idle is all out of whack.

[Guest]

this post might jump around a bit, so i apologize for that in advance.
i have a 1982 gs850 glz, that i cant seem to get to idle right. when i first start it up cold, it usually takes a while for it to run consistently, meaning if i were to try to take off right away, it would bog down and die. but, if i wait for a little while, let it warm up a little, it then runs fine. but then theres the other issue where the idle wont stay at a consistent spot, and is hard to gauge because i keep having to adjust the choke just to keep it from dying. luckily enough, once its been running for a while, and im able to turn off the choke, it usually idles somewhere in the 1.5-2 range.
a couple nights ago was the first time i took it out after winter, rode around for several miles without ever getting stuck. but i did have an issue where every few stops, i would notice that as i down shifted into 1, the idle would drop, and ultimately die, so i then had to keep revving when i was coming to a stop in order to keep it from dying. usually after a few decent revs, the idle would pop back up, and be just fine until the next stop.
im fairly certain that the main issue here is resulting from something with the carbs, but im not quite sure where to start, and i appreciate any bit of input you might have to offer.

additional information:
i have owned the bike for almost 2 years and had it running for the first two summers.
i have not yet gotten the carbs synced (on my to do list) in the time that ive owned it.
the battery is 2 years old, and wasn't properly tended this past winter.
there is a slight kink in the right side muffler caused by an accident i had the summer after i got. it isn't bad, but it might be causing too much back pressure.
im looking at buying a couple new clip on mufflers off of dime city cycles to replace those, so i was planning to wait on getting the carbs professionally synced until after then.

[nejeff]

this post might jump around a bit, so i apologize for that in advance.
i have a 1982 gs850 glz, that i cant seem to get to idle right. when i first start it up cold, it usually takes a while for it to run consistently, meaning if i were to try to take off right away, it would bog down and die. but, if i wait for a little while, let it warm up a little, it then runs fine. but then theres the other issue where the idle wont stay at a consistent spot, and is hard to gauge because i keep having to adjust the choke just to keep it from dying. luckily enough, once its been running for a while, and im able to turn off the choke, it usually idles somewhere in the 1.5-2 range.
a couple nights ago was the first time i took it out after winter, rode around for several miles without ever getting stuck. but i did have an issue where every few stops, i would notice that as i down shifted into 1, the idle would drop, and ultimately die, so i then had to keep revving when i was coming to a stop in order to keep it from dying. usually after a few decent revs, the idle would pop back up, and be just fine until the next stop.
im fairly certain that the main issue here is resulting from something with the carbs, but im not quite sure where to start, and i appreciate any bit of input you might have to offer.

additional information:
i have owned the bike for almost 2 years and had it running for the first two summers.
i have not yet gotten the carbs synced (on my to do list) in the time that ive owned it.
the battery is 2 years old, and wasn't properly tended this past winter.
there is a slight kink in the right side muffler caused by an accident i had the summer after i got. it isn't bad, but it might be causing too much back pressure.
im looking at buying a couple new clip on mufflers off of dime city cycles to replace those, so i was planning to wait on getting the carbs professionally synced until after then.

Could be alot of things. I always suspect worn carb boots or boot o-rings when I hear the idle is erratic ( possible vacuum leakage). Probably need to rebuild carbs as well if you haven't done so and definitely sync them

[azr]

You need to do a valve job, then synch your carbs. I doubt the kink in the muffler is effecting things, not if it's not that bad. The cold starting issues's you describe are likely from your valves needing adjustment, and you have to synch the carbs anytime you adjust the valves. See how the carbs feel after that, no sense in doing maintenance out of order.

[mwalter2747]

the carbs were rebuilt the summer i got it. it had to be done in order to get it to run. so the gasket, o rings, and jets are less than 2 years old. i also inspected the boots a few days ago while i was replacing the valve cover gasket and didnt find any tears or leaks. there was a tear in one that i patched with some high heat silicon, but it seems to be holding fine.

[60ratrod]

unless you added some sort of fuel stabilizer for the winter, a full strip and dip on the carbs as per the tutorial is probably in order, along with a bench sync and then vacuum sync. while the carbs are off and soaking, that would be the perfect time to check the valve clearances and replace the shims as needed and inspecting the carb boots and o-rings. the O-rings are more than likely toast, since the current fuels are hard on them. so a new set of rings for the carbs could be in order too.

[almarconi]

The intake boot o-rings and carb kits are available from Robert Barr (forum member) http://www.cycleorings.com
Everyone else's comments are correct, carbs need to be cleaned, valves adjusted..etc. Just need to do some basic maintenance.
Your idle is a bit high, check the service manual but I'm thinking about 1k rpm is about right for that engine.

[barnbiketom]

there was a tear in one that i patched with some high heat silicon, but it seems to be holding fine.