Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

carb rebuilt, valves adjusted, decent battery, new plugs ... hard to start

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    The diode test function would be better. Yes, you remember rather correctly about the .7 volt drop. In the diodes used in the R/R, it's typically in the .55-.60 range, but they should all be pretty close to the same reading.

    Step 1: Put the red meter lead on the red wire from R/R. Touch black lead to the three input terminals (wires). You should have open (OL) readings.
    Step 2: Switch meter leads, put the black lead on the red wire from the R/R. Touch the red lead to the three input terminals. You should get a reading. All three should be pretty close to another.
    Step 3: Put the black meter lead on the black wire from the R/R. Touch the red lead to the three input terminals. You should have open readings.
    Step 4: Put the red meter lead on the black wire from the R/R. Touch the black lead to the three input terminals. You should get the same readings that you got in Step 2.

    If ANY of those 12 readings is not right, you have a bad R/R.

    Note that this only tests the rectifying diodes. The only way to test the voltage regulation part is to plug everything back in and fire up the engine, but it's good to know if the diodes are good before testing the regulator.

    .
    sigpic
    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
    Family Portrait
    Siblings and Spouses
    Mom's first ride
    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
    (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

    Comment


      #17
      I ran the test you gave me Steve, and it turns out I have a blown diode. So I know the R/R is toast. I got expected measurements ~0.55V except one makes sense because I would see a voltage increase with throttle, but nothing up in the 13.5V range, more like 12.7 or something.

      The stator has 0.8 ohms on each coil, but I couldn't get the bike to start to do the AC readings.
      I realize the R/R has nothing to do with my no start problem, but its a problem nonetheless. I think I am just gonna order a new SH775 instead of bothering with the salvage.

      This bike has certainly had some problems, probably the battery lighting the seat on fire didn't help much, nor running it with the ignitor not grounded...

      Comment


        #18
        So since the R/R was toast, I tested the stator 43/41/6 VAC at 5000 RPM. Bought 2.5 lbs of wire for $20 rewound it and installed it. (Wired up Delta).

        Next up, formerly starting bike wouldn't start so I ran more tests until I concluded the igniter was toast. Drove 200 miles out of tenacity/OCD to pick one up I bought on ebay. Installed it and bike fired up immediately. Getting about 12VAC from each leg at idle with my stator rewind. Tonight I wire it into the new SH-775 R/R I got with the Furukawa connectors I got from Eastern Beaver, assuming i get 80VAC out of my stator at 5k RPM.

        Hopefully back on the road ...

        New petcock, valve adjust, carb rebuild with new o-rings, new intake o-rings, airbox sealed, new battery, rewound stator, new R/R, new igniter...

        Incidentally I cut out the starter cover gasket and pickup coil gasket by tracing the used ones with pencil and cutting it out with scissors and x-acto knife, that went real smooth.

        Comment


          #19
          Uhh, turns out I am looking for Wye not Delta wiring. I'll reconnect it tonight hopefully and get more like 80VAC than the 60VAC or so I was getting. Took it out for a spin last night and today and its great to be back on the road!

          Comment

          Working...
          X