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    stainless exhaust studs

    looking to replace the rusty exhaust bolts that were in my bike when purchased and so I purchased a same length (40mm) set of m8x1.25X40mm stainless studs which have an allen key drive to install. well I measured the thread depth in the head and seems these 40mm studs (and the 40mm bolts) seem a little short. forget about threading the new studs all the way in (might need 55 - 60mm long) but to allow room for a nut and lockwasher, seems I can only thread in about 10mm of the 40mm stud. I feel like it deserves 15-20mm insertion to be really secure. there must be an engineering rule for this. any you folks have good alternatives to rusty bolts and advice on stainless studs? also, I planned to install with red locktite to protect against galvanic corrosion (steel against aluminum head). But I'm worried the stud would never again come out with just the allen key drive. One ebay seller advertises these style stainless studs with copper antiseize...
    1979 gs1000e (everyday) 1977 gs750 for sale
    1983 yam xj550 maxim streetbob sold
    1995 gsx750F everyday fighterjet 1990 gsx1100F for sale
    2000kaw zx600
    2003 BMW K1200GT sport tour
    2000Buel Cyclone M2 motorwork
    1984 Yam venture xvz1200 -long ride/cold ride ride gf ride..
    1978 Honda cb750F3 supersport top end (still)
    1976 Harley FL 3/8" S&S stroker - motor out way too long
    1980 Harley fxs80 - wacked good on this one

    #2
    Yes on antiseize over loctite.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      I thought I read to use locktite on the stud and antiseize on the nut. Why would you ever need to remove the studs?
      Jordan

      1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
      2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
      1973 BMW R75/5

      Comment


        #4
        Stainless steel is used in electrical connections where aluminum is the base metal. Stainless is considered a noble metal, so galvanic reaction isn't a concern. I've never had a problem with this combination.
        "Nobody goes there anymore, it's too crowded" -Yogi Berra
        GS Valve Shim Club http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=122394
        1978 GS1000EC Back home with DJ
        1979 GS1000SN The new hope
        1986 VFR700F2 Recycled

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          #5
          It's been a while, but I was once told that "if your screw ( or stud) goes in at least as deep as the diameter, anything deeper is wasted material and $, and does not make it stronger. "
          But that may have been with similar materials, which you don't have.
          SO I guess i'm not helping, am I ?
          1980 GS1000G - The Beast - GOING... GOING... yup, it's gone. I'm bikeless !!! GAaaahh !!!
          1978 KZ1000C1 Police - GONE !
          1983 GPZ750, aka ZX750A1 - restored, fresh paint... Gave it back, it was a loaner !!!
          Check My Albums for some of the 30+ headaches I've dealt with

          I know -JUST- enough to make me REALLY dangerous !


          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Ghostgs1 View Post
            Stainless steel is used in electrical connections where aluminum is the base metal. Stainless is considered a noble metal, so galvanic reaction isn't a concern. I've never had a problem with this combination.
            Stainless in aluminum is BAD. Anti-seize is necessary.

            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

            Comment


              #7
              loctite on the studs into the head, it still provides a barrier between the s/s and the ali and will prevent the studs from screwing out when removing the nuts.
              anti seize on the nuts.
              1978 GS1085.

              Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

              Comment


                #8
                thanks all!

                I found an engineering guide on Practical machinist which said a stud should be inserted to a depth 2.5 times the diameter. I think that spreads the load and no more strength is obtained until going to a larger diameter stud. with about 20mm inserted, looks like I need the 50mm studs which are available on ebay from jonsautoshack. He's a nice guy and swapping my 40mm at no charge.. As for locktite vs the copper antiseize, for sure we want something to protect against galvanic corrosion which might weld the stud into the head. and **** happens so I want to be able to remove the studs. I understand that turning the nuts off might thread the studs out if I don't use Loctite in the head but worried with Loctite, I wont be able to get the studs out. Also jon's autoshack sells the studs with the CU antiseize so that's the route I'm going. Thanks all again!
                1979 gs1000e (everyday) 1977 gs750 for sale
                1983 yam xj550 maxim streetbob sold
                1995 gsx750F everyday fighterjet 1990 gsx1100F for sale
                2000kaw zx600
                2003 BMW K1200GT sport tour
                2000Buel Cyclone M2 motorwork
                1984 Yam venture xvz1200 -long ride/cold ride ride gf ride..
                1978 Honda cb750F3 supersport top end (still)
                1976 Harley FL 3/8" S&S stroker - motor out way too long
                1980 Harley fxs80 - wacked good on this one

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