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Gs1100gl Running on two cylinders
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Gs1100gl Running on two cylinders
Good day - New to this forum and have been reading - Working on a 82 GS1100GL - Started with helping a young fellow at work and turned into a obsession to get it running correctly - Was setting for 12 years and he bought it from his uncle - cleaned carbs and got running, was blowing main fuse and found and replaced bad rectifier - I can get it running but 1 and 4 are for the most part dead - can get a bit of life by covering air passage in carbs. due to the problem cylinder are on the same coil pack would like to check/swap before going through the carbs again - spark does look good w/ a in line tester installed on dead cylinders - UPDATE -------- With help from a member here swapped coil packs w/ same problem - just sprayed a bit of start fluid around intake boots and rpm changed - removed boots and ordered o-rings and clamps today ( clamps did not tighten very well ) - Thinking about putting a small amount of sealer on boot to carb contact area at assembly. At this time waiting on parts but any input would be great. Compression is a tad low but even on all 4 cylinders. This is the first motorcycle forum I have joined - thought the link to a service manual was great. Thank you much RonTags: None
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A few thoughts:
1. Have you checked valve clearances? Tight valves (the usual scenario) will lower compression, just before they overheat and destroy themselves.
2. When you got your compression numbers, were you holding the throttle wide open?
3. Your loose clamp situation will not be improved with new clamps. The problem is worn out boots, which shrink and harden.
4. No need for sealer on boots, just use new orings, available from cycleorings.com.
5. Your loss of two cylinders is probably electrical, specifically the ignitor.If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.
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IRONKICKER
Yoa momoa
Originally posted by who dat? View Posta few thoughts:
1. Have you checked valve clearances? Tight valves (the usual scenario) will lower compression, just before they overheat and destroy themselves.
2. When you got your compression numbers, were you holding the throttle wide open?
3. Your loose clamp situation will not be improved with new clamps. The problem is worn out boots, which shrink and harden.
4. No need for sealer on boots, just use new orings, available from cycleorings.com.
5. Your loss of two cylinders is probably electrical, specifically the ignitor.
valve clearance is next have a 69 honda - not starting when hot - clearance may be next
compression - bad battery not wide open
igniter - next step after o'rings
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IRONKICKER
Ok hope this i the place for this
valve clearance is next have a 69 honda - not starting when hot - clearance may be next
compression - bad battery not wide open
igniter - next step after o'rings
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IRONKICKER
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Originally posted by IRONKICKER View PostThank you for your thoughts - if you do not listen then don't ask
Some suggestions were made. They were entirely factual, no judgemental statements.
Then YOU bring up mention of another bike (which happens to be non-Suzuki).
And you accuse me of not listening?If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.
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IRONKICKER
Asking for help
Sorry about that should not post when in a hurry
- The listening quote was thanking you for your help ( I am listing to what you say )
- The Honda was in reference/confirm that tight valves can cause start/run problems
- I need to do some homework on igniter - Not sure on how to check or why it did not change when the coil swap was done
- Will be more careful on my posts
Thanks Ron
Originally posted by Who Dat? View PostThis is a bit confusing. You post up that you have some problems with an 1100GL.
Some suggestions were made. They were entirely factual, no judgemental statements.
Then YOU bring up mention of another bike (which happens to be non-Suzuki).
And you accuse me of not listening?
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IRONKICKER
Update on the 1982 GS1100L not running on # 1 and # 4 cylinders.
Intake clamps and seals came yesterday.
-- New clamps was the answer to tighten boots ( carb to head )
-- Cleaned and new o' rings on boots ( I believe this was the main problem )
-- Resealed air box
Runs as it should, Will sync carbs today and fine tune although I am not sure it could run any better
Thank you to the fellow that supplied good information on the coil swap/test
Also many thanks to BIKECLIFFS Website also had valuable information
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