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Gasket sets for a CV carb rebuild

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    Gasket sets for a CV carb rebuild

    I'm guessing as I left her with fuel in 11 years ago that most bits inside are going to be gummed up. Needle valves probably all gone. Pilot jets crudded up too plus any of the carb jet holes. I'm thinking I might get my own ultrasonic bath and strip the carbs myself and clean them too. Then I know what I am getting.

    Other than going genuine (i'm not sure pockets will cover that bill) who uses what for a rebuild kit for a GS1000 CV set of carbs?

    I will say I have always gone with genuine parts. Never used aftermarket stuff. But with cost I am going to have to look and rethink. With the amount of GS owners on here people will know what's the best and what to avoid.

    Anybody want to suggest realistic options here.

    #2
    Simples.



    As you said, clean all your brass bits yourself. Use the link above for all the internal o-rings, plus the intake o-rings. Bowl gaskets can be anything from a cut-up cereal packet to OEM. Replace the fasteners with shiny new ones if you're that way inclined. Lots of people prefer to use socket screws on the intake rubbers.

    If you need dimensions for the fasteners, look here - http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac/...d_Tutorial.pdf
    1980 GS550ET

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      #3
      Originally posted by steveb922 View Post
      Simples.



      As you said, clean all your brass bits yourself. Use the link above for all the internal o-rings, plus the intake o-rings. Bowl gaskets can be anything from a cut-up cereal packet to OEM. Replace the fasteners with shiny new ones if you're that way inclined. Lots of people prefer to use socket screws on the intake rubbers.

      If you need dimensions for the fasteners, look here - http://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac/...d_Tutorial.pdf
      Thanks for the info.

      I changed my intake boots and 'O' rings about 12 years ago and I swapped the JIS screws with hex heads (all Suzuki) so that I know I can get them out if needed. I might do the float bowls with 'Allen' heads or socket screws and the tops too.

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        #4
        For a couple of quid, it's worth doing the intake boot o-rings again while you have it all apart. The choice of fasteners is (I guess) 50% maintenance oriented, 50% personal taste. Personally, all my carb bowls and tops are fixed with stainless JIS screws. I've never liked the look of socket cap screws, but I understand that they can be easier to use.
        1980 GS550ET

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          #5
          Stainless hex head with stainless washers here. Socket caps would be easier because on the bottoms you have to push the rubber aside a bit to get a socket on the hex head. But it’s not that big a deal.
          1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
          We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

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            #6
            I hate where phillips screws have been used on these bikes. For example, the vacuum ports for syncing. Last time I sync’ed, the #2 screw fell down off the end of my driver and bounced right into the cooling fins where it is hopelessly lost for eternity. Ugh. Replaced with socket head.
            1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
            We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

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              #7
              Well, the factory put socket head screws in the sync ports, so a previous owner evidently changed them.

              .
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