Plug chop advice / reading for WOT

[AMK]

Not to hijack but I bought a couple of Stihl's and it's mixed 50:1. They told me with Stihl oil I can run that mix in anything.
Apparently not.

[Cipher]

It depends ultimately on stoichiometry. SO yes maybe the Stihl works miracles?
I do recall 50:1 Bombardier oil being crazy expensive compared to generic oil in the 80s
Never killed and engine on generic though.

[JonnyC]

What? This is a silly post,
Those plugs have not got any discernible marking indicating that this OP is indeed trolling.
Who the heck cant peer down the side of the plug? What a waste of time and money.

Thanks, much appreciated.

[Cipher]

ur welcome.
buy a exhaust gas analyzer

[chuck hahn]

Heres a read direct from NGK.

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/how-do-i-read-a-spark-plug

[JonnyC]

ur welcome.
buy a exhaust gas analyzer

I actually considered the Innovate LM-2 with weld-in bung in order to do data logging, but I've already spent enough money on this thing.

[JonnyC]

I had velocity stacks and it ran ok, very rich but it had a weird bogging at cruising speed/rpm. Took off the stacks and put on filters but it was severely rich to the point it didn't want to go anywhere.

Here's a follow-up. I got my velocity stacks installed, and I do indeed have a stumble/hesitation at cruising throttle position once the bike warms up (which indicates rich to me, and my plugs have more soot than I've ever seen on a plug, but who knows what circuit is causing that because I haven't done a chop yet). I switched back to filters and it has the same issue, just not as bad. I tried switching the main to DJ155 and initially it felt great, but on subsequent rides it was performing like crap. This is when I realized I drilled way too big of a hole in my slides. Got that resolved (back to stock size, not dynojet size), but it didn't help.

So I'm starting back at square one and making sure I have the right main jet to start. I'll try some more plug chops, but if those don't work I'll take it to a local shop to put it on the dyno. $70 a pop though. But it very well might end up that there isn't enough vacuum with velocity stacks for the slides to operate properly, and I'll have to start all over again with filters.

[JJ]

Please don't tell me that you're trying to run open, unfiltered velocity stacks on a street bike...