I'm guessing you don't have to worry about scarring up the outer perimeter of this assembly since nothing rides there. Is this correct? I'm having a terrible time getting mine to come out and may have to get a good grip with locking plyers. I'm also going to put it in the ultrasonic a while to hopefully loosen it a little bit. Edit. I tried to add a pic but botched it. I will try to copy the pic on the CV carb cleaning tutorial from BikeCliff's.
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Fuel inlet needle valve seat.
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Fuel inlet needle valve seat.
I'm guessing you don't have to worry about scarring up the outer perimeter of this assembly since nothing rides there. Is this correct? I'm having a terrible time getting mine to come out and may have to get a good grip with locking plyers. I'm also going to put it in the ultrasonic a while to hopefully loosen it a little bit. Edit. I tried to add a pic but botched it. I will try to copy the pic on the CV carb cleaning tutorial from BikeCliff's.1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
1983 GS 1100 G
2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)
I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.Tags: None
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A few marks shouldn't hurt it but of course, if you squeeze it, it could "oval"....the seat is supposed to just pull out -just an o-ring supplying friction once the "keeper" is removed. I'd try penetrating oil or atf alone (automatic transmission fluid ) a bit longer with some local gentle heating ...
Why are you taking it out? does the needle and/or seat leak? Worn? Scratched? If something like this has no symptoms and doesn't come out easily, I tend to not "fix" it...or put it off to some future day when it's really required....
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13982
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
They are always tough to get out... especially with old hard O rings. I usually end up using locking pliers too. Make sure you don't squash them. Twisting & pulling works better than just yanking. If you mark the brass that won't be a problem.1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35647
- Torrance, CA
Some heat may help. Just not too hot.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Thanks for all the help. I'll let it soak with some penetrating oil but I think I'll probably end up going with the "If it ain't broke, leave it alone" approach. I'm cleaning the carbs for a guy who is buying my GL and have o-rings from Robt Barr on the way. I guess that's the only o-ring I won't be replacing (on all 4 carbs.)1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
1983 GS 1100 G
2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)
I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.
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