Sounds Craxy... Carb boots gs1100e can they be shorter? And if so where to order?

[Gregory]

I know this sounds like a nutty question but I have a gs1100e that I frankensteined into a gs1000 body work. The only issue I have had is that the petcock sits right down on the #1 carb and I had to vut the handle shorter to use it.

Anyway, now that I have switched to pods I was looking at it an realised that if I could shorten the carb boots by 1/2", my petconck would clear the carb. I know the 1100e boots have a slight bend to them but wondered if 1. would the pereformance be altered by having the carbs 1/2" closer the the intak? 2. If it would not hurt anything, has anyone ever done this?.... and how would you fiogure out what boots would work / fit?delkevic 2.jpg

[rphillips]

I had the same problem when put a GS1100 eng. on my "79" GS1000S. I hate the pods. I used the orig air boxes, & made a small bracket to raise the rear mounting point for the tank appx. 1/2". I knew it because I did it, but nobody else ever noticed. Just a thought

[rphillips]

Oh yeah, Can't imagine how to shorted the boots & them still work & seal properly..

[Gregory]

I had the same problem when put a GS1100 eng. on my "79" GS1000S. I hate the pods. I used the orig air boxes, & made a small bracket to raise the rear mounting point for the tank appx. 1/2". I knew it because I did it, but nobody else ever noticed. Just a thought

Thank you I appeciate the input... i was afraid it was a longshot.

The bad part is that I already welded the tank bolt bracket where it is.... (78 tank mounts differently) and in restrospect about 1/2 too low...so I was looking for another option other than welding on the bike again because i am a bit worried about shorting any electronic component.

I could also shave and reweld a corner of the number 1 carb top. Just lazy but I may have to do it someday.

[rphillips]

No No No, Should be no welding. A little straight piece of sturdy metal appx 1/2" wide & appx. 1 1/4" tall, one hole to mount to the one hole on the bike, another hole appx. 1/2" above the first one to mount to the hole on the rear of the tank. Hole in tank will need the orig. grommet in it. I'm thinking I may have used one of those tear drop looking nut things from one of the bikes motor mount bolts, where you stick it up in a slot then the nut can't turn because of the shape. Unless I've forgot something. What the heck were you welding on, there is a hole on the rear of the tank that lines up with a hole (tab) on the frame, bolt goes thru hole, with grommet, in tank & screws into hole on frame. this piece you make will raise the mounting hole appx. 1/2".

[Gregory]

No No No, Should be no welding. A little straight piece of sturdy metal appx 1/2" wide & appx. 1 1/4" tall, one hole to mount to the one hole on the bike, another hole appx. 1/2" above the first one to mount to the hole on the rear of the tank. Hole in tank will need the orig. grommet in it. I'm thinking I may have used one of those tear drop looking nut things from one of the bikes motor mount bolts, where you stick it up in a slot then the nut can't turn because of the shape. Unless I've forgot something. What the heck were you welding on, there is a hole on the rear of the tank that lines up with a hole (tab) on the frame, bolt goes thru hole, with grommet, in tank & screws into hole on frame. this piece you make will raise the mounting hole appx. 1/2".

Nope, my frame is different. It is really an 1100e bike with gs1000 tank sideplates, seat and tailpiece whiich I had to cut off 1100e connectors and weld on the gs1000 connectors.

The original tank on an 1100e has 2 attachement bolt holes in a different place on the frame.

The bracket I cut off the gs1000 frame and welded on the 1100e frame is a little too low so I havent been able to use the rubber thing because the bottom of the bolt is even with the bottom of the hole in the tank. Anyway, if I were to take the rubber off the tank sits on (on middle frame rail), the tank still wont go down further because the petcock hits the top of the carb.

I have yet to run across a vacuum petcock that is shallower than the one I have on it
. (btw, I am not using a gs1000 petcock, i am using the 1100e petcock because it is a bit more compact and shallower.


Oh another option is raising the back of the tank a 1/2" but the seat doesnt line up right if i remember correctly.

[rphillips]

Sorry, I's thinking you put the 1100E eng. into a Gs1000 frame & body. What you are really doing is putting GS1000 body parts on a GS1100E bike. The 1100E Eng. in to the GS1000 frame & body is bolt on. Yeah, I see how the totally different tank mounts will be a problem , what you're doing, I have no clue, but good luck. Don't forget, we want a picture when you get done. I've heard said, without a picture, it never happened.

[Gorminrider]

gee, reading this, I'd go for a different petcock...a simple tap versus the vacuum might be much smaller..though your carb float and needles need be in top shape...or maybe a tap from an entirely different bike adapted There's a recent thread link below per fitting a plate to your tank and attaching a different petcock...the petcock shown has a settling bowl but lose that and a fuel tap is a pretty small device.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?258110-Pingle-Knockoff-howto

[Gregory]

gee, reading this, I'd go for a different petcock...a simple tap versus the vacuum might be much smaller..though your carb float and needles need be in top shape...or maybe a tap from an entirely different bike adapted There's a recent thread link below per fitting a plate to your tank and attaching a different petcock...the petcock shown has a settling bowl but lose that and a fuel tap is a pretty small device.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...Knockoff-howto

Thanks Gormrider, I do want to stay with a vacuum system ,,,just today I got a call from a client and walked away without turning off the hanging gas bottle... puddly floor when i returned an hour later...so I need to get that sorted but dont trust myself to remmeber to turn off the petcock.

I could re-tap the tank further back, but not sure how that would affect my caswell liner...((i am assuming you have to weld some extra thickeness of metal to where you tap it)).

This thing is not a huge deal since I have been riding it for a couple years with the petcock resting on the carb top. I may just raise the back of the tank up 1.4" and see if that helps...although my fuel guage may need to be recalibrated and I think the seat distorts a bit.

[greg78gs750]

im no expert, but the runner lengths are engineered....you could run into tuning issues.

[Gorminrider]

im no expert, but the runner lengths are engineered....you could run into tuning issues.

yes I'd feel the same way...things i don't fully understand, I am loath to fiddle with without trying a mock-up or having spares handy.

slightly Shorter boots though: one thing that comes to mind is HEAT...I can't see a half inch boiling your gas out of the bowls but it's something to note, beyond imponderable aerodynamics. A thermometer might indicate if the length is really important to temperature...

have a slight bend to them

That might be the real nuisance...just getting the ends to sit on the neccesarily inline carbs...Maybe "oversleeves" of rubber might help?

[chris]

I like the idea of gs1000 bodywork on a 1100. If it were my bike I wound not mess with the intake boots. Since 1986 i have been running manual petcocks on my gs, both modified stock ones and pingle. I had a 3 year old stock petcock fail and fill my engine with fuel. I realize a manual petcock is not a option for people that will forget to turn them off because it will eventually cause a problem. Raising the tank a lot would probably have a negative effect on the looks. Would it possible to relocate the petcock so it does not interfere with anything? It would probably require welding a adapter plate.

[Grimly]

You could use a manual petcock and an inline electrical or vacuum valve.
Mind you, it's easy for me, but in a stock layout, a bit more problematical.