Exhaust studs, bolts, stainless... And gaskets

[garyS-NJ]

I pulled Franken header off my '79 1000e yesterday for paint, maybe wrap. Surprised the bolts came out easy enough and was wondering what's best option to reinstall. Stainless? Bolts or studs? And recommendation on exhaust gaskets? Partzilla oem or is there better aftermarket? Oh, and they weren't leaking, should I just reinstall pipe?

[Agemax]

stainless steel studs, with OEM gaskets

[steve murdoch]

Also use a dab of anti-seize on those stainless bolts.
You can get this stiff in a tube that will last you a long time.

https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-anti-seize/permatex-nickel-anti-seize-lubricant/

[garyS-NJ]

Thanks, I found some m8x1.25x40mm stainless studs on eBay. Wasn't sure if I could install studs and then get header pipes in and flanges onto the studs. Here's the frankenpipe. Gonna paint then wrap it.

[hillsy]

If you're using studs, then Loctite them. If you're using bolts, then anti-seize them.

[steve murdoch]

Gary, did you build that header yourself?
I like the flat collection area for ground clearance but never seen sharp angles on down pipes.

[garyS-NJ]

Hey Steve,
I wish I made that header.. The PO was a welder and he fabbed it... He started with the stock 4:2 and chopped pipes to fit. Not sure how but it looks cool. I cleaned the rust off and metal prepped it and painted with exhaust paint. On the fence about wrapping it also.

[Steve]

Personally, I would ditch the wrapping and ceramic coat it.

If you want to see how ceramic coating looks on a header, click the links in my sig for my 850 and my son's 650.

.

[Joe Garfield]

I personally would look for hardware specifically designed for headers - the cheap stainless hardware from the home improvement store is not the same chemical formula as high grade stainless exhaust header hardware. If you buy box-store stainless, the bolts are much weaker than the non-stainless.

I've also read not to use stainless due to galvanic corrosion between the aluminum block and the stainless hardware, so it's important to use the right metal formula. Below is a link to some interesting information about different metals and corrosion. Please note what happens when you add copper to the mix!! Some anti-seize compounds are copper based.

https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Corrosion.pdf

[Agemax]

I personally would look for hardware specifically designed for headers - the cheap stainless hardware from the home improvement store is not the same chemical formula as high grade stainless exhaust header hardware. If you buy box-store stainless, the bolts are much weaker than the non-stainless.

I've also read not to use stainless due to galvanic corrosion between the aluminum block and the stainless hardware, so it's important to use the right metal formula. Below is a link to some interesting information about different metals and corrosion. Please note what happens when you add copper to the mix!! Some anti-seize compounds are copper based.
https://www.fastenal.com/content/fed...0Corrosion.pdf

When fitting studs, not bolts, its advisable to use threadlocker to lock them in the head, therefore no antiseize required there.

[BurntKittyForge]

Phew, "Cheap..." well this part, one reply:

...- the cheap stainless hardware from the home improvement store is not the same chemical formula as high grade stainless exhaust header hardware. If you buy box-store stainless, the bolts are much weaker than the non-stainless....

Probably good generic advice, but it Had me wondering (again) about the $1.79 each or so Stainless M8 x1.25's x ...I used to replace most of mine...
At the time I knew they *may* not be as strong as stock, but the stock rusted , worn , half seized ...
Any way here's what ole "box store" "Cheap brand" Lowe's had :THESE (or longer maybe)
AND, here's Hillman's PDF: http://wedo.hillmangroup.com/Asset/9...me_0413_lr.pdf
Haven't found an actual rating specification BUT Phew!!!

IMO gotta be better than the rusted in place, lucky not broken trying to remove one's before.
(Planning on removing once or twice per year to check on them and keep the threads free...

My exhaust was a mess (the '93 GSX1100G) and had two posts and worn/rusty socket head steel bolts...pretty much all four leaked at the block (Heard that can "burn a valve(s)(???) from running like that?).

I removed the two bent/ worn studs and the stock(?) one's were very difficult. There was one already broke off in the head. Planning to make a drill bushing jig and drill into it, almost cut into it with a 90 degree attachment on my Dremel, decided to maybe have a machine shop look at it someday instead...

The "gaskets" on this MC are inside a step in front of exhaust ports of block. The header spacers on pipes press the header to these gaskets had been cut ,two were too short to press the header flush.
So I cut new spacers from a scrap stainless lamp. These fit two of the header pipes and are cut rings of stainless...made it a lot more quiet all sealed up, Thought might need to adjust the carbs even.

Also,I wasn't ready to paint the whole chrome header so I taped off the good chrome and used high temp where there was previously treated rust, still looks chrome mostly...for a budget, been wondering about a spray on product : http://www.midwayusa.com/product/213...t-4-oz-aerosol ...Don't know whether it would hold up to sustained high temp. worth a try sometime IMO...