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Flatspot RPM range 4000-6000 RPM 77-79 GS750

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    Flatspot RPM range 4000-6000 RPM 77-79 GS750

    Hi!
    I have been reading about others that
    have had similar problems but not helped
    me to fix it.

    I have a 77-79 GS750 engine in a GS750
    that have a flatspot in the RPM range 4k-6k.
    It runs strong up to 4k and then just flatten out
    until I get of the throttle,but if I then just let
    the RPM rise gradually,then when hit 6k
    it begins to pull like a train to 9k or redline.

    I also have the slow to return idle/hanging idle that others have
    written about and the strange thing is that if I brake
    hard 2 times or so quikcly, the idle goes back to near normal.

    Could this point at something?

    I was thinking,The fuel in the bowls are forced forward
    when braking and as the floats are hinged in their back
    the fuel will try to hold it open and give a more rich fuelratio.
    Am I wrong on this?

    I have freeflowing 4-2 exhaust,(Marving slipons)
    KN filter in orginal GS750 filterbox.
    New intake Orings and cleaned the carbs
    and assembled with new Orings on these also.

    I use standard VM26 carbs with 17,5 pilotjets,115Main jets
    Needles at the third grove(standard) floatlevel 23mmed
    Carbs synced.

    The plugs are a little sooty around the edges and the
    electrode color are dark tan.

    To me it feels like it has a lean spot but at the same time
    maybe rich at other RPMS
    The idle mixtures are set about 2turns out for highest idle.



    Should i go up in number on the pilots,raisen the needles or
    change the mains or whatever?


    It is a little frustrating to not get this
    sorted so all help is welcome.

    In advance,
    Thanks

    gsman
    Last edited by Guest; 09-19-2016, 04:02 PM.

    #2
    Usually hanging idle is the sign of leaness at idle. Tray turning the idle mixture screws out 1/4 turn and see if it helps.

    When the engine has the flat spot from 4k-6k, does it only happen at full throttle, or does it happen at 3/4 or rolling on the throttle? Is it better or worse when the engine is cold or warm?
    1982 GS1100E "Jolene"

    Comment


      #3
      I would possibly check the bowl vents to assure they are vented into a dead air space. Possibly they are exposed to the passing air and creating a negative pressure not allowing the carb bowls to fill fully. Just a thought .I have had this problem in the past on mainly full fairing bikes that had the bowl vent improperly routed. Hanging idle could be the slides out of sync. and of course a lean condition.
      sigpic 82 gs1100ez 1168 Wiseco,Web .348 Cams,Falicon Sprockets,Star Racing Ported Head,1mm o/s Stainless Valves,APE Springs,Bronze Guides,etc.APE Billet Tensioner,36CV Carbs,Stage 3 Dynojet,Plenum w/K&N filter,Trued,Welded,Balanced,Crank w/Katana rods & Billet left end, FBG backcut trans, VHR HD Clutch basket,APE nut,VHR High volume oil pump gears,1150 Oil cooler,V&H Megaphone header w/Competition baffle,Dyna S,Coils,Wires,etc.Other misc.mods.

      Comment


        #4
        Where are the pilot fuel screws set?

        Mid range issues usually need the needles raised
        1978 GS 1000 (since new)
        1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
        1978 GS 1000 (parts)
        1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
        1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
        1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
        2007 DRz 400S
        1999 ATK 490ES
        1994 DR 350SES

        Comment


          #5
          The float bowl tubes are routed together and ends in the air
          between the frame and rear swingarm just in front of rear wheel.
          I suppose this is close to standard routing of these vent tubes.

          The flatspot is there,3/4 throttle,full throttle or rollon throttle.
          If I am in low enough gears compared to the speed the rpm
          climbs a little faster until it gets up to above 6k and then begins
          to pull like it should.

          Another side of the problem is that when it is in high gear
          on the freeway,the airstream against the bike will overpower the enginepower
          and it is just flattten out at 4k and above.If I then jumps down to third gear the
          rpm will rise but it don`t help much when the flat spot are most apparent
          when the engine are loaded in high gear and the speed will not increase further.

          My sprocket combination are set for about 3000RPM/50mph (530 18/38 sprockets) in fift
          which I see as a nice compromise of power and highway cruise RPM.

          The fuel mixture screws are at the moment set at 1 turn out each.
          I have tried with 1.5 turns out and that just made the plugs looks even
          more sooty.

          As some of you are indicating,there are a sign of
          just to much air in the fuel ratio,But how to correct it?
          That is the question.

          I discoverred when I synced the carbs when carb topcovers off
          that there was a small hole in top of the slides beside the needles and throttle link fasten bolts,
          just like a third bolt hole for the throttle link.

          When I last time was syncing the carbs I also did hear a surging sound from the slides at the locations
          of these holes just like it got some unwanted air through these holes also.

          What is this/these hole/s
          intended for?

          On some model years part drawings of GS750 carbs(VM26)
          there are a plastic washer above the
          needles (beetween the throttle link and the slide)which is not used on my carbs.

          Is this a gasket?or what are the purpose of this plastic washer?


          gsman
          Last edited by Guest; 09-23-2016, 11:20 AM.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by TxGSrider View Post
            Usually hanging idle is the sign of leaness at idle. Tray turning the idle mixture screws out 1/4 turn and see if it helps.

            When the engine has the flat spot from 4k-6k, does it only happen at full throttle, or does it happen at 3/4 or rolling on the throttle? Is it better or worse when the engine is cold or warm?
            Turning the mixture screws out will increase airflow and lean it out more. Turn the screws in to reduce airflow and richen the mixture.
            Jordan

            1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
            2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
            1973 BMW R75/5

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by hannibal View Post
              Turning the mixture screws out will increase airflow and lean it out more. Turn the screws in to reduce airflow and richen the mixture.
              Uh, I don't think so.

              If the mixture screws are on the engine side of the carb, they control fuel to the idle mixture (pilot system), and turning them out adds fuel, richening the mixture at idle and light throttle.

              If the mixture screws are on the air box side, they control the addition of additional air to the idle mixture (pilot system) and light throttle and turning it out would increase "leaness".
              Last edited by TxGSrider; 09-21-2016, 05:33 PM.
              1982 GS1100E "Jolene"

              Comment


                #8
                I question the #17.5 pilot jets. Even with a stage-3 jet kit a GS1000 is recommended to use #15 pilot jets. Your pilot fuel screws should not be any more than one turn out and air screws starting at about 1 to 1.5. Generally a flat spot like yours that corrects when you back off the throttle and ease it back on is a lean condition. I suspect your plugs are coloring up darker because the pilot circuit is rich and the flat spot is because the main jet needles are set too lean. Hanging idle is also an indication of a vacuum leak on VM carburetors. Have you checked your Boots and Boot O-rings and properly sealed the lid of your air box?
                Last edited by OldVet66; 09-21-2016, 06:50 PM.
                http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yes,I have also suspected that there is a vacumleak somewhere
                  as there is no change on the pressure value when doing a compression test.
                  With throttle open or closed,same value.
                  Then engine simply sucks the same amount of air whatever the throttle
                  is closed or open fully.This could be a indication of vacumleak
                  but it only if so happen when engine are fully warmed up.
                  As an example,engine idles normally shortly after going off the choke
                  until fully warmed up.
                  I think it should show a higher value with the throttle open than closed
                  if everything is as it should just as a test.
                  I have new intake orings.
                  Maybe I should get some other intake rubbers too as they are
                  old but have no visible faults I think.

                  gsman

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Generally, if the motor runs worse as it warms up, its a rich condition. If you had a vacuum leak, it would cause a lean condition.
                    1982 GS1100E "Jolene"

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by TxGSrider View Post
                      Generally, if the motor runs worse as it warms up, its a rich condition. If you had a vacuum leak, it would cause a lean condition.
                      That was exactly the case for me with my recent issues. Hanging idle going to stall after fully warmed up. I kept richening it up, it got worse. Finally found the threads boogered on #1 pilot screw so what I thought was fully in, was actually several turns out.
                      sigpic
                      09 Kaw C14 Rocket powered Barcalounger
                      1983 GS1100e
                      82\83 1100e Frankenbike
                      1980 GS1260
                      Previous 65 Suzuki 80 Scrambler, 76 KZ900, 02 GSF1200S, 81 GS1100e, 80 GS850G

                      Comment


                        #12
                        OldVet66 are so far most clear on what it could be
                        as it is a combination of both rich and lean condition.

                        If I can get the midrange working ok then something
                        at least is solved.
                        As some say about the midrange,I think I will try
                        to raise the needles ONE step up.Or should I try
                        two steps when I am at it?

                        gsman

                        Comment


                          #13
                          One step at a time
                          1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                          1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                          1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                          1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                          1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                          1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                          2007 DRz 400S
                          1999 ATK 490ES
                          1994 DR 350SES

                          Comment

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