82 gs650 driving me nuts. Smoke/backfires, only runs on choke

[alke46]

Did you do the bench synch of the carbs?

[Sevtovit]

Yes sir. I used the "drill bit" method to sync to the carb where the throttle cable hooks up.

[Longitudinal]

Yeah i was afraid of that. Is there any particular chemical dip you would recommend? Also, do you use an ultrasonic machine? Thank you.

The Berryman product is the one I have always used. It works great. Ultrasonic would work also, but a long soak in the tub-o-carb cleaner has always worked for me. Just give it time.

[Sevtovit]

Also I should say when I originally rebuilt the bike I used a dynojet 3310 kit, and raised the needle to either the highest or second highest setting. It has originall pilot jets.

[Sevtovit]

Update! Got the bike running, synced the carbs using a gauge set, no more backfire and no more smoke. I did however have to tighten the pilot screws to 1.5 turns out. So that being said I know I need to resize the pilot screw and possibly the pilot jet as well. And i need to figure out if I should go one full size up or a half size on the pilot jet.

[Maddevill]

You MUST remove the pilot jets and clean them AND you need to make sure that the passages they sit in are
also clear. Only running on choke is a clear sign the pilot circuit is plugged.

Mad

[salty_monk]

Sounds like classic blocked carbs and some jetting needed when you're done...

Take them completely apart, clear all the passages, dip them & fit new O rings...

[metalfab]

One of the forum favorites is Berryman's Carb Cleaner Dip in the one-gallon can. (NOTE: there is only about 3 quarts of liquid inside.) Another common one is GUNK brand Carb Cleaner Dip.

There are a few here that use an ultrasonic machine (I don't have one yet), but the solutions vary wildly, I have no idea what to recommend.

When you get your 'dip', read the directions on the can, then ignore them. They say to dip the parts for 15-30 minutes, but those directions where written back when the chemicals inside could actually do the job in that amount of time. Since all the safety weenies took over and changed the chemicals, you need to dip the parts for 15-30 HOURS to clean them properly. Then rinse with the hottest water you have, and follow up with the spray of carb cleaner and compressed air.

If you haven't already done so, install a new set of o-rings from cycleorings.com.

.

Remember there is a Berrymans consumer level product Chemdip. The consumer level product is Chemdip 0996, the professional and significantly stronger product is Chemdip 0905. The 0905 comes in a rectangular can containing 1 gallon. The Chemdip 0996 comes in a round 1 gallon can containing 3 quarts. The 0905 is dynamite.

The Berryman product is the one I have always used. It works great. Ultrasonic would work also, but a long soak in the tub-o-carb cleaner has always worked for me. Just give it time.

I use the professional Berrymans Chemdip in my 10L ultrasonic cleaner at 90F 32C, and it cleans like nothing else. If you have small parts/jets stopped up bad you can use water in your ultrasonic cleaner and use an old canned food can with chemdip in it sitting in the water in the ultrasonic cleaner. The ultrasound penetrates the can like it wasn't there. The reason for the water bath is we want to use a higher temperature, and get the Berrymans up to a higher temperature. But we want to limit the amount of it we heat because if the fumes it puts off. The 0905 berrymans boils at about 40c with the ultrasound on, and 60C with the ultrasound off. If you get it to boil the fumes will drive you out of the room, don't let it boil. The issue is heat supercharges the Chemdip, but you have to take it easy heating it. Imagine using it on a summer day when it is 100F outside, so that is a very safe temperature. The 0905 at 90F with the untrasound on will clean in 15 minutes to an hour.

[Sevtovit]

Hey all, thanks for the replies. Here is my update. Carbs were stripped, chem dipped in the consumer berrymans for 24 hours and then cleaned. Same for internal parts. I upsizes the pilot screws one size and they sit at about 2.25 turns out. Carbs are synced with gauges. The bike starts just fine, idles fine, revs and returns to idle fine. After all that I was still getting white/blueish smoke from exhaust with a LOT of condensation. Its definitely water too, the exhaust smells clean, no fuel or burnt smell. I thought back to when I rebuilt the engine and remembered I had never replaced the valve seals. I pulled the valve cover and used a tappet remover punch tool to change the seals without taking the head off. Reassembled and still have the smoke. At this point the only thing I can think of is a blown head gasket. I have no leaking oil and there does not appear to be anything coming out from the outside of the gasket. I hoping someone can suggest something that isn't the gasket that I just haven't thought of yet. Thanks eveeryone.

[Big T]

How many miles have you put on it since the valve seal replacement?

[Sevtovit]

None unfortunately. I didn't want to risk making matters worse. I will say when the bike idles there is almost no smoke but when I do work the throttle thats when most of the smoke comes.

[Big T]

Ride it. you need to remove the water vapor from the motor and exhaust

[Sevtovit]

I can give it a try. Does the color of the smoke seem to you to indicate excessive moisture?

[Big T]

White smoke- water
Gray/black -oil

[Sevtovit]

That I understand. What's throwing me off is the blue tint to the smoke.