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Rebuilt carbs #1 not firing.

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    #31
    I have ordered new intake boot o rings and the stainless bolts from cycle o-rings. #4 was popping, sprayed carb cleaner and idle improved. One screw was loose, as was the case on #1. So when the bike died on me in the middle of passing 2 semi's it had to have been a massive vacuum leak, not the stator quitting and battery dying. I did ride it up and down the road and it would not take throttle, it bogged down. So I had totally misdiagnosed this, and worse improperly installed the new intakes and o rings 10 years ago. I guess I was fooled into thinking it was the stator because I had a CX500 Turbo that had the same symptoms when the stator died, but then that was fuel injected.

    When I pulled 1 and 4 intake boots, on the port there was a smudge running from (I guess) the o ring to the port, I am guessing that would be a sure sign of a leak. Been many years since auto mechanics class in high school, and when F-16's and F-111's leak, you know it.

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      #32
      Originally posted by pvasc View Post
      Is Stabil 360 a good conditioner for storage? Anything to keep from draining the carbs.
      I have never tried the 360 or any of the other 'special' formulas, I have only used the standard red stuff.

      When it comes time to put the bikes away for the winter, I will add double or triple the recommended amount of Sta-Bil to a partial tank. That would be double or triple the amount for a FULL tank, so it's actually quite a bit stronger at first. I then ride 1/2 mile to the gas station, fill the tank and go for a 5-20 mile ride. The length of the ride depends on the weather. When I get home, I change the oil and filter, run the engine just a bit to circulate the fresh oil, then park the bike and cover it with an old bed sheet.

      When it's time to wake up, turn the petcock to PRIme for a minute, set the "choke", turn the key ON and stare at the starter button rather sternly. That's all it takes to get it going.

      .
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      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
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      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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        #33
        Originally posted by Steve View Post
        I have never tried the 360 or any of the other 'special' formulas, I have only used the standard red stuff.

        When it comes time to put the bikes away for the winter, I will add double or triple the recommended amount of Sta-Bil to a partial tank. That would be double or triple the amount for a FULL tank, so it's actually quite a bit stronger at first. I then ride 1/2 mile to the gas station, fill the tank and go for a 5-20 mile ride. The length of the ride depends on the weather. When I get home, I change the oil and filter, run the engine just a bit to circulate the fresh oil, then park the bike and cover it with an old bed sheet.

        When it's time to wake up, turn the petcock to PRIme for a minute, set the "choke", turn the key ON and stare at the starter button rather sternly. That's all it takes to get it going.

        .
        I will do that. Thank-you. Also for the Harley, that is fuel injected, but should work. Current procedure, and what I was told from the motorcycle shop, is no matter what our E15 gas is only going to last a month, so ride and refill.. Now I can ride a tank off, but not in the 115 degree summer, that is when the bikes will sit the most.

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          #34
          Success! All cylinders now firing and she is running good on fresh gas, not to bad on the old stuff either. Next steps is to get the tank burned out of old gas and fresh put in...with StaBil for storage...when the time comes.

          Thanks for all your help.

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            #35
            I didn't see mentioned, many times flooding carbs is due to the o-rings on the float needle seat. That gives gas a direct bypass of the needle....
            sigpic
            09 Kaw C14 Rocket powered Barcalounger
            1983 GS1100e
            82\83 1100e Frankenbike
            1980 GS1260
            Previous 65 Suzuki 80 Scrambler, 76 KZ900, 02 GSF1200S, 81 GS1100e, 80 GS850G

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              #36
              I got a carb float needle to stop leaking on a 1000E by opening the offending float bowl drain plug, and letting it refill, and opening up the float bowl drain again, a few times. Those have a large drain plug.

              It may not be a permanent fix, but it has worked so far. I always assumed the crap keeping the needle from seating came in through the petcock, which supplies all of the carbs. It was always the same carb, #2, so I thought perhaps a drain/flush on the bowl was worth a try, and it has seemed to work. It may have been a case of floating flotsam flushed away.
              sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

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                #37
                Originally posted by bobgroger View Post
                I didn't see mentioned, many times flooding carbs is due to the o-rings on the float needle seat. That gives gas a direct bypass of the needle....
                I put the aux tank on and let it set. 2 carbs were flooding, went in and replaced float needle jet seats, all is well as far as leaking.

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