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    Carb adjust issues

    1984 ge 1100 gk. Bike was no idling right. Air fuel mix stews out 1 turn. Turned out to 2.5 turns. Adjusts idle drew. Now idles good. Now when get up to 4 and up rpm on road under load bogs down surges. Not sure where to go from here. Ran good down road before adjustment just idle issue. Would bog down quit running unless choked. Any info welcome

    #2
    1. How long have you had the bike?

    2. How long has this problem been happening?

    3. Have you done any of the basic maintenance (carb clean, valve adjust, etc.)?

    Most of the issues you are describing point to carb problems. Yes, more than one.

    Idle mixture screws at 2.5 turns is not bad for a starting point, but does not necessarily mean that it is RIGHT for your bike. Each carb has to be adjusted individually, they are all different. One my bikes has three of the carbs set to 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns, but the fourth carb has to be out about 4 turns before it runs right.

    Getting to "4 and up rpm", I am assuming that you mean 4k or 4000 RPM. Bogging down there indicates problems with the pilot or the main jet, depending on the throttle setting (not the engine speed).

    Does it matter if the engine is just barely warmed up or fully hot? Beginning of a ride vs slowing down off the freeway? Cool days vs hot days?

    .
    sigpic
    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
    Family Portrait
    Siblings and Spouses
    Mom's first ride
    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
    (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

    Comment


      #3
      Surging and needing the choke indicate it is lean. Since you said it ran fine before you tweaked the mixture screws I would start by looking for air leaks around the airbox, carb boots and so on. Not reinstalling everything properly can really screw up your carburation and it is easy to get something not quite sealed up when you are putting it all back together.


      Mark
      1982 GS1100E
      1998 ZX-6R
      2005 KTM 450EXC

      Comment


        #4
        Sorry! I was not very clear with my discription. Got bike from my brother in law had been sitting for a few years he said old gas not stabilized. Got carbs cleaned. Not sure how they did this. When got back at idle after would get warm idle would start to race. Would turn out idle drew to get idle down but then it would bog down stop running unless choked. Boots were leaking. Had them replaced. Still had same idle issue. Checked fuel air mixture srew
        out one turn all carbs. Thought this seemed lean. So adjusted out to 2.5 all carbs. Then adjusted idle drew to about 1200 rpm. But now when take out on road when get up to 4000rpm and higher starts to surge. Not sure how to proceed from here. Thanks for comments.now idles fine but on road has the surging issue. Where before would not idle but ran fine down the road. Would adjustin mixture screws cause this.
        Last edited by Guest; 07-08-2016, 02:56 PM. Reason: Still unclear I think

        Comment


          #5
          Your expectation that a 34 year old bike that has been neglected for years would run properly without completely doing all maintenance is a bit over reaching

          But, you came to the right place for the solutions. Go here and read everything, especially the CV Carb rebuild



          The forum is the sum of knowledge for centuries of GS experience

          When you say you don't know what "they" did to your carbs, who is "they"? You need to read the rebuild tutorial and ask them what they did.

          Then go down to your local parts store and get some dip and follow the tutorial

          We find it extremely difficult to find anyone that knows how tp work on these bikes anymore.
          1978 GS 1000 (since new)
          1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
          1978 GS 1000 (parts)
          1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
          1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
          1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
          2007 DRz 400S
          1999 ATK 490ES
          1994 DR 350SES

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the advice. You are right I will need to educate myself better about these bikes.

            Comment


              #7
              The forum is so you can do it all yourself and end up with a fine running machine
              1978 GS 1000 (since new)
              1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
              1978 GS 1000 (parts)
              1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
              1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
              1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
              2007 DRz 400S
              1999 ATK 490ES
              1994 DR 350SES

              Comment


                #8
                Just a little update. After checking with the shop that cleaned the carbs and there assurance they cleaned them properly. I felt confident I adjusting fuel air mixture screws further. After a lot of trial and error got bike to idle and run properly. Now want to check clylenders for proper compression and sync carbs while on bike. Want to do myself as fees to have this done is prohibitive for me. I will comb your sight for info on doing this. You are right I want to learn to keep bike running the best I can myself. Again thanks for great advise.

                Comment


                  #9
                  You can vacuum sync yourself for sure. $80 for a carbtune which i read great recommendations about and had good results with myself. Just make slow adjustments.
                  Jordan

                  1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
                  2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                  1973 BMW R75/5

                  Comment


                    #10
                    ok thanks. will try to see if can find vacume gauges,and specs they should be adjusted to.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      "Vacuum gauge" = Carbtune. click link. Comes from the UK, priced in British Pounds.
                      Cost is 73 Pounds for Carbtune, case and air mail. At today's currency rate, that is $95.71 USD.

                      "Specs" = no set numbers, just set them all equal. Suzuki specified the outer two vacuum levels just a little bit higher than the inner two, but nobody has ever figured out exactly why. Most of us just set them all equal and they seem to run just fine.

                      .
                      sigpic
                      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                      Family Portrait
                      Siblings and Spouses
                      Mom's first ride
                      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                      Comment

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