Petcock Rebuild Kits?

[mmattockx]

The bike is an 82 1100E. It has been stored for a number of years and I am now getting it back on the road. The petcock had always been fine when I was riding it regularly but now it's dripping a bit. I suspect the seals in it dried out with the tank drained and now are not working.

Where are people getting rebuild kits these days? How about the gasket between the petcock and the tank?


Thanks,
Mark

[Nessism]

Suzuki still sells parts. Parts Outlaw has good prices if you want to order online. Best to pony up for a new petcock vs. rebuilding since Suzuki does not sell internal petcock parts, and aftermarket petcock parts like those from K&L are garbage.

[JTGS850GL]

Don't even bother trying to do the rebuild. Most of the time it doesn't work and you'll end up buying a new petcock anyway.

[chuck hahn]

50/50 chance with the kits. Get OEM new.

[JJ]

Agreed. I have rebuilt petcocks before with very little success. I'd rather pony up the $60 or so for a new one and have it last another 30 years.

[mmattockx]

Damn, I guess that settles it. I will see what the local stealer wants for the assembly.


Mark

[gustovh]

I have rebuilt 3 petcocks with no problems, why are the kits garbage?

V

[tkent02]

Sometimes the parts fit, sometimes they don't fit at all.

[Gorminrider]

The bike is an 82 1100E. It has been stored for a number of years and I am now getting it back on the road. The petcock had always been fine when I was riding it regularly but now it's dripping a bit. I suspect the seals in it dried out with the tank drained and now are not working.

Where are people getting rebuild kits these days? How about the gasket between the petcock and the tank?


Thanks,
Mark

if I were buying a kit, I would probably try georgefix, based on my experience for other rubber parts and seals
SUZUKI - georgefixs Store
Maybe main difficulty is in being sure you have the right kit for the various petcocks Suzuki was using....

But first off, if your petcock is dripping, that doesn't mean you need all the parts...sometimes drips fix themselves with an optimistic drop of 3/1 into a loosened assembly and gentle working so as not to tear any driedup corrosion-impregnated material (oxide powder is sharp and digs itself into softer nylon ?rubber?viton?) or even a dissassembly if ez doesn't work- but don't bend the tiny bits or fiddle with the spring etc.)
perhaps it's just an o-ring from a local store you need...fingers crossed!

[gustovh]

Two of the 3 just needed the main shut off O ring and seat addressed, the third the diaphragm was shot and the kit fixed that. To address the O ring seats I had to make a mandrel with the same angle as the seat, a touch of rubbing compound and a drill. re-seated the seat smooth, new O ring and game over.

Just changing the O ring and not addressing the seat, usually does not fix the problem.

V

[mmattockx]

How does the petcock come apart? I can live with it for now while the mechanical stuff is all being sorted and then will have time to pull it apart when I am painting everything.


Mark

[Gorminrider]

depends which it is, but the most common ones- To get in via the tap (per your drip) you see the top plate that has the printing on it under the tap itself? That plate is bent 'round the sides of the assembly and clips to the alloy body- you just pop off the clips and the tap should pull out. There is a little brass round spring under the tap itself if you are pulling the tap out ...be careful not to lose it- try to note it's orientation and which side is inward/outward- for petcocks that actually have a Prime position(three-way tap), this little doohickey is the thing that disables the vacuum function in PRIME position.

The vacuum function is accessed through the back. 4 screws....Note the direction of the vacuum nipple so you can put casings together correctly again.... 4 screws. then Note the order of the gasket that accompanies the vacuum diaphrgm between casings and finally-the little part to watch for is the spring.