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Removing carb boots
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Removing carb boots
Im replaceing the carb boots on my 80 GS 550 , just looking at those phillips head screws made me cringe. I came up with a little trick that worked for me. I took the top screws out with a new pair of needle nose vice grips. Then I tapped the boots very lightly in the direction to loosen the bottom screws , and it worked ! # 3 was a little more of a challenge because the boot hits the timing chain housing,on that one i cut the rubber off the boot which gave me enough to get the vise grips on the last screw. Now of course I might have been very lucky,just thought id share this.Tags: None
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Do you have a hand impact tool? The kind that you smack with a hammer to loosen screws or bolts? Many are not aware that the nose that holds the driver bit comes off, revealing a 3/8" square drive. I use a couple of LONG extensions to put the tool back over the battery box, that allows you to remove the screws rather easily.
Hopefully you are not going to re-use those stock screws. Stainless socket-head screws are available from cycleorings.com for a very reasonable price.
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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Denman2112
Yes i have an impact driver ( the kind you hit with a hammer) i have a set of JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) bits to go with it,they fit the phillips screws perfectly. As you know with any impact driver it has to be at a straight angel to the screw and have enough room to give it a good wack.Even if you took out air box and battery bracket you wouldn't have enough room to get a good wack.So angling it over the battery box on this bike wouldn't work.This method though unconventional and crude to some worked for me for two reasons, a new pair of vise grips with sharp teeth and screws that weren't overly tight. When i did remove all the screws naturally they went right in the trash i wouldn't put screws i just removed with a vice grips back in ! lol.Actually im looking a some TORX head socket screws that might be better,with a little never sieze of course !!
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These are a better option than TORX:
Current:
Z1300A5 Locomotive (swapped my Intruder for it), GS450 Cafe Project (might never finish it....), XT500 Commuter (I know - it's a Yamaha :eek:)
Past:
VL1500 Intruder (swapped for Z1300), ZX9R Streetfighter (lets face it - too fast....), 1984 GSX750EF, 1984 GSX1100EF (AKA GS1150)
And a bunch of other crap Yamahas....
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Originally posted by hillsy View PostThese are a better option than TORX:
Huh? My understanding is the other way around, Torx is better than Hex. At least regarding to the forces etc (wikipedia has a nice illustration).#1: 1979 GS 550 EC "Red" – Very first Bike / Overhaul thread New here? ☛ Read the Top 10 Newbie mistakes thread
#2: 1978 GS 550 EC "Blue" – Can't make it a donor / "Rebuild" thread Manuals (and much more): See Cliff's homepage here
#3: 2014 Moto Guzzi V7 II Racer – One needs a runner while wrenching
#4: 1980 Moto Guzzi V65C – Something to chill
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Denman2112
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geol
Problem with the torx fasteners in a place where they may need be removed by using a hand impact driver is that impact torx bits will be a little hard to find where you can find socket/allen head. Remember that the impact driver (on an SAE tool) is a 1/2" square I think. This is why finding JIS impact bits is a bit harder as they come needing to use a metric size driver (don't recall). A #3 SAE works fine on M6 JIS screws.
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Denman2112
The way i see it,installing the screws with never seize and at the correct torque you'll never need a impact driver again anyway.The company i bought the bits from (Vessel) does sell a metric driver though.And if you cant buy the right tool, make one.
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