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Sputtering at Mid range

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    Sputtering at Mid range

    Have a '77 750 that I did a top end rebuild on this past winter. I'm running straight pipes and pods on it. It idles like a dream and does well in the higher RPMs but if I'm running about half throttle it sputters. I can't tell if it's rich or lean or what my mains are. I'd have to guess PO put in at least 107.5 or 110 for the pods. I put on the straight pipes. I raised the needles two notches while troubleshooting earlier which proved to be a different problem. Any guesses on what it could be? I'm about ready to take it to the shop because all I want to do is ride instead of working on it...

    #2
    You need to do plug chops and find out whether it's rich or lean

    I'm thinking you're still too lean at 110 mains, 117.5 or 120 should be more in the ball park
    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
    2007 DRz 400S
    1999 ATK 490ES
    1994 DR 350SES

    Comment


      #3
      Why can't you tell if it's lean or rich?? Pull the plugs. Why aren't you exactly sure what is in the carbs? You have to be for what you're trying to do. Pull the carbs.
      Rob
      1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
      Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

      Comment


        #4
        Good luck taking it to a shop. Most shops have a "ten year rule" where anything older than ten years old doesn't get through the door.

        Add in the fact that a shop is under scrutiny to keep things somewhat legal, your straight pipes and pods won't be looked on very favorably.

        They are also not looked on favorably by several of us on the forum, but that's another discussion that I won't get into here.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by R3lease1t View Post
          I'd have to guess PO put in at least 107.5 or 110 for the pods.
          I've seen POs put in jets 10 sizes too big and also 10 sizes too small. On the same engine. Take it apart and look, it only takes about ten minutes.
          Thinking any PO did something right is ludicrous. They don't go there.


          Life is too short to ride an L.

          Comment


            #6
            Geez, if you have that old of bike, you need to find a shop that will do their best for you. Mine is willing to comb ebay or otherwise to find my parts. The dealer won't look at my bike but damn, a real shop can tune carbs whatever you bring. Some folks don't like pipes and pods but....pffft. You are in for an education if you do it yourself, and I can see you don't want that. $250 is what the shop I use charges to carb tune with dyno, just for your reference.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by azr View Post
              Why can't you tell if it's lean or rich?? Pull the plugs. Why aren't you exactly sure what is in the carbs? You have to be for what you're trying to do. Pull the carbs.
              I have pulled the carbs and tried to read the numbers on the jets but can't tell what they are.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Big T View Post
                You need to do plug chops and find out whether it's rich or lean

                I'm thinking you're still too lean at 110 mains, 117.5 or 120 should be more in the ball park
                I tried 117.5 with centered needles and it seemed too rich. Then again that was when I was having timing issues. I could try putting them back in and seeing if that changes anything.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by phydeauxmutt View Post
                  Good luck taking it to a shop. Most shops have a "ten year rule" where anything older than ten years old doesn't get through the door.

                  Add in the fact that a shop is under scrutiny to keep things somewhat legal, your straight pipes and pods won't be looked on very favorably.

                  They are also not looked on favorably by several of us on the forum, but that's another discussion that I won't get into here.
                  The local college has a motorcycle tech program that takes in bike from the community and all you have to do is pay for parts. The problem is normally there is a waiting list and they take forever to get the bike back to you.

                  And yes, I am aware of how a lot of people on the forum feel about anything but stock. I agree, best not to discuss.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    PM sent.......
                    Larry

                    '79 GS 1000E
                    '93 Honda ST 1100 SOLD-- now residing in Arizona.
                    '18 Triumph Tiger 800 (gone too soon)
                    '19 Triumph Tiger 800 Christmas 2018 to me from me.
                    '01 BMW R1100RL project purchased from a friend, now for sale.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by R3lease1t View Post
                      I have pulled the carbs and tried to read the numbers on the jets but can't tell what they are.
                      Get a magnifying glass and confirm what you have in there
                      Harbor Freight has some
                      1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                      1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                      1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                      1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                      1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                      1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                      2007 DRz 400S
                      1999 ATK 490ES
                      1994 DR 350SES

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by R3lease1t View Post
                        I tried 117.5 with centered needles and it seemed too rich. Then again that was when I was having timing issues. I could try putting them back in and seeing if that changes anything.
                        Instead of taking a willy nilly approach, confirm your jet sizes and read your plugs
                        1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                        1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                        1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                        1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                        1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                        1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                        2007 DRz 400S
                        1999 ATK 490ES
                        1994 DR 350SES

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I put in the 117.5 jets and it helped considerably. I think once I sync it, it will be running like a dream. Thanks for the help

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ride where it bogs and add choke. If it picks up you're lean and if it bogs down you're rich.
                            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                            Comment

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