Idle changes when bike is hot

[mmattockx]

Alright shims are all within spec now, did some shuffling. Thank god for notes!
I split the head cover gasket though, ordered a new one so should be hear in a week

Guess I should lube that gasket with motor oil before putting it on, it got bake on and destroyed when I opened the head
oh well

I put a thin coating of grease on both sides before installing a new one and they usually last 2-3 valve check cycles before leaking or tearing. Make sure you are torquing the valve cover bolts correctly as well. Over torquing them crushes the gasket and makes it leak faster.


Mark

[ehkmcveh]

I put a thin coating of grease on both sides before installing a new one and they usually last 2-3 valve check cycles before leaking or tearing. Make sure you are torquing the valve cover bolts correctly as well. Over torquing them crushes the gasket and makes it leak faster.


Mark

Ok yeah, just some all purpose grease. Ok ill give that a shot. Thanks

[ehkmcveh]

Ok back from vacation, gonna pick up gaskets tomorrow (closed today )

Found the timing on the bike out, can't confirm exactly how much because I was playing with it quite a bit, looked like a couple teeth. Its good now
My question is, is the an interference engine or not? Could the timing out cause damage/ bad compression?

[hannibal]

Yes it's an interference engine. Don't ask me how I know. Incorrect timing can certainly cause damage and poor compression readings if the intake valves are open on the compression stroke.

[ehkmcveh]

Yes it's an interference engine. Don't ask me how I know. Incorrect timing can certainly cause damage and poor compression readings if the intake valves are open on the compression stroke.

Hmmmm... I have heard the odd ping come from within the engine....o boy. Wonder if a valve bent??
I am putting it back together to day,

Re checked shims, some are 0.10mm on the outake.

[hannibal]

I think your timing would have to be pretty far off to bend a valve. I don't think 1 or 2 teeth would be enough.

0.1mm isn't bad. Many folks prefer to run on the looser side, even above the recommended upper limit of 0.08mm.

[steve murdoch]

Hmmmm... I have heard the odd ping come from within the engine....o boy. Wonder if a valve bent??
I am putting it back together to day,

Re checked shims, some are 0.10mm on the outake.

A bent valve does not "ping". It will bang and clatter....and as hannibal mentioned, don't ask me how i know.

[ehkmcveh]

Ok got the timing sorted, added quite a bit more power!
Idles a lot better now too, dances a bit between 1100 rpm and 1600rpm. This is when the engine is good and hot. I'm good with that
Ended up getting new airbox intake boot clamps and engine boot clamps also, it seems to be sealed pretty good. Returns to idle a lot better

Did another plug chop. For the Pilot circuit ( 4th gear at 30MPH for like 4 miles ), the plugs are now black! Incredible difference

Set the pilot fuel screws to 1 1/8, air screws 1 1/2Low 4.jpg
This is the worst one.

Mid is little white ish (2nd clip from bottom), Full is white ,mostly on cylinder 2 and 3, have 105 mains ordered

[mmattockx]

Idles a lot better now too, dances a bit between 1100 rpm and 1600rpm.

Good to hear things are improving. The idle shouldn't dance much at all, so you still have some tweaking to do. On my 1100E I have a digital tach and the warm idle varies about +/-50rpm at most from 1100rpm. On an analog tach you would barely see the needle moving off 1100.

Did another plug chop. For the Pilot circuit ( 4th gear at 30MPH for like 4 miles ), the plugs are now black! Incredible difference

Set the pilot fuel screws to 1 1/8, air screws 1 1/2[ATTACH=CONFIG]52765[/ATTACH]
This is the worst one.

Mid is little white ish (2nd clip from bottom), Full is white ,mostly on cylinder 2 and 3, have 105 mains ordered

Realize that modern unleaded fuel doesn't read like the old stuff. It runs much cleaner and tends towards always looking lean until you are slobbering rich. If you get any brown on the insulator at all and a dark ring on the steel plug body at the threads you are doing ok with it. GregT had a post on this a few weeks back somewhere here and he knows his stuff when it comes to tuning these machines.


Mark

[ehkmcveh]

Realize that modern unleaded fuel doesn't read like the old stuff. It runs much cleaner and tends towards always looking lean until you are slobbering rich. If you get any brown on the insulator at all and a dark ring on the steel plug body at the threads you are doing ok with it. GregT had a post on this a few weeks back somewhere here and he knows his stuff when it comes to tuning these machines.


Mark

Nice, I will have to give that a read.
My main circuit shows the metal tip white on cylinder 2 and 3, so I'm pretty certain that it needs a 105 (102.5 currently)
Don't want to cause any damage after all this work lol . Sure rips though!

[ehkmcveh]

Full 3.jpgForgot the photo

[mmattockx]

Nice, I will have to give that a read.
My main circuit shows the metal tip white on cylinder 2 and 3, so I'm pretty certain that it needs a 105 (102.5 currently)
Don't want to cause any damage after all this work lol . Sure rips though!

I went and tracked the thread down, it was in the Performance/Mods/Tuning forum: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ons&highlight=

[ATTACH=CONFIG]52769[/ATTACH]Forgot the photo

I would say that still is pretty rich, but I agree that you don't want to burn something up running on the lean side of things. My 1100E plugs are much less dark than that, running on premium pump fuel with no ethanol.


Mark

[ehkmcveh]

I would say that still is pretty rich, but I agree that you don't want to burn something up running on the lean side of things. My 1100E plugs are much less dark than that, running on premium pump fuel with no ethanol.


Mark

Ah took a read through it. interesting. Yeah I didn't test my Main first. I went pilot/needle/main
Is it possible that all that black is from my pilot test?...That it didn't get quite burned up during the needle/main to get the true colour. I guess the best way would be with new plugs.

That tip looks pretty white! but according to GregT in that post I am only looking at the outer ring?
The tip in the GregT post was a more of a Tan colour.

I try and run Petro Canada 91, I think that has Ethanol in it? I know the 94 is 100% gas. I guess i should be testing with that. I see you are from alberta so you could confirm
Right now for this test though I have Shell 91 in it right now.

I almost should start a new thread for this

[mmattockx]

That tip looks pretty white! but according to GregT in that post I am only looking at the outer ring?
The tip in the GregT post was a more of a Tan colour.

Yeah, those plugs looked scary to me but GregT seemed unconcerned and he has looked at many, many sets that were tuned with instrumentation on a dyno. That's why I said if you have a bit of tan on the insulator and the dark ring you aren't too terrible with modern fuels.

I try and run Petro Canada 91, I think that has Ethanol in it? I know the 94 is 100% gas. I guess i should be testing with that. I see you are from alberta so you could confirm
Right now for this test though I have Shell 91 in it right now.

I am in Didsbury. Each station has its own formulation for fuel so you have to check and see what they say it has. I think most premium (91 octane) is ethanol free here, but you have to read the fine print for each brand. Anything less than premium will be 10-15% (I think it is) ethanol.


Mark

[bobgroger]

Your bike should never idle at 1100rpm when cold just off the choke. My 1100E idles at about 800-850rpm when dead cold, 1100rpm when warmed up. Try turning your idle down to 1100rpm when warm, then see what happens when cold. I do agree with others that your pilot circuits sound lean, but get your warm idle down to 1100rpm first and work from there.




Your pilot circuit is lean.


Mark

/\ That. Adjust for best operation hot. A good running GS will need the choke on for a few blocks, at least with CV carbs.