Does float level affect lean or rich condition?

[Steve]

I have another question in reference to the original post:

If the float levels are within the range of specification, does this affect the lean or rich condition of the carburetors? For example, it the floats levels are at the bottom (low) of the range, would this tend to a lean condition?

I ask this because cause my float levels are set a bit low but within range. I'm still having a bit of sluggish acceleration in the mid-throttle. I've shimmed the needles a couple of washers. I tempted to add a third washer to remedy this. But I want make sure this is the correct solution.

Bike is an '83 850G.

I've verified the float levels via the clear tube method.

Thanks!

You have to remember that you set the floats with the carbs upside down, so setting the floats "lower" (to a lower number) is actually setting them HIGHER when you turn the carbs over.

Yes, the level of the fuel does affect whether the mixture is rich or lean. If the level is higher (lower number when you made the adjustment), it is easier for the air passing over the jets to suck up some fuel, making it a richer mixture. On the other hand, if the level is lower (higher number when you made the adjustment), it is harder for the air passing over the jets to suck up some fuel, making it a leaner mixture.

Since you verified the level with the clear tube, it should be fine, assuming it was at the proper level.

Do you have the stock airbox and stock exhaust, or has either one of them been changed? If they are both stock, stock jetting should work just fine. With today's ethanol-laced gasoline, one size up on the mains, shimming the needle (by removing the plastic spacer and replacing it with a shorter stack of washers, as outlined above) and another 1/8 turn out on the pilot screw should have the carburation set just about perfectly.

.

[bwringer]

What Steve said.

I set float height (with the carbs upside-down) to the lowest number in the range (meaning the fuel level is a bit higher right side up), and I take the time to make them all exactly the same, not just in range. Yes, it's a pain, but it's not something you usually need to ever repeat for many years.

One other factor I will mention is that you CANNOT get good results with the shoddy imitation parts in carb kits. Original or OEM needles, jets, seats, etc. are the only parts that work.

And yeah, make sure you understand correctly how using washers in the needles works. The diagram is correct. Many people get this wrong.

Also, make sure you're setting float height correctly. I've opened up more than one set of carbs where someone measured from the top of the float and not at the step as outlined in the manual. Since you are verifying actual gas levels, this probably doesn't apply to you, but it's worth mentioning any time you're discussing float height.

Here's a crappy image I cobbled together aeons ago:

[mnferwerda]

Thanks for all the advice (and pictures) guys. I pulled the tops off the carbs, and put the shims where they were supposed to go. Went for a ride with my son and soo much better. Doesn't keep up with his VFR800, but pulls nicely through the whole range. Then we swapped bikes and I couldn't keep up with him either. He was impressed with the bike. At some point I will pull the carbs and get the float levels exactly the same on all the carbs. The only other issue I have is sometimes the blinkers don't work. I'm assuming that has to do with auto-cancel module.