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    GS1000 full choke RPM?

    I recently bought a 1979 GS1000. When I start the bike cold by pulling the choke cable all the way out, the bike starts then the RPM's go up to
    3,000 RPM and stays there. If I push the choke down about half way it slows down but wants to kill. So I pull it out all the way again and it starts right back up. It just seem to me that 3,000 RPM is high for a cold engine. Any thoughts? Thanks, Doug
    1979 Gs1000L
    1973 Tm-400 Suzuki
    1967 Impala SS427 convertible

    #2
    3K RPM is high for an old V8 at warmup, but not for an inline 4 Japanese motorcycle engine. Most of my motorcycle warm up like this, then 30 seconds later I drop the choke to 1/4 and ride off, as long as the throttle responds. Just take it easy until its fully warmed up.

    Summer mornings, I will tend not to give it full choke, maybe 1/2, but colder winters needs more choke. But again, 3K RPM wouldn't worry me one bit.
    1981 Suzuki GS250T
    1982 Yamaha Seca Turbo
    1985 Suzuki GS550E
    2004 Suzuki GSF1200S

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      #3
      When it starts, the RPM should keep rising as the eng. warms up. Keep reducing the choke, gradually, to keep RPM around 1100 or 1200. When completely warm should be at appx. < 1000 RPM.
      1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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        #4
        Originally posted by rphillips View Post
        When it starts, the RPM should keep rising as the eng. warms up. Keep reducing the choke, gradually, to keep RPM around 1100 or 1200. When completely warm should be at appx. < 1000 RPM.
        And once you get to using the choke under all but extremely cold starts you may only need about 1/2 choke to begin with thus avoiding that initial surge in RPM.
        '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/
        https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35860327946_08fdd555ac_z.jpg

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          #5
          If you start at full "choke" and SLOWLY back it off, do the revs drop right away or do they climb a bit first? On my bikes, I have found that about 1/2 "choke" is where they run the best, as full "choke" is too much. I have a mental note where that point is on each bike and start there. Even when starting at that point, the engine speed will rise a bit as the engine warms up in a few seconds. Once it's stable (at about 2000 RPM) I'll put on my helmet, get on the bike and ride off. By the time I'm in third gear, the "choke" is turned off completely.

          .
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            #6
            Originally posted by Doug VK View Post
            I recently bought a 1979 GS1000. When I start the bike cold by pulling the choke cable all the way out, the bike starts then the RPM's go up to
            3,000 RPM and stays there. If I push the choke down about half way it slows down but wants to kill. So I pull it out all the way again and it starts right back up. It just seem to me that 3,000 RPM is high for a cold engine. Any thoughts? Thanks, Doug
            Completely normal behavior. Let it run at 3k until you hear a slight increase in rpm, then start reducing the amount of choke.
            The majority of responders here different carbs
            No harm will come to the engine, says the guy with 80,000+ miles on his 78 GS 1000
            1978 GS 1000 (since new)
            1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
            1978 GS 1000 (parts)
            1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
            1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
            1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
            2007 DRz 400S
            1999 ATK 490ES
            1994 DR 350SES

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Big T View Post
              Completely normal behavior. Let it run at 3k until you hear a slight increase in rpm, then start reducing the amount of choke.
              The majority of responders here different carbs
              No harm will come to the engine, says the guy with 80,000+ miles on his 78 GS 1000
              OK, thanks guys for all the info, I won't worry about the 3,000 RPMs now.
              1979 Gs1000L
              1973 Tm-400 Suzuki
              1967 Impala SS427 convertible

              Comment


                #8
                My '82 1100E "starts instantly on full choke, with the tach quickly hitting 4500 and rising unless you back off the choke." (Cycle World).

                It is proper to idle the engine at no more than 2000 to warm it up, according to my owner's manual.
                1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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                  #9
                  Big T is the winner
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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                    #10
                    I love this place, always learning something. Is there a reason to let them warm up under higher RPM's? Is there a disadvantage to keeping them under 1500 while warming up?
                    1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by rphillips View Post
                      I love this place, always learning something. Is there a reason to let them warm up under higher RPM's? Is there a disadvantage to keeping them under 1500 while warming up?
                      I always keep RPM at approx. 1500 while warming up with the GS1000,
                      feels like 3K is harder on a cold engine to me.
                      Rijk

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                        #12
                        No advantage...but no harm either. Thats just how fast she wants to rev based on the amount of fuel delivered via the enrichment circuit. Some may be around as much as 4G too.
                        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I've always let it start, get stable and immediately start dropping the revs to around 2k. Revving a stone-cold engine up is asking for trouble.
                          ---- Dave

                          Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                            No advantage...but no harm either. Thats just how fast she wants to rev based on the amount of fuel delivered via the enrichment circuit. Some may be around as much as 4G too.
                            Yep, mines always been that way, bought it new
                            1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                            1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                            1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                            1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                            1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                            1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                            2007 DRz 400S
                            1999 ATK 490ES
                            1994 DR 350SES

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Personally, I'd never warm up my '79 GS1000 at 3,000 rpm's. If the carb's pilot circuits are reasonably clean, why would you have to pull the choke up that high to keep it running? I realize "pulling the choke all the way out " as Doug says, can result in varying rpm's because of choke cable adjustment and outside temperature. I suppose I could see pulling it up that much for the purpose of starting just for a couple seconds then immediately lower the rpm's to no more than 2,000 and that much rpm's should only be needed in very cold weather. I just don't know why you would subject a cold engine to that much rpm's as a routine, when, for example, my 1000 might need the choke pulled up high enough that the moment it starts, the rpm's can hit 3,000 but I immediately lower the rpm's to about 1,800 in cold weather. I also turn off the choke as soon as I can. This motor has some very small oil passages and the oil pressure I believe is only about 6-8 PSI. Cold 10W40 oil is too thick to flow well at 3,000 rpm's.
                              The factory owners manual for the '79 1000 states "to try to limit the rpm's to 2,500" and I was surprised it said that high. Maybe I just "baby" my GS too much. My reply also focuses on Doug saying his bike wants to kill if the choke is closed about 1/2 way. Again, cable adjustment and outside temp's factor in. I just want to add that the bike may be relying too much on the choke because the pilot circuit may not be operating as it should.
                              And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                              Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

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