Headless intake boot screws

[Noreg]

I figure I might have to deal with the other boots, I should probably just get all of them out or broken off. I will try with the heat gun when I am off in a few hours. I have been using penetrating oil on it. I have proper jis impact bits, but I dont understand how that helps for the middle screws.

I tried taking them off with the strange locking kind of pliers and two other kinds, they do not bulge.

That's a stick welder. You'd be better off with a mig welder if you are going to buy something..... flux core would be ok for this (and you can add gas later to most flux core setups if you want to do something more accurate/prettier).

What brands do you have available there? Something like the cheapest Clarke welder here would do it.. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/c/diy-mig-welders/

We have cheap ones here in the US too https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=mig%20welder

I guess you should google "flux core Mig welder" & see what comes up

https://www.biltema.no/en-no/tools/welding/welding-machines/welding-unit-mig-90-2000022912

This one is MIG, I don't think it comes with a mask. And it says no gas. But I don't think pretty matters, and my gas tank isn't rusty enough. Getting one with gas is more than twice that, and what else would I weld?

Norway?樂 Dang Noreg, I'd love to be able to come over and give you a hand but Norway is a little out of my range. Maybe not for Steve though, he's been known to go on road calls. 

Yeah, I am all alone here.

There has got to be some welders in your area. Rent a truck or trailer and haul the bike to them. A lot of welders have a truck and bring the job to you too.

Two houses down the street there is two dry docks, they weld all the time. Not sure if they have mig welders though, boats are a bit big. I have some former students that are welders, not sure if they have the apparatus though. My dad is a heavy machinery mechanic, if he comes to town he could weld I assume.

I have a trailer at work, I just would have to find the nose wheel stop-thing. It might be in the bike garage there. But I'm not sure where to take it. I am sure the bike shop or any car repair place will do it, but likely at $100 per hour. The bike shop would also let me wait forever for it. I am not sure how hard welding is though. It would likely cost about the same to just buy a welding apparatus and do it myself. I watched like two youtube videos and it looks pretty simple.

But I need to figure out what to do with the remaining screws. I got my impact driver bits today, tried it on the other end but its not budging, will try with heat when my lecture is over.

[Noreg]

On second thought the Awelco Mig One seems like a better machine.

[Noreg]

I recruited a friend to do it, he has done this before. But not sure when he will have the time.

[salty_monk]

That mig is a little lower powered than ideal.... I didn't see the other one. Preferably you want a 130, ideally a 160

You can always add a regulator & gas to a flux core model later.... Most manufacturers sell a kit (or you can piece it together).

[Noreg]

That mig is a little lower powered than ideal.... I didn't see the other one. Preferably you want a 130, ideally a 160

You can always add a regulator & gas to a flux core model later.... Most manufacturers sell a kit (or you can piece it together).

My friend did the welding for me, he had a 185 amp/whatever mig with gas.



My wife brushing off the screws to make them ready to be welded.

One of them came out volunterly, the seven other we broke the heads and welded.

So my bike is now free of broken rusty screws.

Edit:
If anyone can explain me how the three yellow wires attaches to the three differently colored ones that would be great. They were labeled 1, 2 and 3 (the yellow ones).

[Brendan W]

Edit:
If anyone can explain me how the three yellow wires attaches to the three differently colored ones that would be great. They were labeled 1, 2 and 3 (the yellow ones).

It doesn't matter what way you connect the three yellow wires. The three phases are identical.
What's that interesting looking foreign car in the background?

[Noreg]

It doesn't matter what way you connect the three yellow wires. The three phases are identical.
What's that interesting looking foreign car in the background?

Ill make sure to rip off those labels then, what a brilliant way to make people worry. Was also confused as to why they would color them the same xD

What car it is completely eludes me at the moment, not a brand I was familiar with but it sounded american... I can ask him if I can't recall it later.

[Brendan W]

Ill make sure to rip off those labels then, what a brilliant way to make people worry. Was also confused as to why they would color them the same xD

What car it is completely eludes me at the moment, not a brand I was familiar with but it sounded american... I can ask him if I can't recall it later.

Just double checking here. We are talking about the three yellow from the stator. The original wires were Green/White, Blue/White and Yellow. The G/W went off to the front of the bike where it changed to A Red/White that eventually made it's way to the rectifier. Best advice is to send the three stator phases directly to the rectifier, eliminating the big loop. What rectifier have you got?

[Noreg]

Just double checking here. We are talking about the three yellow from the stator. The original wires were Green/White, Blue/White and Yellow. The G/W went off to the front of the bike where it changed to A Red/White that eventually made it's way to the rectifier. Best advice is to send the three stator phases directly to the rectifier, eliminating the big loop. What rectifier have you got?

Yes.'



I do not know what rectifier I have, and I'm not sure where it is. I hear people want to replace it with something for an ATV or snowmobile or something. But I have no idea where it is, and the power system seems to work great apart from a previous corrosion issue with the fuses (fixed by oxide cleaner, sanding and dielectric grease).

The car is a Volvo 164. Classic cars is clearly not my fortè.

Is the left the left from the orientation of sitting on it?

[Rich82GS750TZ]

....So my bike is now free of broken rusty screws.

I don’t want to burst your bubble, because it’s seems your doing a thorough job of fixing properly what needs fixing as you find things. But have you attempted to remove any exhaust flange bolts on the front side of the head yet. These will present the same challenges as the carb boot bolts. When you do this, lots of penetrating oil, maybe heat, still may not save those bolt heads from breaking off. It’s great to have a friend willing to weld for beer when(not if) this happens. On the exhaust side, it’s tougher to access those bolts because of the down tubes of the frame in front of the engine. Keep up the good work and the detailed posts, please.

[Noreg]

I don’t want to burst your bubble, because it’s seems your doing a thorough job of fixing properly what needs fixing as you find things. But have you attempted to remove any exhaust flange bolts on the front side of the head yet. These will present the same challenges as the carb boot bolts. When you do this, lots of penetrating oil, maybe heat, still may not save those bolt heads from breaking off. It’s great to have a friend willing to weld for beer when(not if) this happens. On the exhaust side, it’s tougher to access those bolts because of the down tubes of the frame in front of the engine. Keep up the good work and the detailed posts, please.

But they are bolts not screws And not broken! Yet...

It seemed the ones I had used penetrating oil on for days were just as hard as the ones with none. My friend did use PTFE spray though, maybe that is better than penetrating oil.

I think his poison is jack daniels, I was thinking of dropping by his work with a bottle next week. He works at a "competing" school.



Some polishing later and they look nice and shiny. The rubber is chipping off next to the screw and around the edges. Not super stoked to buy new ones (€32 a piece...) and the rubber on the carb end is nice and whole and flexible.

I need to polish the other end tomorrow so its also nice and smooth. Took dark now sadly.

[Brendan W]

Yes.
I do not know what rectifier I have, and I'm not sure where it is. I hear people want to replace it with something for an ATV or snowmobile or something. But I have no idea where it is, and the power system seems to work great apart from a previous corrosion issue with the fuses (fixed by oxide cleaner, sanding and dielectric grease).

The car is a Volvo 164. Classic cars is clearly not my fortè.

Is the left the left from the orientation of sitting on it?

It had a Volvo look about it
The original r/r units were a so called shunt design. The excess energy was sent back to the stator. The ATV r/r is a series design, the SH775 is used a lot as it switches off the charging current when not needed reducing the heat load on the stator.

[Noreg]

It had a Volvo look about it
The original r/r units were a so called shunt design. The excess energy was sent back to the stator. The ATV r/r is a series design, the SH775 is used a lot as it switches off the charging current when not needed reducing the heat load on the stator.

It was like $153 with shipping, hmm. I sort of want to improve the electrical system, getting rid of the fusebox and putting something like Rowe Amplink PDM. I'd love to not have to worry about fuses (got stranded twice, second time I realize the fuses werent breaking but it was corrosion so I got home by myself). I also want the GPS to stay on for something like 15 minutes after killing the ignition (so it doesn't have to restart when I stop to snap a picture or something). And I want an easier way to add accessories. Now I have a bad habit of just sticking things to the battery (like the gps, and the charger things). But it seems like a somewhat big project, and it will have to wait til after my two current projects: 1) braided steel brake lines and 2) stopping the oil leaks (front either tach cable, or cam cover, secondary drive, no idea what will just replace all rubber inside it, and cam chain tensioner have the parts just have to prepare for it).

I am also getting some tiny parts like new bolt for the torque arm, the original brake bolts, dampeners for the mirrors, clutch springs, new levers (probably not a necessity but they looked better) and I have some sanding and painting to do to get rid of rust and paint damages.