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Getting tuned in on a GS450

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    Getting tuned in on a GS450

    Hi all, firstly thanks to everyone for all the help you've been on the forum. I've finally got the rusted out bike I bought for $200 running. I'm hoping for some help on getting the carbs just right. I have the Mac 2-1 exhaust, and currently have the no-name EMGO lookalike filters that the PO included with the bike. I currently have 137.5 mains and 40 pilot jets in. I haven't done anything to the needles yet. The bike is still giving the real occasional backfire (through carbs), but its pretty uncommon now, maybe once on my two mile ride. On a straightaway, I opened the throttle up a bit, and the bike kindof studdered and rocked a bit while slowly accelerating. Also, when I pulled in the driveway, I shut the bike off, and when I turned it back on, there was a massive backfire out of the exhaust, then it started, idled, and ran just fine. The carb boots and O rings are all new, the carb bowl gaskets and O rings are all new as well. I set the float height, though I can't remember what it was set to off the top of my head.

    How do I go about syncing the carbs and deciding what to do to the needles?
    Would K&N filters greatly outperform the no names? If so, I want to buy and swap before I spent a lot of time getting the carbs set properly.

    Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by Guest; 04-19-2016, 08:18 PM.

    #2
    Step one for tuning anything is to lose those crappy Emgo Sand Sifters. They don't filter much at all, don't flow much air, and have a terrible shape inside which makes tuning difficult or impossible, the air has to go around a square corner to make it into the carb. Air doesn't like going around square corners. If you're going to use pads use K&N or Ape pods, they work well.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
      Step one for tuning anything is to lose those crappy Emgo Sand Sifters. They don't filter much at all, don't flow much air, and have a terrible shape inside which makes tuning difficult or impossible, the air has to go around a square corner to make it into the carb. Air doesn't like going around square corners. If you're going to use pads use K&N or Ape pods, they work well.
      Okay, I figured those filters weren't any good but I wanted a second opinion before I dropped ~$90 on new ones. The K&N rc-1822 are the ones I was looking at, and those appear to have a hard corner for the air to navigate as well. Is there a better K&N pod that members here prefer?

      Link to aforementioned filters:

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        #4
        Yes, RC-1822 is what I used on my GS450--work great.

        If you want to save a little money you can go with the RU-1822 (doesn't have the chrome end caps):
        1982 Suzuki GS450TZ
        1982 Suzuki GS1100EZ

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          #5
          I'm thinking you might need mains at 145, pilot at 45 to start
          I bought the Emgo 2 gage vacuum set and I've used it to balance the carbs on my 400 and 550 so far. I'll set the 450 tomorrow if I can get the old girl to fire (it's been at least 11 years). Easy to use/set. Hard to get to the adjusters !
          Balance has made a huge difference in performance, especially starting, low and mid rpm.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by smilinbrad View Post
            I'm thinking you might need mains at 145, pilot at 45 to start
            I bought the Emgo 2 gage vacuum set and I've used it to balance the carbs on my 400 and 550 so far. I'll set the 450 tomorrow if I can get the old girl to fire (it's been at least 11 years). Easy to use/set. Hard to get to the adjusters !
            Balance has made a huge difference in performance, especially starting, low and mid rpm.

            Sounds good. Is this with K&N filters, or EMGO?

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              #7
              K&N's will be here tomorrow

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                #8
                Excellent, the difference is inside, good pods have a velocity stack shape inside, crappy ones don't. On twins you can get close on the synch by disconnecting one spark plug at a time and adjusting the throttles so they drop about the same RPM. Do it at a few different idle RPMs.

                Probably not as exact as using the proper tools but you can get it close enough to run pretty well.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

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                  #9
                  Went for a ride with the new pods, it certainly feels better. It still surges a bit when i give it throttle, and it still tends to rev up on its own when I pull the clutch in, but those conditions are a hell of a lot better than they were with the Moxi's. Also, there's both a whistling and a clicking sound coming from the engine. I'm thinking exhaust leak and chain or valve clatter?

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