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How can fiddling only with Pilot Air screws cripple my gs850

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    #16
    Slides need to come out and be disassembled. This is where you need a proper JIS screwdriver. Then, you adjust the clip on the needle
    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
    2007 DRz 400S
    1999 ATK 490ES
    1994 DR 350SES

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      #17
      Originally posted by Steve View Post
      Yep, those are stock VM26 carbs.

      Stock jetting includes #15 pilot fuel and 102.5 mains. With pods installed, a 115 might work fine, but plug checks will need to be done. Might also need to raise the needle one notch to ease the transition to mid-range.

      .

      Great advise on raising the needles. It's been a while since a tuned/rebuilt my bike, if I recall mine smoothed out nicely after raising the needles. I probably got the advise from Steve

      -Dave
      82 GS1100E
      five asses because it's far superior to having just four!
      Yes, I watched too much South Park!

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        #18
        Take the slides out then remove the 3 screws on top. Careful, there's a spring and spacers on each..
        -Mal

        "The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." - B. Banzai
        ___________

        78 GS750E

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          #19
          All set, fellas, thank you all, I went out, and I DID stare at it for a long minute ... , then said "*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$ it", pulled them out, not so bad, after all. That raising of the needle did the trick, no more marbles she ran like the raped ape I knew she wanted to be. Now, a few minor idle adjustments, as per the plugs and I might even swap those 120s for 130s, as she started to flag with a wide open gullet, but I'm too old to ride wide open anymore, seem too many idiots out there while driving trucks ... dunno yet, right now, I can take her on da big roads widout fear .. I appreciate all the advice.

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            #20
            Starting to get tired of this bike ... had it running like a top. next day? POP POP BANG BANG .... as if it changed itself back .... after fiddling with it, discovered an inordinate amount of arcing coming from the 1/4 points. in spite of perfect gapping. Took screwdriver, opened up points gap (while running) and increased gap until it gave up the arcing and started to run beautifully .... confused now, as I just blew my gap out the textbook, but it seems to have done the trick, for now. Am thinking to try "commoning" the 2 condensers to see if I have a faulty one, as the condensers were both replaced at the same time, along with the coils. However, as it's running nicer, I'm hesitant to look a gift horse in the mouth ...
            Last edited by RandyRex; 08-09-2019, 12:45 PM.

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              #21
              That would indicate that the ignition is the problem
              OEM parts, or off the net?
              1978 GS 1000 (since new)
              1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
              1978 GS 1000 (parts)
              1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
              1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
              1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
              2007 DRz 400S
              1999 ATK 490ES
              1994 DR 350SES

              Comment


                #22
                Sounds like a bum condenser. Bigger gaps mean shorter dwell time... not ideal and will probably affect your top end.
                Last edited by Tom R; 08-09-2019, 08:20 PM.
                -1980 GS1100 LT
                -1975 Honda cb750K
                -1972 Honda cl175
                - Currently presiding over a 1970 T500

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                  #23
                  ... E-bay ...

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Big T View Post
                    That would indicate that the ignition is the problem
                    OEM parts, or off the net?
                    ... e-bay ...

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by Tom R View Post
                      Sounds like a bum condenser. Bigger gaps mean shorter dwell time... not ideal and will probably affect your top end.
                      I agree there, cannot understand how it can run nice one day and stutter like Timmy the next ... but I suppose the variables have to matter. Right now, I've tied them together and added an extra in a recess. And returned the gap to normal. Contacted the E-bay vendor (retro- something ...)

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                        #26
                        If it wasn't for the points needing replaced as well, I'd wander down to Auto Zone for a nice replacement ...

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                          #27
                          This is the game with these old machines, knocking the problems down as new ones arise. Eventually, you'll get the upper hand and the path to ultimate (kinda) victory clears!..... maybe.
                          -Mal

                          "The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once." - B. Banzai
                          ___________

                          78 GS750E

                          Comment


                            #28
                            From what I see and hear, there are a lot of dud condensers on the market. It was bad enough back when, when the OEM cost of points and condensers made people run them as long as they could, and well beyond any sensible mileage, but just because the parts are ostensibly available at better prices now, doesn't mean they're any good. If I were still running a points bike I'd simply wire in a proper set of capacitors, of decent make.
                            ---- Dave

                            Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Best reason to upgrade to a Dyna S
                              1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                              1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                              1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                              1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                              1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                              1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                              2007 DRz 400S
                              1999 ATK 490ES
                              1994 DR 350SES

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by RandyRex View Post
                                If it wasn't for the points needing replaced as well, I'd wander down to Auto Zone for a nice replacement ...
                                I just looked at Parts Outlaw to check pricing. One set of points is $29 and change, the other set is $28 and change, the two condensors are about $14 each. By the time you toss in shipping (currently $4.99), you are looking at $90 for the package.

                                Which points/condensor do you have? ND or KD? It makes a difference if you want to go to a Dyna ignition, but either one of them is about $160 from [Z1 Enterprises.

                                .
                                sigpic
                                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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                                Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                                (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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