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1978 GS750 Fuel Line
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1978 GS750 Fuel Line
I am a new GS750 owner. Is this original equipment on this bike or is this a band-aid put on by an owner who had a rusty gas tank? This is the line from petcock to carbs. The inline filter is inside another hose that connects to the carburetors. That hose is removed in this picture.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35602
- Torrance, CA
Not original. Check the fishe at partzilla if you want more confirmation.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35602
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by afraziaaaa View PostDefinitely particles there.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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afraziaaaa
Put new fuel and vacuum lines on from petcock to carbs. I had them laying around in the garage. Previous vac line was too big and idle was a bit jumpy when it would idle. Previously was hard to start and stay running.
With the new lines the bike fired immediately.
Tank is on the to do list without a doubt.
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This isn't a requirement but I definitely recommend it: get the OEM Suzuki fuel line. It's 7mm, which is just a tad larger than 1/4" and a tad smaller than 5/16, the most commonly available sizes in the auto parts department. The OEM line fits perfectly, does not require a clamp and is very flexible. I've found that 1/4" is too tight and the 5/16" is loose enough that it requires a clamp. The commonly available clear fuel line is also not as flexible and tends to harden with age.
Cheers!
K
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Clean the tank before running the engine much. Why risk sucking chunks up into the carb jets and have to go through that mess.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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Boriqua
I have to concur with Chuck .. if you found debris in the inline filter that means its getting past the petcock screen. That means junk is getting into your carbs potentially clogging them and potentially doing damage to your engine. Its not worth it. You will just be back here in 4 months asking why your bike wont run.
There are a number of threads here on rust removal. I used KBS and was happy with the rust removal system and I went as far as tank liner. Tank liner seems to be controversial but you should at least take it through rust removal.
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afraziaaaa
Originally posted by Boriqua View PostI have to concur with Chuck .. if you found debris in the inline filter that means its getting past the petcock screen. That means junk is getting into your carbs potentially clogging them and potentially doing damage to your engine. Its not worth it. You will just be back here in 4 months asking why your bike wont run.
There are a number of threads here on rust removal. I used KBS and was happy with the rust removal system and I went as far as tank liner. Tank liner seems to be controversial but you should at least take it through rust removal.
i found that the left points contact was beyond maximum wear. Replaced it and the bike runs fairly smoothly now.
im going to rebuild the front end and this will also be a good time to clean the gas tank out.
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Replacing points as a set is advisable. That way you know BOTH are the same wear to begin with. Ive never heard of anyone ever replacing just one point of the set. I will carry a worn set of points if Im going on a long trip for emergency use only to get me home or at least off the road side.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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afraziaaaa
Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostReplacing points as a set is advisable. That way you know BOTH are the same wear to begin with. Ive never heard of anyone ever replacing just one point of the set. I will carry a worn set of points if Im going on a long trip for emergency use only to get me home or at least off the road side.
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And, for just a bit more than the price of OEM points and condensors, you can get a Dyna Electronic ignition and never have to worry about points again.
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hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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afraziaaaa
Originally posted by Steve View PostAnd, for just a bit more than the price of OEM points and condensors, you can get a Dyna Electronic ignition and never have to worry about points again.
.
Doesn't that require the dyna coils too?
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