Air screw screwed

[nutz4spd]

In chasing down these idling and performance issues with my GS750, I remembered that the air screw for the #3 carb was boogered up by a previous owner. I tired again to remove it but it's stripped beyond useful. I was able to turn it in however and noticed that it was pretty much already turned in all the way . I'm assuming this would cause the carb to load up on fuel? All of the floats and needles move freely. This is the only thing I can think of that is causing all this trouble. Aside from them needing to be synced. Can't do that until I either get this screw out or replace that carb.

[Nessism]

A thin dremel cut off disc can be used to cut down into the tower and create a new slot in the screw. After a slot is created grind an old screwdriver until it's a super tight fit into the slot. Use lots of PB Blaster or similar and heat the carb with a torch. Turn the screw back and forth to allow the penetrating oil to reach all the threads. Eventually you should be able to get the screw to fully back out.

[Steve]

Just so you know for sure, those are NOT "air screws". They actually control a fuel/air mixture, and screwing them IN will make the overall mixture LEANER, not richer. So, if you are having rich-running problems, it's not because of that screw being turned in.

Nessism described the procedure, here is what it looks like.



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[Nessism]

One other option is to simply drill out the old broken screw. It's fiddly work so I don't advise it unless you are experienced in such tasks. I've done it before on some carbs I didn't want to cut into with the dermel and it worked fine. Biggest problem was getting out the thinner section of the screw once the head was drilled out.

[GabrielGoes]

One other option is to simply drill out the old broken screw. It's fiddly work so I don't advise it unless you are experienced in such tasks. I've done it before on some carbs I didn't want to cut into with the dermel and it worked fine. Biggest problem was getting out the thinner section of the screw once the head was drilled out.

sounds like you had to use a drill press right in order to keep it straight and not booger up the threads?

im thinking i may cut into mine first, if that doesn't work i'll drill em out.

What a nightmare mine are worse than in the picture. As the saying goes: whoever did this should be shot

[rphillips]

Just in case you don't know know, when drilling anything out, find & use a left hand drill bit. Hopefully you won't need to drill

[GabrielGoes]

Just in case you don't know know, when drilling anything out, find & use a left hand drill bit. Hopefully you won't need to drill

I gotcha actually a good idea so it doesn't go further in right?

[tom203]

I gotcha actually a good idea so it doesn't go further in right?

No…with any luck and care, the left hand bit will bite into screw head and grab screw and back it out for you. Don’t be tempted to use screw extractor….they’re very brittle and easy to break. Since most home drill presses don’t reverse direction, you’ll probably have to use a hand held drill.

[rphillips]

"That's not a shrubbery, that's a tree... It just ain't had a chance to grow up yet". Now get back to work on that carb. & yep, what he said, "sometimes" the left hand drill will actually hang & back the thing out for you, the right handed will never do that.

[tatu]

No…with any luck and care, the left hand bit will bite into screw head and grab screw and back it out for you. Don’t be tempted to use screw extractor….they’re very brittle and easy to break. Since most home drill presses don’t reverse direction, you’ll probably have to use a hand held drill.

This is a good way, I would also warm up the body of carb in the screw area