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1978 GS750 Fuel Line

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    #16
    You CAN get Dyna coils IF you want. Ive put Dynas on and used the stock coils just fine.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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      #17
      You dont need the dyna coils, though I have them on my bike. The swap for electronic ignition is pretty well documented here and is a pretty simple gig. I want to say it was about $120 from memory.

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        #18
        Good to know, thanks to all. I'll keep the dyna ignition in mind for a future upgrade, but won't do it anytime soon. It is something I had already thought about!

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          #19
          So I have the tank off and am in the process of doing the KBS cleaner/liner kit. I just completed the clean portion and am wondering how long most folks allow the tank to air dry before the rust blast step?

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            #20
            Originally posted by afraziaaaa View Post
            So I have the tank off and am in the process of doing the KBS cleaner/liner kit. I just completed the clean portion and am wondering how long most folks allow the tank to air dry before the rust blast step?
            You can do the rust blast fairly soon after the clean. I took a hair dryer and made a little funnel out of some thin cardboard and with a large opening that just fit in the tank. I duct taped it to the hairdryer and with the gas sensor removed and petcock out I let the hair dryer on low for 15-20 minutes to help speed things up

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              #21
              Don't do that with a heat gun. Will cook your paint.

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                #22
                My paint is garbage anyway!

                It's already been 24 hours since I emptied the clean. I was thinking of giving it a rinse this evening and letting it dry at least another 24.

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                  #23
                  The "rust blast" sauce is phosphoric acid, which is water soluble. No clue why they reference allowing the tank to dry after cleaning since this doesn't matter. What does matter though is that you fully derust your tank before sealing. Keep the rust blast in the tank and keep the surface WET until ALL the rust is GONE. Look inside the tank and use a mirror on a stick with a flashlight to look carefully (don't forget the top of the tank) before calling the derusting done. You can reuse the phosphoric acid again so I'd recycle it. Rinse well with water. Really well. And then after dumping out the water I recommend a couple bottles of isopropyl alcohol to help remove all the water.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                    The "rust blast" sauce is phosphoric acid, which is water soluble. No clue why they reference allowing the tank to dry after cleaning since this doesn't matter. What does matter though is that you fully derust your tank before sealing. Keep the rust blast in the tank and keep the surface WET until ALL the rust is GONE. Look inside the tank and use a mirror on a stick with a flashlight to look carefully (don't forget the top of the tank) before calling the derusting done. You can reuse the phosphoric acid again so I'd recycle it. Rinse well with water. Really well. And then after dumping out the water I recommend a couple bottles of isopropyl alcohol to help remove all the water.
                    Excellent points about being water soluble and using IPA to dry it out. Thanks for those tips. I think it's possible to finish the derust portion tonight then, and maybe do the sealing this weekend.

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                      #25
                      I did use the IPA to rinse but got some flash rust. I think flash rust is OK to coat over according to something I read on the KBS website. They also recommend to dry with a heat gun, but I think that is assuming a total restoration job including exterior painting.

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                        #26
                        One of my soldiers and I stripped an old liner and redid the tank with KBS. The heat gun worked great for drying it out but bubbled the paint. The flash rust should be okay if its only a few hours old. I wouldnt let it sit for over a week though.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by aclaytonb View Post
                          One of my soldiers and I stripped an old liner and redid the tank with KBS. The heat gun worked great for drying it out but bubbled the paint. The flash rust should be okay if its only a few hours old. I wouldnt let it sit for over a week though.
                          Thanks. I will be able to get to the sealing tomorrow evening. If I don't like the way it looks at that point, I will use the recycled etchant again before coating.

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by afraziaaaa View Post
                            Thanks. I will be able to get to the sealing tomorrow evening. If I don't like the way it looks at that point, I will use the recycled etchant again before coating.
                            I sealed over the flash rust. Came out great. Took a long time to set up enough to stop rotating it and was tedious to drain excess sealer, but will work out nicely I think.

                            Hope to be riding it again within 10 days, this time reliably!

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                              #29
                              Just make sure to let it dry all the way before adding gas. Pretty sure that's what killed Darci's por-15 liner.

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                                #30
                                The KBS kit was the first thing i did to my bike when I got it over a year ago. Nice to look in there when filling up and see that hard shiny epoxy look.

                                I did have a very thin film of liner material that I couldnt avoid near the gas lid area and it flaked and went in the tank. Were I to do it over I would remove the thin liner at the mouth with a razor blade after it cured.

                                I pulled the tank when it was near empty and just rinsed it out but would have been better to catch it before hand. Also .. I used a straight up 80's style hairdryer not a heat gun. I kind of prefer more slow and steady.

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