1982 Suzuki GS1100G Carbs Overflowing into Airbox.

[allojohn]

I've been waiting for Steve to reply regarding the tensioner, but it seems to me you need to loosen the lock-nut, turn the screw out to release the plunger completely. Turn the screw in until light resistance is met, then back the screw out 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and tighten the lock-nut taking care to hold the screw in place. I have no issues with this method.

[GalDemSuga]

I've been waiting for Steve to reply regarding the tensioner, but it seems to me you need to loosen the lock-nut, turn the screw out to release the plunger completely. Turn the screw in until light resistance is met, then back the screw out 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn and tighten the lock-nut taking care to hold the screw in place. I have no issues with this method.

Doesn't this turn the tensioner into a manual tensioner if the plunger is all the way out and now prevented from going back in because of the pin?

[Big T]

Doesn't this turn the tensioner into a manual tensioner if the plunger is all the way out and now prevented from going back in because of the pin?

No, what he's saying is that sometimes the plunger won't release until you loosen up the lock screw farther than 1/2 turn.
The plunger only goes out as far as the cam chain allows, shouldn't be all the way
Resetting the lockscrew to the stated clearance won't lock it in place. The force of the cam chain tension is much greater than that of the tensioner screw

[rphillips]

The orig. auto. tensioner will work like a manual tensioner only when the screw is screwed in, "tight against the plunger", holding it from going either direction. loosen the screw & the plunger will be pushed out with the spring pressure, to take up the slack as needed, but can't go back in unless you turn the big knob on the side with the spring wrapped around it. I've always wondered why buy an after mkt. manual when tightening the screw in tight, will do the same thing.

[allojohn]

Doesn't this turn the tensioner into a manual tensioner if the plunger is all the way out and now prevented from going back in because of the pin?

No, what he's saying is that sometimes the plunger won't release until you loosen up the lock screw farther than 1/2 turn.
The plunger only goes out as far as the cam chain allows, shouldn't be all the way
Resetting the lockscrew to the stated clearance won't lock it in place. The force of the cam chain tension is much greater than that of the tensioner screw

What he said.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

If you’ve taken one of these apart once, it should be apparent how the set screw needs or be positioned in the area of the flat part in the sprung pin so that, once loosened (not too much), and then tightened down with the lock nut, the end of set screw that lives in the flat part, put not tightened on the flat part, will keep the pin from coming all the way out.

I just read that to myself out-loud and don’t know if that will make sense inside anyone else’s head but mine.

[GalDemSuga]

If you’ve taken one of these apart once, it should be apparent how the set screw needs or be positioned in the area of the flat part in the sprung pin so that, once loosened (not too much), and then tightened down with the lock nut, the end of set screw that lives in the flat part, put not tightened on the flat part, will keep the pin from coming all the way out.

I just read that to myself out-loud and don’t know if that will make sense inside anyone else’s head but mine.

That is my understanding of its operation and how I have it setup. The plunger is not all the way out with the pin tightened up against it and the locking nut tightened against the pin, because if it were, then it is now a manual tensioner. The pin is now just slightly away from the flat part of the plunger and it will get caught at either end because of the piece in the video below.

https://youtu.be/dUu20YIk4Wc

[cowboyup3371]

Have you read through BWringer's write up on this yet and followed his instructions? It sounds to me like something isn't quite right with yours

[Rijko]

The pin is now just slightly away from the flat part of the plunger and it will get caught at either end

In that case the setscrew is not backed out far enough.
The set screw should allow the plunger to move all the way.

Like Brian mentions for uninstall of the tensioner :

Now TIGHTEN the lock screw. The idea here is to keep the spring-loaded pushrod from kaboinging out when you remove the tensioner from the engine.

The set screw is only used during install and uninstall of the tensioner
to keep the plunger in the housing.

[GalDemSuga]

In that case the setscrew is not backed out far enough.
The set screw should allow the plunger to move all the way.

Like Brian mentions for uninstall of the tensioner :



The set screw is only used during install and uninstall of the tensioner
to keep the plunger in the housing.

I will today revisit and correct this issue. I would very pay dearly if this is wrong.

[Rijko]

I will today revisit and correct this issue. I would very pay dearly if this is wrong.

This may be one of the times you would not

Installed like you did, it would not properly tension the chain and i think
the chain rattle would make you doublecheck before any damage would occur.

Anyway, good thing you kept asking for confirmation of proper working.
These are very nice tensioners, they usually work great during their whole lifetime,
very reliable.
Sometimes they leak a bit after decades of use, but that's an easy job to repair.
Especially with Brian's excellent writeup on that.

Good luck.

[GalDemSuga]

This may be one of the times you would not

Installed like you did, it would not properly tension the chain and i think
the chain rattle would make you doublecheck before any damage would occur.

Anyway, good thing you kept asking for confirmation of proper working.
These are very nice tensioners, they usually work great during their whole lifetime,
very reliable.
Sometimes they leak a bit after decades of use, but that's an easy job to repair.
Especially with Brian's excellent writeup on that.

Good luck.

I just read the write-up. I searched for the listed parts (o-rings and oil seal) and I have found them all at Partzilla ($14.00 shipped to me). That's a lifetime of use as I intend to pass all my Girls on to my soon to be born daughter as an old old man.

The only difference is my tensioner base gasket is a two bolt tensioner gasket as opposed to the three bolt one. I want to thank all you Guys for your help in ensuring that I got this right.

[Rijko]

Since you're working on the head and ordering parts, maybe save on shipping cost and order the Tach Cable Seals and check the driven gear if you have not done that yet.

Easy job, they are prone to leaking after decades of use.

Write-up, again by Brian, here.

[GalDemSuga]

Since you're working on the head and ordering parts, maybe save on shipping cost and order the Tach Cable Seals and check the driven gear if you have not done that yet.

Easy job, they are prone to leaking after decades of use.

Write-up, again by Brian, here.

I put a new o-ring on the gear shaft outer housing for the Tach and got a new Tach Cable. The two times I had the bike running for a total of 4 minutes or so, I had no leaks. The head is assembled now and I hope it remains leak free. I will get those components!!

[zuluwiz]

If it was me I'd be checking the coils. It could be an ignition problem..
And the plug wires and caps.

(Just a guess, and worth its weight in snake oil.)