#2 cylinder (From the left) getting no fuel?

[yank]

Rebuilding the carbs in this case is more of a chore than checking compression and a new owner should baseline the bike anyway. It could turn out that a valve has no clearance. While checking the engine warm is preferable, in this case it won't matter a lot because if the cylinder isn't firing, there is likely to be very little compression in the cylinder... plus if the cylinder isn't firing, it won't get warm anyway.

One last point, never put your pinkies on a headpipe that is hot. Use a spray bottle with water and hit a pipe that is firing, The water vaporizes instantly and if the pipe isn't firing, it will be very hot from being next to the other pipes but the water will spit and sizzle.

Thanks for the schooling! Did not know that it was a one cylinder motor. Maybe he should do all the proper maintenance first then check the compression.

[mrdennis87]

Thank you everyone for the information and help! I will definitely use a spray bottle of water next time to test the exhaust pipes. I didn't check the compression to match it to the other cylinders, as I didn't have a tester. I planned on getting one to test this, but I think I've got it fixed now I ended up starting to take the carbs apart last night, and I pulled the pilot jets out of the carb#2, and carb #1. Just to compare them because you guys suggested it was probably plugged, and that is why there was no fuel to that cylinder. Turns out you guys were on the money! The pilot jet for cyl #2, was completely clogged! I used a bristle from a brake cleaning brush, per the rebuild guide, and reopened the hole so I can get fuel now. I put them all back together, and have the carbs on the bike (only took me an hour to put them on ). I've got to finish putting some little things back together after work today, to get her started, and verify she will go over 40 mph now.

Because of the help here, I've learned so much more about carbs, fixed my bike, and have a home to learn a lot more about my bike.. thank you!
Don't worry, I am definitely changing that oil with a new filter and have to give the rest of the bike a once over. The guy who had it before me didn't seem like he knew what he was doing. He put an led light on the rear for the brake light/signals.. and didn't even have it hooked up, along with the front signals. So when I put the wires together, signals won't flash, and I couldn't find the wire for the brake light, etc (because it's led I believe). I've got a wiring diagram from here and will attempt to get this fixed right I'm going to find a store around me so I can get the stock lights and put those on though, unless you guys have a specific place I can support from here by buying them from there.

I'm attaching a picture of the pilot jets by the way, I was so excited when I seen it clogged. Now I'm excited to put it all together, and see how she runs!
IMG_3667.jpg

[mrdennis87]

I am definitely getting an air filter also. Just got the oil filter, and oil for her. From what I am seeing, these bikes need everything with air, vacuum, etc to be perfect. She's got 18,000 miles on her, and I want to keep her going for a lot more.

[Joe Garfield]

Welcome to the forum! Definitely look for and/or follow the links and newcomer guides. Do a search for BassCliff's website which has manuals tutorials, etc.

I started wrenching on bikes last year, thanks to this good natured group. I bought a bike in pretty rough shape and having it running pretty good right now, and even took it to a rally to meet some of these guys. It's a great community.

Remember to check for parts in the Classifieds section, and definitely post in the 'wanted' section if you need something - there are a lot of parts around that people will let go for a more than reasonable price.

When you get to the 'Stator Papers' you'll find that LEDs on these bikes are not the best idea until you getreplace the regulator/rectifier with a Series type. The stator makes full electrical power at low RPM and the stock R/R basically just dumps the extra to ground (the frame), causing the stator to run hot. Reducing the electrical load just causes more waste heat to go from the stator to the frame. A couple of turn signals might not make a huge difference, but the power adds up so be careful.

[mrdennis87]

Thank you! I've already got BassCliffs website bookmarked, as well as this one.

I don't know a lot about bikes, as I've never messed with them. I had one for a couple months two years ago, rode it for the summer, then sold it. It was in pretty bad shape, and the person I sold it to wanted to fix it all.

I didn't see the classifieds section, I'll have to look for it. I would rather have the stock lights, but the P/O had leds on there instead.

The P/O also stated he replaced the charging system, with a new version? I think he said a digital ignition? Like I said, I don't know a lot, but I am learning I'm not sure what the difference is between the two. Someone told me I can maybe add resistors in line from the wire to the led light, to increase the load because the led doesn't have the proper load to activate the flasher. I'm not sure on this though, as I've not messed with that before. I have a lot of resistors, as I work on some electronics (programming microprocessors). But, I'm not sure which resistor I would need. I would think upgrading the flasher would be easier and safer.

[JTGS850GL]

Sounds like you've got a lot of learning ahead of you. Most here would recommend that you do all the maintenance before hand. Make sure the valves are adjusted, carbs completely stripped and dipped, change all your fluids and verify the electrical/charging system is working properly. NEVER depend on the PO's information to be accurate. There sole purpose is the dump their abandoned project on any unsuspecting victim. Most here would advocate getting it running right in stock trim before starting on the modifications. It's much more predictable and straight forward when trying to troubleshoot issues. From reading your posts it seems like the petcock is probably shot. Don't try to rebuild it. The success rate is very poor and, in most cases, the stock replacement is still available.

Don't try to run the bike till you've done the basic maintenance or you risk much damage. These bike will be very dependable as long as you do what's needed. One of the big problems encountered is a lack of valve adjustment. The bikes tend to tighten the valve gap over time. If not checked and adjusted, the result will be burnt valves and a major tare down. The second biggest issue with these bikes is electrical system related. The charging system depends on a functioning stator and Rectifier/Regulator. R/R for short. If you modify the electrical system and make the lighting system "more efficient", you WILL destroy the stator or the R/R unless you change the R/R for a series unit first. One of the many reasons we usually recommend starting stock and them modding.

[gustovh]

Glad to hear that we helped a bit. What concerns me now is your gas valve. Your crankcase was full of gas, there is a reason, and it probably is your gas valve leaking. Either through the vacuum line into #2 carb or the O ring seal is toast. If the condition is not fixed you end up with gas in the oil again, not a good thing.

V

[mrdennis87]

Right, I definitely agree we can't depend on the P/O's information. As far as I can tell, everything is stock except the signals, and the "digital ignition" system he said he put in.. I've ordered those O-rings, and once I get them I will be taking it apart and doing a good cleaning on those carbs.
Now for the petcock, you're saying the gas dripping out from the crankcase breather hose is from the petcock being bad? I guess I misunderstood before :\ If that is correct, I will get a new one. The one's I've seen are around $45, and will take a week or so to get. Either way, I think I'm going to replace it. I definitely don't want fuel in with the oil, especially after I just changed it lol
As for the led signals front and back.. I would prefer stock of course, that's just what the P/O put on there.. or tried too..
The charging system, he said is a digital ignition system. So I'm not sure if this is an upgrade or not. I have to read more about it, and see exactly what it is.
As for the valve adjustment, I will look in the forums here and find the procedure. Do you recommend doing this every xxxxxx miles?

[JTGS850GL]

Don't confuse the ignition system with the charging system. Two completely different systems. If he changed out the ignition system with a Dyna-S, then it is an upgrade.

Do the valves now and then every 3000 miles.

[mrdennis87]

I just looked and I had a screenshot of his ad for sale.. It is a Dynatec digital ignition he says..? Ill definitely be checking those valves, thank you!