The goal here is to get the bike running well enough so my wife can use it. Looks like I've got my work cut out for me.
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New to me GS550 won't run without choke
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Isoparmesan
Ah, thanks for pointing me to your restore. Should be a good resource for me. I think mine is starting from a better overall place, which is good to see. Previous owner owned and maintained it for 17 years, but only stopped riding it three years ago. Definitely going to get some Berryman's, do a full disassemble/soak, maybe another ultrasonic pass. I also ordered new O-rings for the carbs and boots.
The goal here is to get the bike running well enough so my wife can use it. Looks like I've got my work cut out for me.
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You do, but once you do it, there is a whole lot of life left in these bikes. The last major work I did on my bike was about eight years ago, running fine.http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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Isoparmesan
Ok. I’ve begun the process of chem dipping the carbs. I can only fit one carb and all it’s screws/jets/bowls into the can at once.
I've just removed the first one, rinsed it with water, and dried with a combination of a hair dryer and some canned air. Everything looks much cleaner, but the main carb body has developed a chalky oxidation. Is this normal? And if not have I damaged anything? Do I need to remove this somehow before rebuilding everything?
it was in the can for a little under 24h
I’ve attached a photo with the clean carb body on the right, and a yet-to-be-dipped carb on the left.Attached FilesLast edited by Guest; 08-12-2019, 10:42 PM.
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It is normal and no you didn't damage anythingCowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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Isoparmesan
The oxidation will rub off with on my finger. I'm just wondering what the effects are of it coming off and flowing into the cylinder with the gas. The instructions for the chem dip mention treating low alloy metals with penetrating oil, but I also don't necessarily want that mixing with the gas.
I'm probably being paranoid.
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Originally posted by Isoparmesan View PostThe oxidation will rub off with on my finger. I'm just wondering what the effects are of it coming off and flowing into the cylinder with the gas. The instructions for the chem dip mention treating low alloy metals with penetrating oil, but I also don't necessarily want that mixing with the gas.
I'm probably being paranoid.
Maybe put them briefly into an ultrasonic bath for a few minutes. The equivalent of hundreds of tiny little fingers rubbing ten-thousands times per second might knock off the oxidation...#1: 1979 GS 550 EC "Red" – Very first Bike / Overhaul thread New here? ☛ Read the Top 10 Newbie mistakes thread
#2: 1978 GS 550 EC "Blue" – Can't make it a donor / "Rebuild" thread Manuals (and much more): See Cliff's homepage here
#3: 2014 Moto Guzzi V7 II Racer – One needs a runner while wrenching
#4: 1980 Moto Guzzi V65C – Something to chill
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Isoparmesan
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Just wipe off the residue and squirt some carb cleaner thru the various holes, it will be fine
after you reassemble the carb rack, put the fuel line on, prop up the rack to vertical and run gas into the rack (I use a tiny funnel) It may leak a bit at first, but should seal up
Like Roeme, my 41 year old T still seals fine
You are building this bike for your wife? It better be perfect1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35698
- Torrance, CA
WD-40 helps reduce the chalky residue.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Isoparmesan
Originally posted by Big T View PostYou are building this bike for your wife? It better be perfect
Also, I lucked out on the fuel rail. In the "box-o-parts" that came with the bike were a set of VM carbs for a 650. The fuel rail parts are all the same size and practically new.Last edited by Guest; 08-13-2019, 08:12 PM.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35698
- Torrance, CA
The 650 didn't use VM's, unless you are talking about a Kawasaki!Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Isoparmesan
Originally posted by Nessism View PostThe 650 didn't use VM's, unless you are talking about a Kawasaki!
Edit: attached a photo. Carb on left is the mystery one. Carb body on right is from the GS550
Edit edit: Actually, googling "KZ650 Mikuni vm" produces images that look just like them, so maybe they are from a kz650.Attached FilesLast edited by Guest; 08-13-2019, 09:04 PM.
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Isoparmesan
I'm sure it will come as no surprise to anyone, cleaning the carbs fixed the idle jet problem!
I replaced all the o-rings, including the carb boot ones. Installed a in-line fuel filter (just the regular trackside one from cycle gear). Also, flushed out some sediment that had built up in the tank with gas. Condition of the tank is fair, but I'm probably going to give it a evapo-rust treatment to get rid of some oxidation on the top most surface of the tank.
As far as the fuel connectors on the carbs, I did end up needing to recycle the original ones. The ones from the other set of carbs were the right diameter, but the wrong length. And, alas, there was fuel leaking from the T-joint last night. However, this morning there wasn't. so, I'm going to subscribe to the theory that the rubber has expanded after soaking in gas overnight.
So, this is the state now. I will start cold with choke, but will backfire pretty consistently. I hear popping come from both the carbs and from the exhaust. Once it's warm and the choke is off, this goes away. It idles just fine. I can give it throttle enough to ride it around, but if I quickly snap the throttle open it bogs, but generally doesn't die.
Would I be correct in thinking the needle jets may need adjustment for this type of bogging? I haven't synced the carbs yet either.
As far as the popping while on choke, would that be a timing thing? I also haven't done valves, or inspected the points, etc.
Sorry if these are dumb questions, I'm really just starting to learn this stuff.
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Popping on choke is dirty pilot circuit/jets
You did remove everything from the carb bodies?1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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Isoparmesan
Originally posted by Big T View PostYou did remove everything from the carb bodies?
the pilot jets were very clogged, but are completely clear now.
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