Bike stumbles after replacing o-rings

[Guest]

Hello--

I just recently found out that my '84 gs1100gk is in fact a gke variant. The more you know I suppose. Anyways, a few days ago I was going to make a post asking why my idle is erratic, when I found the sticky called 'Help! Your bike doesnt run well!'. I did some reading, and decided to replace the intake o-rings with new ones from Mr. Barr. Got them today, along with some new fasteners, cleaned up the crud on the intake boots, and got everything reinstalled. Bike seemed to start easier, but is still a bit cold blooded, which is a bit strange to me. Took the bike for a spin around the block, and I noticed that it now is stumbling over itself while cruising (almost like a miss), and it will not rev up all the way. I'll try my best to explain what it is doing --

Before changing the o-rings, in first gear, it will redline at 60mph around ~9k rpm. After changing the o-rings, around 60% throttle, the bike will do 45mph. If you go any further with the throttle, nothing happens. No sputtering, coughing, nothin. It simply will not go past 45 mph (My tach cable broke, so I cannot reciprocate that to an rpm reading). All the cables are hooked up correctly, and I didn't drop the carbs or damage them.

Now my intake boots are not in the greatest shapes. They are a bit hard, and some of the rubber broke off around the screw holes, but nothing major. Small pieces. Where would I order a new set?

Air filter -- It needs to get replaced. There is a hole through the foam basically rendering it useless (Don't worry, I'm not driving it on long trips till I fix it). Could the air filter be having this big of an impact on the bike running like this?

I do not understand how changing the o-rings would make the bike run worse than it did before. Yeah, before it was running a bit lean, but it did rev up all the way and cruised with no problems. Now, it wont rev up all the way, and stumbles over itself when cruising down the road.

[hillsy]

Are you sure the throttle cable is opening the butterflies all the way?

[SirFoxx]

Are you sure the throttle cable is opening the butterflies all the way?

I would have to double check, but it should be. When I unhooked them, all I did was undue the cable from the throttle arm, then take the two screws out of the top of the carb for the bracket.

[Steve]

Why do you think your bike is a variant? Because it is a 1984 model, the last letter WILL be an "E", so you can call it a 1984 GS1100GK or you can call it a GS1100GKE, they both say the same thing.

Now back to your problem, but we need some more details, too. How long have you had this bike? It's good that you have changed the intake boot o-rings, but they are not a cure-all, they are just PART of the solution.

Have you cleaned and rebuilt the carbs? While you had them out to replace the intake boot o-rings would have been the perfect time to do that.

Have you checked valve clearances? Valves tighten up with use and the specified clearance is dangerously close to zero, so adjustment is critical.
Tight valves are one of the major contributors to hard starting when cold. Dirty carbs would be the other major contributor.

If the boots seem to be a bit hard, replace them. They are not cheap, but they are worth the price. Where to get them? One of my favorite vendors (and of many others) is Parts Outlaw. They are about $28 each, but you can save some on shipping. When you get to the checkout window, look for the promo box, enter the word "BANG", shipping will be $1, instead of the usual $9.99.

The hole in the air filter certainly isn't helping anything, but it's probably not hurting as much as you might think.

.

[SirFoxx]

Why do you think your bike is a variant? Because it is a 1984 model, the last letter WILL be an "E", so you can call it a 1984 GS1100GK or you can call it a GS1100GKE, they both say the same thing.

I recently took a close look at the vin plate, and noticed after the gs1100gk, there was a silver box with the letter E in it. Plus, on all the parts websites I've looked at, there is no GK for '84. Only the GKE. Side note -- Back when I was rebuilding the brakes, I ordered the rear caliper seal from two different websites, both the same part number, and they were both too small. Maybe the GKE used a bigger rear caliper?

Now back to your problem, but we need some more details, too. How long have you had this bike? It's good that you have changed the intake boot o-rings, but they are not a cure-all, they are just PART of the solution.

Have you cleaned and rebuilt the carbs? While you had them out to replace the intake boot o-rings would have been the perfect time to do that.

I figured as much so. I at least thought that they would have helped with the idle, and not affect the driveability of the bike. I've only had the bike for a few months, rarely riding it since I got it. Before I got it, it had been sitting for the last 15 years. Hence the barely riding it. I sent the carbs off to a local forum member / guru, and he cleaned and rebuilt them for me. I got them back, and the bike ran.

Have you checked valve clearances? Valves tighten up with use and the specified clearance is dangerously close to zero, so adjustment is critical.
Tight valves are one of the major contributors to hard starting when cold. Dirty carbs would be the other major contributor.

I have not checked the valves. The bike starts easily with the choke, but the choke had to remain partially on until the bike got hot...After replacing the o-rings, itll start with choke, and I can release the choke after a few seconds, but still have to wait due to the bike not wanting to rev with the choke off. Where can I find a guide on how to adjust the valves, along with the clearances? Are they bucket/shim, or do they use an adjuster nut?

If the boots seem to be a bit hard, replace them. They are not cheap, but they are worth the price. Where to get them? One of my favorite vendors (and of many others) is Parts Outlaw. They are about $28 each, but you can save some on shipping. When you get to the checkout window, look for the promo box, enter the word "BANG", shipping will be $1, instead of the usual $9.99.

Gah, should have seen this 20 minutes ago. I just ordered new boots from partzilla, with similar pricing except on shipping. Side note -- I didnt know there was a left and right intake boot. They all looked the same to me. Could this cause any issues?

The hole in the air filter certainly isn't helping anything, but it's probably not hurting as much as you might think.

Thats kinda what I figured. I know on my old honda, itll bog without the filter, but still will be operable.

[robertbarr]

I've only had the bike for a few months, rarely riding it since I got it. Before I got it, it had been sitting for the last 15 years. Hence the barely riding it. I sent the carbs off to a local forum member / guru, and he cleaned and rebuilt them for me. I got them back, and the bike ran.

I have not checked the valves. The bike starts easily with the choke, but the choke had to remain partially on until the bike got hot...After replacing the o-rings, itll start with choke, and I can release the choke after a few seconds, but still have to wait due to the bike not wanting to rev with the choke off.

Where can I find a guide on how to adjust the valves, along with the clearances? http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

.

First: Get the valve clearances right, to avoid damage & have a consistent baseline. After that, I'd suggest seat time. Put a thousand miles on it (really easy to do!) and see if that doesn't correct some problems.

[SirFoxx]

First: Get the valve clearances right, to avoid damage & have a consistent baseline. After that, I'd suggest seat time. Put a thousand miles on it (really easy to do!) and see if that doesn't correct some problems.

Where would I find the procedure and clearances to adjust the valves?

[Steve]

I recently took a close look at the vin plate, and noticed after the gs1100gk, there was a silver box with the letter E in it. Plus, on all the parts websites I've looked at, there is no GK for '84. Only the GKE.

As I mentioned earlier, the E in the silver box is the proof that it is an '84 model 1100GK. If it had been an '83 model, it would have a D in the silver box. If it had been an '82 model, it would have a Z.

I have not checked the valves. The bike starts easily with the choke, but the choke had to remain partially on until the bike got hot...After replacing the o-rings, itll start with choke, and I can release the choke after a few seconds, but still have to wait due to the bike not wanting to rev with the choke off.

It is quite typical to need the "choke" when starting. Usually about half, sometimes a bit more. Do NOT use any throttle while starting the bike on "choke". Adjust idle speed with the "choke" lever. A cold engine has trouble responding to quick throttle application, that is how I judge when it's ready to ride, but my bikes are ready to go after about half a minute. By the time I am in third gear halfway down the block, I turn the "choke" off.

I didnt know there was a left and right intake boot. They all looked the same to me. Could this cause any issues?

Yes, definite issues. Angles and mounting bolts will be wrong. How did you order from Partzilla? I just looked, they don't list the 1100GK in the model selector.
In fact, I also looked at '83 and '82, no listing there for a GK, either.

Where would I find the procedure and clearances to adjust the valves?

Have you been given the keys to the "library"? Click HERE to go to BassCliff's site, where you will find virtually anything you need to know about a GS. Once you are there, you will see the Service Manual section right there in the middle. There are a couple of entries for an 1100GK, not sure what the difference is between them. You can also scroll down the left column a bit, you will see an entry called Valve Adjustment 8-valve. That is a great supplement to the procedure in the service manual. Be sure to also check out the entry right below it called Zip Tie Supplement. It shows how to hold the valves open with a zip tie instead of purchasing the "special tool".

.

[SirFoxx]

As I mentioned earlier, the E in the silver box is the proof that it is an '84 model 1100GK. If it had been an '83 model, it would have a D in the silver box. If it had been an '82 model, it would have a Z.

Ah. That makes sense.

It is quite typical to need the "choke" when starting. Usually about half, sometimes a bit more. Do NOT use any throttle while starting the bike on "choke". Adjust idle speed with the "choke" lever. A cold engine has trouble responding to quick throttle application, that is how I judge when it's ready to ride, but my bikes are ready to go after about half a minute. By the time I am in third gear halfway down the block, I turn the "choke" off.

The same can be said about my Honda. However, my choke lever does not stay in one place, which makes it hard to hold it on, use the throttle, and feather the clutch at the same time. [/quote]

Yes, definite issues. Angles and mounting bolts will be wrong. How did you order from Partzilla? I just looked, they don't list the 1100GK in the model selector.
In fact, I also looked at '83 and '82, no listing there for a GK, either.

Uhhhhhhmm welp that may be part of my problem. I took them all off, didn't take a close enough look at them to notice any differences, and slapped them back on with no issues. How can I tell which ones are left, and which ones are right? As for ordering, I ordered for the '84 gke. Bike Bandit has the '83 gk, and the two part numbers are the same for the intake boots.

Have you been given the keys to the "library"? Click HERE to go to BassCliff's site, where you will find virtually anything you need to know about a GS. Once you are there, you will see the Service Manual section right there in the middle. There are a couple of entries for an 1100GK, not sure what the difference is between them. You can also scroll down the left column a bit, you will see an entry called Valve Adjustment 8-valve. That is a great supplement to the procedure in the service manual. Be sure to also check out the entry right below it called Zip Tie Supplement. It shows how to hold the valves open with a zip tie instead of purchasing the "special tool".

Ah yes, I forgot about that website. I used the site when looking up how to possibly repair my cdi box. I will take a look at the website and make another separate post if I have questions.