Bike Finally Running - Header Pipe #2 Warm Not Hot - Cylinder Firing?

[UKPR1]

Thanks for chiming in London and Kiwi (hope you both played Rugby...).

London - I hear you. I just despise "one of these things is not like the other". And the fact that I can pull the plug lead off with no change, well...I don't like it, to say the least. Maybe I will try a quick trip - have the front brake to bleed and get right first, though.
Kiwi - I'm really good at pulling the carbs now and if the quick run doesn't free things up, then I'll pop the bottom off of that carb and see if anything is blocked. Shouldn't be hard.

Thank you, Gents.

[londonboards]

My bikes are often like that after a winter lay over but they clear once you give them a good blast.

I think what you are referring to is the carb bowl choke pick up circuit. I've had problems with these too:

http://suzukigs1150es.blogspot.co.uk...ry-system.html

They only provide fuel when the choke is on. So by all means check them but it more likely it's an idle circuit that is blocked. That's why a good blast down the highway (using needle jet and main jet) will either clear it out or confirm the situation.

[chuck hahn]

Still have the stock caps??? Look in the cap and youll see the connector that engages the plug is slotted. Under that connector is a ceramic resistor. remove the slotted piece and dump the resistor out into your hand. Replace the resistor with a similarly thick hunk of heavy copper wire, brass rod, or even steel rod. If the resistor fails then your not gonna get spark on that plug. I automatically remove the resistors on all my bikes im building before i even check for spark....resistors arent needed and they suckk

[Fjbj40]

Does it get hot when say you hold it at 4-5000 rpm? If so then the pilot circuit may be plugged. You already confirmed its not spark by swapping plugs and 1 to 4 ignition lead swap. To further trouble shoot you can also swap the power feeding your coils and swap the leads to the correct cylinders. In other words make the 2&3 coil fire the 1&4 plugs.

[UKPR1]

It definitely does get hotter, but still doesn't match the temps of the others. But I think there is definitely combustion taking place in #4 at higher RPMs. Just for giggles, I did pull off the carb set, measured what was in the carb bowl after I cut the fuel supply off and ran it till it stalled (don't know why I thought to measure the fuel from each bowl under that scenario - no idea what that would tell me...) The picture is attached. Blew out some passages and bolted them back on. Will run it tomorrow to see if there is a difference and will try reversing the coils as you've suggest and perhaps remove the resistors. If none of that works, I will get the bike rideable and see if a hot-buttered run does the trick. Thanks for hanging with me through all of this guys. You've all been very helpful.

Cheers,

Geoff

DSC07902.jpg

[UKPR1]

Just wanted to report back that I re-poked the brass tube with wire and re-blew the passageway in the float bowl, and magic. My #4 header matches the others and all 4 cylinders are firing at idle at least...
Thanks for your collective help!

Regards,

Geoff

[Kiwi Canuck]

Just wanted to report back that I re-poked the brass tube with wire and re-blew the passageway in the float bowl, and magic. My #4 header matches the others and all 4 cylinders are firing at idle at least...
Thanks for your collective help!

Regards,

Geoff

Nice work, good to hear you fixed the problem.

Cheers,

David.