Dynojet advice

[Carter Turk]

Nice you got it sorted.

[posplayr]

With K&Ns installed I went back to DynoJet basic settings and also checked the adjustment screws and behold, all is well now. Why, because the adjustment screws for 1 and 2 were way out. I'm the only one who has touched the bike so it had to be me but I sure don't remember opening them up like that. Especially without matching them all up. Another lesson.

Hope you bumped up the Pilot jets to 47.5

[limeex2]

Might try the Ape brand, apparently look alike K&N's and maybe just as good. Never used them personally, supposedly a bit cheaper.

If you go back to a stock airbox, you'll loose the stage-3, unless it came with stage one. So more carb fussing either way and what if

all the carb boots are stiff and shrunken, be more then a set of decent pods.

I am also on a forum for ZRX1200's. Those guys use Ape brand pods all the time with good results. Check the fuel/float level very carefully and you can also move it around and get different results also.

[glib]

Hope you bumped up the Pilot jets to 47.5

I have not changed the pilot jets. In the DJ instructions for kit #3133, they reference their pilot jet DH160 to be used to lean out the bottom end if you are experiencing a loss of fuel mileage or the bike starts without the choke. It does not start without the choke but it is close. I don't have any time on the bike to check the mileage yet. I do have the DH160s. Would they be similar to the 47.5s?

[posplayr]

I have not changed the pilot jets. In the DJ instructions for kit #3133, they reference their pilot jet DH160 to be used to lean out the bottom end if you are experiencing a loss of fuel mileage or the bike starts without the choke. It does not start without the choke but it is close. I don't have any time on the bike to check the mileage yet. I do have the DH160s. Would they be similar to the 47.5s?

The DJ instructions are not exactly correct. If you have pods and 4:1 you need to change the pilot jets and no that is not an air jet. If you bike is bone stock other than the pods/ipe then you could start with the DJ132 (equivalent to Mikuni 122.5) but I think Bill (Chef1366) generally starts with the DJ138(Mikuni 127.5) if anything has been done to the motor (like cams).

[glib]

The DJ instructions are not exactly correct. If you have pods and 4:1 you need to change the pilot jets and no that is not an air jet. If you bike is bone stock other than the pods/ipe then you could start with the DJ132 (equivalent to Mikuni 122.5) but I think Bill (Chef1366) generally starts with the DJ138(Mikuni 127.5) if anything has been done to the motor (like cams).

OK well I'll have to acquire the other jets because all I have are the DJ160s. Also I don't know what has been done to the motor but the compression is notably higher that my other bikes.

Also I'm going to post another question for you over on electrical.

[posplayr]

OK well I'll have to acquire the other jets because all I have are the DJ160s. Also I don't know what has been done to the motor but the compression is notably higher that my other bikes.

Also I'm going to post another question for you over on electrical.

You absolutely need the DJ needles because the taper of the needle is suited to the 4:1 scavenging v.s. 4:2 (with little). Based on experience by several 1100 owners (including me) you have to change the stock 45 to 47.5 Pilot jets.

The DJ138 is safe but could be a little rich. You should start in the middle on the needle and go from there. I don't recall the air jet. It doesn't make much difference or is the last thing you would do if at all.

I assume everything else has been gone through (carbs clean, balance carbs, float height, valves adjust and electrical voltage to the coils, timing).

You know how to tune CV's?

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

Note Rapid Ray also sell Factory pro needles that work but are very different to the DJ needles as they change the main significantly. Stick with DJ and ask Check 1366 if you are having problems he probably jets a set of 1100 carbs at least once per month month in month out.

[glib]

You absolutely need the DJ needles because the taper of the needle is suited to the 4:1 scavenging v.s. 4:2 (with little). Based on experience by several 1100 owners (including me) you have to change the stock 45 to 47.5 Pilot jets.

The DJ138 is safe but could be a little rich. You should start in the middle on the needle and go from there. I don't recall the air jet. It doesn't make much difference or is the last thing you would do if at all.

I assume everything else has been gone through (carbs clean, balance carbs, float height, valves adjust and electrical voltage to the coils, timing).

You know how to tune CV's?

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tunin...m_engines.html

Great link! Thanks. I do have the DJ needles installed. I'll do the tests as described as soon as I get the chance and try the DJ160s too.