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    1978 GS1000 Daily

    Hello folks thanks for stopping by. My wife inherited a 1978 GS1000 that has had all distinguishing body panels removed and discarded somewhere in a junkyard. My wife has modified the rear of the frame and made the bike a hardtail with a springer seat instead(not to my liking but its hers). I told her that I'd do the powertrain work for her so she could focus on making it cool/pretty/ratty or whatever she wants. Her end goal is to have a unique daily motorcycle that she can leave out in the heat of the day and not worry about the desert destroying her expensive Ducati that's garage kept.

    On to my task, powertrain. Currently the bike has OEM sized jets(95 main 15 pilot) in the carbs, some mismatched set of needles and new K&N oval pod filters for fuel. Exhaust is OEM head pipes to two mufflers off some newer motorcycle; 2-1 style exhausts. As you all know this isn't enough fuel for the amount of air it pulling in so I'm patiently waiting for my DynoJet kit to arrive which includes their 138 and 142 mains(130-132.5 Mikuni equivalent) and four matching needles to replace my Frankenstein set. I have on hand new 17.5 and 20 sized pilots incase I need to upsize those for any reason.

    On to the current running condition. The bike moves under its own power, reluctantly. It idles well now that I've ditched the small cheap pods and installed the K&N pods instead. As far as screw adjustment: fuel screw 6 turns out, air screw: seated. I hope I got you got somewhat of a laugh out of that because I thought I was dreaming when the bike actually drove itself on those settings but this tells me there is not enough fuel getting to the engine just yet. I tried 1 turn fuel, 2 turns air and I couldn't even roll on the throttle without it bogging and turning off.

    While i'm waiting for jets in the mail, I'm going to check valve lash as that is where everyone seems to point first, then timing, then air leaks THEN jets/carb adjustment. I've already emailed Steve and asked for his valve adjustment guide and I'm shopping for a new valve cover gasket as I'm typing. Suggestions, comments and criticism are welcome.











    Last edited by Guest; 05-03-2020, 02:58 PM. Reason: learned to MAC; fixed pictures

    #2
    Originally posted by Jacob4ta View Post
    ...2-1 style exhausts...criticism...welcome.
    You asked for it.

    What (or where) are "2-1 style exhausts"?

    Standing room only?

    I remember when wives couldn't use welders or Sawzalls without adult supervision.

    Welcome to the site.
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

    2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

    Comment


      #3
      You have to remember that the fuel and air screws are pilot screws, for the idle mixture only.

      They have zero effect over 2500 rpm
      1978 GS 1000 (since new)
      1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
      1978 GS 1000 (parts)
      1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
      1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
      1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
      2007 DRz 400S
      1999 ATK 490ES
      1994 DR 350SES

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
        You asked for it.

        What (or where) are "2-1 style exhausts"?

        Standing room only?

        I remember when wives couldn't use welders
        Cylinder 1 and 2 collect to one muffler and 3 and 4 collect to a separate muffler. Maybe I meant 4-2? I’m a newbie 🤣

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Big T View Post
          You have to remember that the fuel and air screws are pilot screws, for the idle mixture only.

          They have zero effect over 2500 rpm
          Perhaps I do need to up the pilot jet then. I don’t have much top-end on the bike. It hits a wall pretty hard it seems fairly quickly somewhere just before half throttle. I’m fairly certain the tachometer doesn’t work well or at all but anything over 4K rpm seems to be very lack luster and once I roll off the throttle there is a considerable surge momentarily.

          Comment


            #6
            That range is the jet needle, not the pilot jet

            Did you not understand that the idle (pilot) circuit only works idle-2500 rpm?jet-chart.jpg
            1978 GS 1000 (since new)
            1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
            1978 GS 1000 (parts)
            1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
            1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
            1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
            2007 DRz 400S
            1999 ATK 490ES
            1994 DR 350SES

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Big T View Post
              That range is the jet needle, not the pilot jet

              Did you not understand that the idle (pilot) circuit only works idle-2500 rpm?[ATTACH=CONFIG]60919[/ATTACH]
              Oh yes I understand that part but I was referring to my hesitation from a stop as well as my current fuel and air screw settings. I don’t even have my air screws open currently, they are seated. My fuel screws are 6 turns out; much further out than they should be or a properly jetted carb. I have mismatched needles currently so that is also adding problems to the overall performance. That’s why I’m anxious to receive my Dynojet kit that has identical needles and larger main jets that would fit better for my current mods: Pod filters and a free flowing muffler.

              Once I have parts that are identical between the 4 carburetors I’ll be ready to ACTUALLY diagnose and tune AFR properly. Right now I’m just wasting gas. That’s why I’m going to focus on checking valve lash, timing and syncing my carburetors.
              Last edited by Guest; 05-02-2020, 02:56 PM. Reason: Typo

              Comment


                #8
                Skip the carb sync until you've finished with all the other carb stuff

                Fuel screw at 1 turn, Air screws at 2 turns to start should remove that hesitation.
                1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                2007 DRz 400S
                1999 ATK 490ES
                1994 DR 350SES

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Big T View Post
                  Skip the carb sync until you've finished with all the other carb stuff

                  Fuel screw at 1 turn, Air screws at 2 turns to start should remove that hesitation.
                  Originally posted by Jacob4ta View Post
                  I tried 1 turn fuel, 2 turns air and I couldn't even roll on the throttle without it bogging and turning off.
                  Tried that in an act of desperation and it made everything worse. I’m sure needles are in the incorrect spot and that would be causing me issues. I don’t want to adjust these needles because they don’t match so there isn’t much of a point to keep tinkering with the carb set until I receive my new needles, jets and fuel screws.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I’m right at sea level and only use the 138’s with K&N and Marving 4:1 (third exhaust I’ve run, the pipe has never changed the settings needed although it did run richer with the V&H pipe than the Marving or Yoshi).

                    Don’t believe I changed pilots. Maybe... I think I followed DJ suggestion for the needle and it was fine.

                    welcome by the way... I’m the guy on Facebook that sent you here
                    1980 GS1000G - Sold
                    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thank you so much for helping me out and pointing me in the direction of this forum. Volumes of information available from real people who’ve all dealt with the exact same issues and worse haha. As I’ve said over and over again, I’m anxious to get my new parts in and actually begin to tune the motorcycle. 👍🏻

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I ordered an O-ring set and O-rings for the intake flanges(the 32mm ones) from Cycleorings.com last night to make sure I’m not getting any unmetered air into the engine by accident. I’m going to pull the valve cover this morning and start measuring gaps and see where I’m at. Correct me if I’m wrong but I’ve read to try and be on the higher side of the 0.08MM tolerance than closer to the 0.03MM tolerance. Fingers crossed everything is where it needs to be and no work is necessary.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yep, looser is better
                          The clearances tighten up over time
                          1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                          1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                          1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                          1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                          1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                          1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                          2007 DRz 400S
                          1999 ATK 490ES
                          1994 DR 350SES

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ok so I've just completed checking valve clearances this morning. My feeler gauge only goes as small as 0.04MM which I assume is more than satisfactory especially if the tightest measurement within tolerance is 0.03MM.

                            All the measurements that I listed below are the LARGEST gauge I could fit between the bucket and cam lobe. I checked each valve position in the A and the B position that are referenced in the service manual.

                            Cylinder 1 Intake: 0.04MM Exhaust: 0.10MM
                            Cylinder 2 Intake: Too tight Exhaust: 0.04MM
                            Cylinder 3 Intake: 0.04MM Exhaust: 0.05MM
                            Cylinder 4 Intake: 0.04MM Exhaust: 0.05MM

                            Looks like I could use some work on all 8 positions if I am to be closer to the 0.08MM range. I've already contacted Steve via email and I'm patiently waiting for his guide to get to me. The felt valve cover gasket did tear on a couple locations, is it worth it to replace, or just line up the tears and move on with installing the cover?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              So if each new shim is 0.05MM thicker or thinner, how would I go about replacing them? Is it acceptable to go beyond the 0.08MM tolerance? I’m referencing the service manual which shows everything from 2.15MM to 3.10MM in increments of 0.05MM each step.

                              Comment

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