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    1978 GS750 Fuel Line

    I am a new GS750 owner. Is this original equipment on this bike or is this a band-aid put on by an owner who had a rusty gas tank? This is the line from petcock to carbs. The inline filter is inside another hose that connects to the carburetors. That hose is removed in this picture.

    F48A598B-FA36-43BF-AE06-CFE73E2522BA.jpg

    #2
    Not original. Check the fishe at partzilla if you want more confirmation.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

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      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      Not original. Check the fishe at partzilla if you want more confirmation.
      Thanks. I think I will replace with regular fuel line.

      Comment


        #4
        A good opportunity to check the filter you are removing for rust particles.
        Maybe check the tank and filter on the petcock for debris.
        2@ \'78 GS1000

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by steve murdoch View Post
          A good opportunity to check the filter you are removing for rust particles.
          Maybe check the tank and filter on the petcock for debris.
          Definitely particles there.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by afraziaaaa View Post
            Definitely particles there.
            Sounds like a good time to derust the tank before matters deteriorate.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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              #7
              Put new fuel and vacuum lines on from petcock to carbs. I had them laying around in the garage. Previous vac line was too big and idle was a bit jumpy when it would idle. Previously was hard to start and stay running.

              With the new lines the bike fired immediately.

              Tank is on the to do list without a doubt.

              Comment


                #8
                This isn't a requirement but I definitely recommend it: get the OEM Suzuki fuel line. It's 7mm, which is just a tad larger than 1/4" and a tad smaller than 5/16, the most commonly available sizes in the auto parts department. The OEM line fits perfectly, does not require a clamp and is very flexible. I've found that 1/4" is too tight and the 5/16" is loose enough that it requires a clamp. The commonly available clear fuel line is also not as flexible and tends to harden with age.

                Cheers!
                K

                Comment


                  #9
                  Clean the tank before running the engine much. Why risk sucking chunks up into the carb jets and have to go through that mess.
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have to concur with Chuck .. if you found debris in the inline filter that means its getting past the petcock screen. That means junk is getting into your carbs potentially clogging them and potentially doing damage to your engine. Its not worth it. You will just be back here in 4 months asking why your bike wont run.

                    There are a number of threads here on rust removal. I used KBS and was happy with the rust removal system and I went as far as tank liner. Tank liner seems to be controversial but you should at least take it through rust removal.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Boriqua View Post
                      I have to concur with Chuck .. if you found debris in the inline filter that means its getting past the petcock screen. That means junk is getting into your carbs potentially clogging them and potentially doing damage to your engine. Its not worth it. You will just be back here in 4 months asking why your bike wont run.

                      There are a number of threads here on rust removal. I used KBS and was happy with the rust removal system and I went as far as tank liner. Tank liner seems to be controversial but you should at least take it through rust removal.
                      thanks for the kbs recommendation. Looks like a good system and simple to use. I think I’ll go for that one.

                      i found that the left points contact was beyond maximum wear. Replaced it and the bike runs fairly smoothly now.

                      im going to rebuild the front end and this will also be a good time to clean the gas tank out.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Replacing points as a set is advisable. That way you know BOTH are the same wear to begin with. Ive never heard of anyone ever replacing just one point of the set. I will carry a worn set of points if Im going on a long trip for emergency use only to get me home or at least off the road side.
                        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                          Replacing points as a set is advisable. That way you know BOTH are the same wear to begin with. Ive never heard of anyone ever replacing just one point of the set. I will carry a worn set of points if Im going on a long trip for emergency use only to get me home or at least off the road side.
                          Thanks for the advice. Consider me an ignition points rebel! You heard it here first...

                          Comment


                            #14
                            And, for just a bit more than the price of OEM points and condensors, you can get a Dyna Electronic ignition and never have to worry about points again.

                            .
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                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Steve View Post
                              And, for just a bit more than the price of OEM points and condensors, you can get a Dyna Electronic ignition and never have to worry about points again.

                              .
                              A bit more, he says! lol

                              Doesn't that require the dyna coils too?

                              Comment

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