81 GS450EX carb/intake/airbox rebuild/boot replace tips to make it easier

[Guest]

I'm a GS noob, however 20 years working on jet engines.. I have some tech savvy.

Removing the carbs.

Before I set out to replace the intake boots, clean the carbs and replace the air box boots, I did some homework to try and make this a streamlined process and avoid any hiccups. So this is what I did... couldn't find a thread or sticky on the removal.

1. Disconnect and remove battery.

2. Drain and remove gas tank. If I have to explain how to do this... stop right here and pay someone to do this.

3. Disconnect throttle cable from the right throttle grip. 2 phillips screws underside and unscrew the hip from the bottom and gently pull cable out and let it hang.

4. Using 2 10mm box end wrenches, loosen the throttle cable set nuts and remove cable from plate.

5. Locate the 4 screw/bolts holding the throttle cable plate to the top of the twin carbs.

6. Remove the screws, Remove the plate - set aside

7. You should be able to remove the plug end of the throttle cable from the carbs at this point fairly easy... unless you have catchers mitts for hands...you can carefully set the cable off to the side for now ( may be a good opportunity to lube the cable too before you put everything back together ) On install, put throttle cable on before sliding carbs completely in, just don't put on plate yet.

*****If you have pods you can skip to step 11 and omit any that does not apply*****

8. Locate the 3 10mm bolts holding the battery case to the bike, remove all 3 (1 front, 2 back) bolts and drop the case past the rear lip, you will see this.

9. Remove the clips from the top of the air box and remove the air box top cover

10. Remove the 2 screws on each side holding the air box to the frame.

11. Loosen the clamps on the air box boots, intake boots and crank case vent line.

12. At this point you can gently pull the stock air box back about 2 inches (if your lucky) and easily remove the carbs from the bike. They pretty much slide out with ease.

13. Cover open intake ports to avoid contamination.

14. Remove intake boots ( highly suggest a 90/right angle drive adapter on an impact driver )

15. Remove air box boots... DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER OR PLIERS.... you will damage the plastic on the air box.... they come out with a little effort using your fingers.

Reverse the process after carb clean


By taking the cable plate off you make it easier to install and remove the carbs by getting rid of that fork that sticks out. The screws are easily reached on removal and install with the tank removed by a long screwdriver, torx bit or impact with an extension.

By taking the bolts out of the battery carrier and dropping past the lip... you give extra room for the air box to move, not a lot but it makes a difference.

I put new boots in the air box since I got this box off a salvage bike due to a critter incident and they definitely needed replaced. Took an little extra time to get them on the carbs even with the extra room... they had to be "finessed" on.

Throttle cable may/will require minimal adjustments upon install. Follow the manual on throttle adjustment and carb sync/adjustments.

Here is my results Intake Rebuild GS450EX

[gsrick]

Welcome to the site BF. Did you buy the red 450 that was recently on O-ville Clist? In case you don't know you can download a copy of the 450 manual from BikeCliffs web page. http://gsarchive.bwringer.com

[Blue Falcon]

Welcome to the site BF. Did you buy the red 450 that was recently on O-ville Clist? In case you don't know you can download a copy of the 450 manual from BikeCliffs web page. http://gsarchive.bwringer.com

Several red ones on Orlando's CL lol, I had mine posted after buying to flip...decided to keep it. I didn't get the one with the cowl (Titusville), wouldn't come off price, I bought the one in December on the west coast..wasn't in the Orlando was in the Tampa, he wanted $600 and I paid considerably less. I have the clymer manual, it just did not give the "easiest" way to remove the carbs and I did not see any post with the "easiest" method. I quoted easiest, easiest is not always the best for most people, I just didn't see any need to spend an extra hour or two forcing parts into place when I could spend an extra 5 mins making room and removing obstacles. I have also found, even in the Gas Turbine World, the manuals don't always give the best method of remove/install. In my case, the carbs were amazingly clean on the inside, just did the o-ring replace, total time for me to do the whole swap was around 2 hours and about another hour for adjustments. That included taking a couple of calls and a snack in the process. I also checked my valve clearances and the were all in spec.....maybe someone WAS doing maintenance on this one....explains all the extra gasket sealant on everything..lol. On my pics of the boots, there was a lot of shellac/lacquer on boots, one was in really good condition, the others...meh.

[sam000lee]

It used to take me FOREVER to get my GS450 carbs and airbox back and often it was with TWO people - I hated that thing. I'm all for stock airbox setup but it's so nice having PODS on the GS450 since getting them on or off doesn't take more than a minute or two.
It's WAY easier on the GS750 (and I'm guessing some or most other GS's) since the airbox also slides out of the side and then there's nothing in the way of you pulling the carbs backwards. It's night and day between the two.