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Anyone use the universal Mikuni carb mounting flanges on bikebandit for 1982 gs650l?

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    Anyone use the universal Mikuni carb mounting flanges on bikebandit for 1982 gs650l?

    I'm thinking to replace the old intake boots on my gs650l and saw the universal flanges bikebandit offers to be much cheaper. My only thoughts are will they be a problem since the original intakes have a slight curve and I'm not sure these do? If someone has tried them and found them to work please let me know. On the other hand let me know if there's a reason why there seems to be no talk about them anywhere online as far as i can find. OEM is an option but see no reason if they can be replaced for much cheaper. Also, off hand anyone know the measurement from bolt center to bolt center and overall depth on the originals? No big deal if not it's just I'm not in a place to take a measurement right now. Thanks.

    (Intake boots I'm referencing) https://www.bikebandit.com/aftermark.../23623?m=21388

    #2
    Are your vacuum sync ports in the head? I don't see any on those boots.
    Roger

    Current rides
    1983 GS 850G
    1982 GS1100GK

    https://visitedstatesmap.com/image/AZARCACOIDILINKSMONVNMOKTXUTWYsm.jpg Gone but not forgotten 1985 Rebel 250, 1991 XT225, 2004 KLR650, 1981 GS850G, 1982 GS1100GL, 2002 DL1000, 2005 KLR650, 2003 KLX400, 2003 FJR1300

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      #3
      No, they're on the boots themselves. I didn't really think of them when considering the boots. How important are they if everything is set before the replacement? Honestly I'm looking to just get rid of any possible leaks down the road as I don't have any issues right now just realized they are pretty old and hard. I'm not entirely sure but I could possibly put ports in them if needed at a later date. I only payed $100 for a bike that didn't run due to the petcock and an owner that didn't think to see if it was getting fuel so in all honesty I'm not looking to pour another 100 or so into rubber that doesn't absolutely have to be replaced at this point just figured i would if it were cheap enough since I'm going to have to later on and I've already got the carbs pulled. The least I put into it the more I can make if and when i decide to sell it. Cosmetic fixes is really all that's 100% needed everything else is in tip top other than hardened rubber boots. Before pulling the carbs I had no leaks but after putting them back on may be a different story IDK. (Disclaimer) Please correct me in any ignorance shown in my statements as I am 100% new to anything that doesn't have a hood and 4 wheels.

      Comment


        #4
        They are very important. You can get close with a bench sync but need to vacuum sync to your engine. In fact, after adjusting any valve clearances they may need to be synched again. It's not a one and done thing but periodic maintenance. If you try to add ports later you will most likely create more of a hassle than it's worth. A tiny air leak will create a lean condition and you'll go mad trying to correct it. Beware of using regular hose clamps too. OEM stuff here is really the best option, including the O-rings under the boots.
        Roger

        Current rides
        1983 GS 850G
        1982 GS1100GK

        https://visitedstatesmap.com/image/AZARCACOIDILINKSMONVNMOKTXUTWYsm.jpg Gone but not forgotten 1985 Rebel 250, 1991 XT225, 2004 KLR650, 1981 GS850G, 1982 GS1100GL, 2002 DL1000, 2005 KLR650, 2003 KLX400, 2003 FJR1300

        Comment


          #5
          Ahh, I really appreciate the reply I had no idea it would need to be synced again after shim replacement and whatnot. That's what's so great about this site so I don't buy stuff that'll cause me more of a problem that fixing it. Guessing ebay is the cheapest option for OEM? I see $90 a set including o-rings every day any websites that can beat it?

          Comment


            #6
            Parts Outlaw is one of the cheapest OEM parts source sights. I wouldn't buy aftermarket unless you have to.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

            Comment


              #7
              I have ran them on my bike for 4 years with no issues but a 78 GS1000 has the sync ports in the head. They are made by Mikuni so that is a little better reputation than your average aftermarket source. One concern I had was they do not use o-rings but no problems thus far and the rubber is still soft.
              1978 GS 1000 (pods, V&H 4 to 1, Dyna S, Dyna coils, stage 3 jet kit, Progressive springs, relay mod, 530 chain, Honda regulator, clutch basket welded and shimmed)
              1970 Honda C70

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                Parts Outlaw is one of the cheapest OEM parts source sights. I wouldn't buy aftermarket unless you have to.
                Yep, click HERE, you will see that they are only $29.85 each. Yeah, that's about $7 more for each one, but for less than $30 difference, you are guaranteed to have the right part.

                .
                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                Family Portrait
                Siblings and Spouses
                Mom's first ride
                Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by leftlostcommonsense View Post
                  No, they're on the boots themselves. I didn't really think of them when considering the boots. How important are they if everything is set before the replacement? Honestly I'm looking to just get rid of any possible leaks down the road as I don't have any issues right now just realized they are pretty old and hard. I'm not entirely sure but I could possibly put ports in them if needed at a later date. I only payed $100 for a bike that didn't run due to the petcock and an owner that didn't think to see if it was getting fuel so in all honesty I'm not looking to pour another 100 or so into rubber that doesn't absolutely have to be replaced at this point just figured i would if it were cheap enough since I'm going to have to later on and I've already got the carbs pulled. The least I put into it the more I can make if and when i decide to sell it. Cosmetic fixes is really all that's 100% needed everything else is in tip top other than hardened rubber boots. Before pulling the carbs I had no leaks but after putting them back on may be a different story IDK. (Disclaimer) Please correct me in any ignorance shown in my statements as I am 100% new to anything that doesn't have a hood and 4 wheels.
                  If you are not looking to spend AT LEAST $1000 to make the bike reliable and safe get rid of it now. Most new members, myself included, figured we would do the minimum possible to get out riding. After you pay the tow truck driver a few times, and maybe crash you will change your tune. This is the MINIMUM: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ewbie-Mistakes
                  sigpic
                  09 Kaw C14 Rocket powered Barcalounger
                  1983 GS1100e
                  82\83 1100e Frankenbike
                  1980 GS1260
                  Previous 65 Suzuki 80 Scrambler, 76 KZ900, 02 GSF1200S, 81 GS1100e, 80 GS850G

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I understand what you mean about making sure the bike is safe. There is possibly no way on earth I would invest $1000 in this bike without throwing away tons of parts with absolutely nothing wrong with them. If the bike needed it that's a different story but I really got a perfect bike with absolutely nothing wrong with it except tires and the paint job and plugged petcock. According to the title and previous owner it's only switched hands one time before I got it and the guy that had it beforehand took excellent care of it. The only things I've found to be an issue has been hardened rubber intakes but absolutely everything else such a brake lines have been replaced and are still in tip top condition even all the small springs and stuff that would normally rust are in perfect condition. I bought the bike for $100 thinking it would take a while to get it running but after making sure it had gas it fired up immediately. I have never had such luck with anything I've bought to tell the truth so I kind of feel like I stole the bike to be honest...

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