instead of xylene? I have both on hand and didn't want to spring for a jug of xylene. Is the mixture still the same?
                      1982 - GS450T
                      Maine

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                        #41
                        Not sure, acetone completely dissolves some plastics, not sure what it will do to rubber parts but almost nothing is pure rubber anymore. Try it on some really old and really dead parts first?
                        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                        Life is too short to ride an L.

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                          #42
                          All we can say for sure is that xylene and winter green oil works on carb air box boots. I did try it on the o-ring gasket that goes between the petcock and fuel tank and it worked there as well. You mileage may vary and use caution on other parts. I want to say again. After a couple of days of soaking the parts do swell to about twice their size. They are very soft and mushy feeling when you first take them out of the solution. Leave them on a paper towel or newspaper to air dry overnight. They will shrink back to their normal size and loose the mushiness and feel like new parts. I have used this solution on Suzuki and Kawasaki boots with good results. Keep the solution in a sealed glass container and so far after reviving 8 boots and after 4 or 5 months the solution is still good.

                          Any more that the above and you're on your own. My guess is that any solvent that doesn't leave a residue and is known to not eat rubber would probably work. Don't come complaining if your cocktail eats your boots. You are warned.

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                            #43
                            Oh forgot to mention that I had about a 6 inch piece of rock hard fuel line that I was going to throw away. I soaked it for a couple of days and it felt good. I did NOT re-install it on a bike. I'm using it on my aux fuel tank for carb sync etc. When I need a 1/4 to 5/16 fuel line. Aux tank has 1/4 inch line. Then I have a brass 1/4 to 5/16 fitting for bikes that require 5/16. So far after two carb syncs the fuel line is still good.

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