Replace intake boots?

[Guest]

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After a year of my poor 81 gs650g sitting in the driveway I'm committing to cleaning the carbs. The biggest problem I've encountered so far is getting the hoses off and removing the carbs from the intake boots. I ended up just cutting the hoses from the petcock (the internet told me it's cheaper/safer/easier than muscling them off). Now I'm wondering if my intake boots need to be replaced? I can't get the carbs off (I know there are threads on how to do that). Based on the picture abov should I spend the $$ to replace them? The rubber around the screws was dry and flaking off. Actually, I'm just gonna go ahead and ask...how the hell do I get the carbs off the intake boots? Heat? WD-40?

[cowboyup3371]

I would definitely replace those boots and while you are at it get the correct clamps from the dealer when you do. Have you loosened the air box clamps and slid the airbox as far back as possible? You may need to loosen the rear fender and slide it back to give you some extra room. Then loosen those clamps on the engine side and pull them out - you may have to get a little he-manish with them. Be sure to disconnect your throttle and choke cables then slide the carbs out the right side.

[GS1150Pilot]

Replace them and make life easier. Peace of mind, no matter what.

[ukjules]

I use a heat gun ( not too hot ) and
the night before some good penetrating oil ( better than wd40 )
sprayed up where it's stuck.

Also as I am the poorest of contributors ...
to re use some rubber bits I soak them overnight
in xylene.
A rock hard tube will be soft in the morning.
( I take risks so do this but it works if you have no other choice )

Agree with rest re removal.
Real mudguard and airbox pulled back helps.

[Redman]

How to get carbs off the intake boots?
Pull, wiggle, tilt, pull, pull, wiggle, pull carbs back.
But first undo the clamps, and unbolt the air box so can move it back to give the carbs some wiggle room.

Oh, a 650... I did that once on a 650, I recall thier being a lot less room there than 850 and 1100. Maybe that is what cowboy is talking about (he has 550s).

And just as imprtants as the boots themself, or maybe more improtatnt, is the o-rings in the boot (up against the engine).
Get the o-rings from "cycle o-ring" (a fine member here), and also a set of replacement screws from him also (you are likley to bugger up the existing ones to get them loose).

[jjbmxer]

carb removal

How to get carbs off the intake boots?
Pull, wiggle, tilt, pull, pull, wiggle, pull carbs back.
But first undo the clamps, and unbolt the air box so can move it back to give the carbs some wiggle room.

Oh, a 650... I did that once on a 650, I recall thier being a lot less room there than 850 and 1100. Maybe that is what cowboy is talking about (he hashe said.pu

And just as imprtants as the boots themself, or maybe more improtatnt, is the o-rings in the boot (up against the engine).
Get the o-rings from "cycle o-ring" (a fine member here), and also a set of replacement screws from him also (you are likley to bugger up the existing ones to get them loose).

what he said and use Pblaster it stinks so spare the stuff.

[Gila Monster]

Thanks for all the knowledge! I just ordered an O-ring kit and 16mm screws from cycle-oring. Now, for the rest of the boots, is this a good source http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemp.../cylinder-head or is there a better/cheaper source you all know of? So having bought the o-rings and screws is it right that I still need to order numbers 20-23 and 25 to fully replace the intake boots?

[cowboyup3371]

I personally use PartsOutlaw.com out of Florida as I believe they have the best prices. You only need 20, 21, and 25 as the new boots should already include 22 and 23; or at least they have every time I buy them.

While you are at it, when was your last valve adjustment? If you haven't done one than I recommend getting a new valve cover gasket and doing that job now too.

[Gila Monster]

Replace with this valve cover gasket? https://realgaskets.com/product/valv...gasket-gs-650/ and also breather cover gasket? https://realgaskets.com/product/brea...over-gasket-2/ I have no idea when/if the valves were adjusted, which I assume means they should be. Valve adjustment means doing the version of this appropriate for my bike? http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...lve_adjust.pdf Thanks again!

[cowboyup3371]

Your bike has the tach drive in the valve cover itself when means the RealGasket won't seal properly based on many people's experience. I would personally strongly recommend staying OEM for it; you can get it at Parts Outlaw for about the total price as that Real Gasket and you'll KNOW it fits correctly (http://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/...er-f-no-103561)
Valve Cover GASKET part # - 11173-34212 price - $30.02

Breather Cover GASKET part # 11177-47001-H17 price - $7.07


Yes, follow the procedures in that article on Basscliff's site being careful not to turn the engine over without a shim or suitable temporary substitute (some people use coins) in every cylinder. You can get shims through the GS Shim Club and I would reach out to Steve on this forum (real name and screen name) for his valve adjustment spreadsheet

[Redman]

Your bike has the tach drive in the valve cover itself when means the RealGasket won't seal properly based on many people's experience. I would personally strongly recommend staying OEM for it; .................t

My understanding of the concern is not that it will not seal. It seals real well. The concern is that it is so much thicker than stock that if the cover has the tach gear drive, the cover will be held up a little higher and the gears dont mess entirly as they should, leading to long term reliability problems. (Which I have yet to experience in 10s and 10s of thousand of miles, but maybe is gonna puke here next week as far as I know.).

Other concern is that the real gasket is so thick and squishy-rubbery that the bolts can loosen up over time, and have to be retourqued about once a season... that I have expereinced, or tthe cover will leak... that, that, I have expereinced.
And if tourgue to original specs it can deform the cover, so have to use the very low torgue specs that come with the gasket... which is also why it can loosen up over time. But is real nice for future removing the cover for the valve adjust, and reusing the gasket.

Speaking ov valve cover gasket.... this real gasket is pretty much the oppositie of what I see in your picture. I see lots of that hard tacky gasket sealer slopping out (which makes me wonder about what might be hanging inside) that will have to scrap off the gasket in pieces every time. The real gasket is a big thick rubbery gasket that can be reused with no gasket sealer... and reused multiple times.
ANd then the discussion goes even further from your original point, ... to the subject of how often should be checking the valve adjustment.

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