Sins of the PO and reflections of a newb carb rebuilder of a BS32ss 1980 gs850gl

[Uncamitzi]

I stepped through that video to see if it was any good. By the time I was half-way through, I had made the decision to not continue. If THAT is what you did and are calling the carbs "clean", you need to go back and start over. There is no way that you are going to get the carbs CLEAN without unganging the rack. You need to also get the "choke" plunger out, that requires rack separation. I did not go back to watch the second half of the video to see if any of that was covered, but he was saying "that's all you have to do" to clean the carbs, so I gave up.




1. The hole on the bottom of the slide will be larger. You don't have any "before and after" reference points, so let's just say that the stock holes are a bit smaller than 1/8" (maybe 3mm?), the drilled holes will be a bit larger.
That hole is also at an angle. Some installers might not know that and have drilled the hole straight in. If that hole does go straight in, you can guarantee it's been drilled, but if it goes at an angle, you don't know if it's stock or the installer knew about it and drilled it properly.

2. The drilled holes will not affect operation much. Go ahead and put the stock needle back in, with all the spacers set properly. The larger hole reportedly allows quicker operation of the slide, but I could never tell. You could also leave the Dynojet needle in place. It might need slot #3 or #4, but riding would have to dictate that.

One other modification that is usually done with a Dynojet kit is a drilled plug that goes into the main air jet. That is the hole that is in the 4 o'clock location in the carb intake. There is a pressed-in jet there from the factory, Dynojet supplies another one that is slightly smaller that gets pressed into place. I have only installed Dyno jets on a couple of bikes, and have never installed those smaller air jets, have had no problems with them. I am not sure if they are all that necessary.

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LOL... no, I did not do what was in that video... my point in posting that link was that there is no end to Youtube videos and websites that show carb cleaning.. I've watched as many as I could find. I knew enough to separate and take out EVERYTHING including the enrichment plunger. I cleaned everything and used a small copper wire to poke out all the holes in the jets after I ultrasound cleaned both the jets, the bodies, the bowls and the covers. (I did NOT ultrasonic the diaphragm) I used compressed air to blow all the passages in the bodies and each individual jet and then visually made sure all the holes were open and clean. The gaskets are in good order and the rubber plugs for the pilot jet are soft and flexible... and I have replaced ALL of the o-rings (again) whether they needed it or not.

I am going to leave the dynojet needles. They were/are on the 3rd slot... we'll see how those work. It does not appear that the factory jets were drilled out and replaced. but I'll check again.

[Wingsconsin]

Take them off -- put them in a box -
ship them to STEVE and have them rebuilt for a nominal fee
Just my 2¢

[Uncamitzi]

Take them off -- put them in a box -
ship them to STEVE and have them rebuilt for a nominal fee
Just my 2¢

What is the fun and learning curve on that?

[limeex2]

What is the fun and learning curve on that?

To me, that is the learning curve. Let someone who will return it to me perfect, while I work on something that I am able to repair perfectly so I can enjoy the ride. Of course if you enjoy puttzing with it and the challenge of doing it yourself I am envious, but at my age, its easier and better time management to work overtime. Just my $.02 worth. I have used ultrasonic on many things, but carb jets must be PERFECT and imo I would use dip style carb cleaner (berryman's or equivalent) then use the ultra sonic cleaner. Go back to all stock jetting unless someone chimes in with settings that are better than a stock set up for a stock bike. Some passages are so small that any residue can affect tuning. Getting good chemicals is critical and getting harder to find these days

Any repaired rubber part that seals can also be a culprit. Test these by spraying starting fluid at intake boots, filter housing seals. If they leak, the engine will pick up rpm's. PO's touch everything and therefore every tuning aspect must be verified. There is more than tuning than just the carbs.

[Uncamitzi]

The whole reason I took up riding as late in life as I did was for the experience. I'm 65 and have only been riding since I was 58. I've wrenched on things my whole life, mostly out of necessity. Working on this bike has been pleasure. There are, of course, things I will have done that are beyond my experience or my competence.. When I find out what those are... perhaps I'll write about them in another thread. I'll not be dissuaded by those that seem to ridicule those that don't have the same experience/competence level.

I appreciate the advice.

I have returned everything I can to stock except the dynojet slide needles, and have replaced all rubber, except the enrichment (choke) plunger covers. I've found that I left the floats at the wrong level the last time I tore down the carbs. I didn't understand the importance of the floats last time. I've now found a bunch of errors in the carbs. Some were my fault and some were inherited. With the help of my manual and people that have given good advice on this forum, I think I've got a handle on it this time..... I also think I bodged up the valve shimming... I'll tackle that, again, before I get the bike on the road again. (I'll post that in the right section)

[Steve]

Carbs, valves and electrical issues are the three areas that tend to sideline a GS. Valve adjustment and electrical issues have to be done on the bike, for obvious reasons. Fortunately there is just a basic concept with each one that is relatively easy to master. Once you grasp that concept, it's easy to do the job. Valves are a bit trickier, because two of the three common manuals don't give you the complete procedure.

Carbs, on the other hand, have many parts inside them. Each part is just another opportunity for a problem. Toss in a bunch of adjustments on top of all those parts, you can see how easy it is to get it wrong. Each of the adjustments can, and usually does, affect all of the others, so a novice might not recognize the root problem. Sure, we can talk you through whatever problem you bring to the table, but what if you are not describing it correctly? Yeah, there is a bit of "fun" in learning, but it's also very easy to get VERY frustrated when you can't find the proper combination of adjustments.

Have fun with your learning curve, but we'll be here waiting for a success story or a plea for help.

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[limeex2]

No disrespect intended and sorry for making you feel that way.

[Uncamitzi]

No disrespect intended and sorry for making you feel that way.

I didn't take it personally (I rarely get "upset" about anything said on the interwebz) Tone does not come across well in in the typed word... We aren't all Tom Clancys when we write here...

[limeex2]

All good. I was a service manager at a 5 brand major metropolitan dealership from 1980-1999. I had brilliant tech's working for me. I've seen more issues that could be dreamed up here. I was not a working service Mgr, just a back yard wrench with good people and organizational skills, but learned many valuable lessons from my tech's. If I can pass them on, like others I will.

[ToaDady]

could be worse, I had to find another carb body after finding the old "glue the post"

[Uncamitzi]

Yep, that would be worse... Whenever I visit the Boneyard I'm tempted to pick up a few spares of everything I find that fits...

[Uncamitzi]

As mentioned in another thread. Steve mentioned the condition of the air box "snorkel" and that was a surprise to me, (SNORKEL!???) but the idea of smoothing the airflow into the airbox made sense to me...so after a couple of days looking on Ebay, and a trip to the Boneyard I found one. It's from a 1978 GS850g and has a couple of tears in the flaps that hold it on, that shouldn't affect the intake end once installed. I cleaned the 30+ years of grease off of it, added some rubber cement and a coating of liquid rubber to smooth the tears and it almost looks and feels almost like new. It fits just fine and looks like all the pictures I could find of the thing as it is installed on the airbox.

[Uncamitzi]

Carbs back on.... temp gas fed ... cautiously optimistic I gapped the spark plugs... charged the battery, and primed the carbs watching for overflow or leaks... pulled the choke (enrichment) cable and cranked................ fired up.... ... No airbox yet... but even without the airbox it warmed up and settled into a nice steady idle adjusted to about 1100...

This following advice and instructions just might be something to think about.................

[Steve]

... I found one. It's from a 1978 GS850g ...

Treasure that thing, because it's made of "UNOBTAINIIUM".

The 850 did not come out until 1979.

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[Uncamitzi]

Treasure that thing, because it's made of "UNOBTAINIIUM".

The 850 did not come out until 1979.

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Typo... it was from a 79 850... sorry.