Who can help me out with 79 GS1000E carb sleuthing? VM26SS with Dynojet questions

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Lets get one thing straight Keith.
I didn't join this site to make money and i really don't care what you or anyone thinks.
There is no "drilling " involved so please get your facts correct before making inaccurate statements...
I was INVITED here by other GSR members solely because of my unique choke plunger refurb service and the air jets that successfully solved their running issues after everything else failed to give satisfactory results, including lifting the needles.
If the choke plunger repair and air jets didn't work i wouldn't have been asked to join.
I don't give a flying fu*k about making money and i don't need any more than i already have.
The price i charge for the service i was asked to offer here barely covers costs but that's not why i do it.
I gave genuine advice on this thread ( like i have on many others including you own float bowl gasket sealer query ) and gave the OP an explanation on what he had and an alternative to what he thought was an incomplete Dynojet kit and that's it.
You thought i was an easy target and used the OPs thread as a platform to force your unsolicited opinion on the air jets which now appears to have had an ulterior motive but i'm not so go try it on with someone else.
If you have an issue with that please keep it to yourself in the future. nobody else seems to have the the same problem as you.

I knew at some point you'd blow up.
Yes, I re-read your information and drilling isn't required, only re-tapping the threads. No danger there. I don't see where you were invited here or asked to join, but if you were you must be pretty special. Everyone else here invited themselves.
"Not giving a fu*k about making money and not needing more than you already have" makes you even more special.

"You thought i was an easy target and used the OPs thread as a platform to force your unsolicited opinion on the air jets which now appears to have had an ulterior motive but i'm not so go try it on with someone else."
If you have an issue with that please keep it to yourself in the future. nobody else seems to have the the same problem as you."
So I used Tom's thread to "force" my opinion? "Unsolicited"? You're the only one that doesn't want another members opinion. "Ulterior motive"? You gotta be kidding. I don't even know you. Actually, I think you have a lot of knowledge and we can always use that here. Overall, I believe you have more knowledge than I do. But as far as your air correctors, you're asking members to do the wrong thing. And as for me being the only one here who "seems to have a problem" with your method, only a few members have joined this thread and may not know enough or care to share their opinion about your method. You want us all to believe that an "air corrector" that restricts air flow and atomization to less than stock, is an ideal substitute for raising a jet needle to achieve correct jetting? You counter the effects of increased air flow through the main bore by decreasing the air jet size? Backwards jetting. The only way you can safely benefit from increased air flow is to equally increase the fuel flow. Short cuts sometimes work, but not in this case.
As for your choke fix and your website info;

"Rich running. Sooty plugs. Increased fuel consumption. Power loss. High, Erratic or Hanging idle etc."
I appreciate your offering another option for members with dried up/hardened choke plungers. I really do. There's no consequences here as there are with the air correctors. But there is some exaggeration, incorrect information and salesmanship involved.
"Rich running, sooty plugs, increased fuel consumption" is correct, but to the extent that you imply, not likely. The moment the throttle is opened, the starter/choke circuit is bypassed. Only at idle/completely closed throttle can leaking choke plungers contribute to those 3 things. Maybe if the bike is idled extensively and even then only with plungers that are completely hardened, would those 3 things be significant enough to notice. Whenever I ride, I doubt that I'm idling 1% of the entire ride so those things are negligible. "Power loss". Any power loss would be your imagination. "High idle", on a fully warmed up engine, isn't related to leaking choke plungers. Try opening the choke, as if to simulate a leaking plunger, and the engine rpm's will drop or die on a fully warm/hot engine.
Again, I appreciate your choke plunger option, but not all the words you use to push your product. Helping members here is great, it may even help me someday, but misleading information shouldn't be used.

[zed1015]

. But as far as your air correctors

Again you quote inaccurate statements and i don't ever recall saying or does it state anywhere that the air correctors were mine and your comments on the varying symptoms and severity of worn choke plunger seals really shows you don't know what you are talking about..

It appears that you aren't going to stop muddying the waters by steering off at tangents and i'd have more success convincing a flat earther that the world is a globe so i'm going to stop wasting my time on this thread and leave you to your own devices..

The air correctors are a dyno proven worldwide known solution that i simply made available again after the upsurge in popularity of the of VM equipped classic aircooled Z and GS fours gave rise to the same old issues when running open carbs or stacks.

They were originally marketed as LEDaR induction kits and were available for many two and four stroke motorcycle applications running Mikuni or Keihin carburettors of both Mechanical operated slide and CV types.

Maybe you should go educate yourself and research said kits and more specifically the highly intelligent innovator LEON MOSS the founder of LEDaR ( Lincoln Engine Development and Racing) who sadly died in a freak accident in 1990 where his business and the availability of the kits died out with him.
He was a respected leading figure at MIRA ( The Motor Industry Research Association) built his own highly accurate water brake dynometer and was a technical consultant and trouble shooter for the major motorcycle manufacturers as well a highly skilled engine tuner and engineer alongside many other talents.
I'm pretty certain that non of his world renowned innovations were ever incorrect shortcuts.

You should also look up GREG COPE who should also know what he's talking about..
He is a respected engine tuning guru, cylinder head specialist and engine building expert of over 40 years who is currently at Star Racing whose advice on fine tuning the air correctors size for adjusting the fuel slope for better throttle response and allowing the use of a smaller main jet whilst retaining the same overall A/F ratio is widely published.
And although the most readily found reference is aimed at improving the response of the 33 smoothbores that suffered a low to midrange stumble the same principle and effect applies to adjusting the needle jet tube air bleed size on any carburettor.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I think you've spent too much time on that little island. Forgetting how to talk to people without getting all bent out of shape is one of the signs.
Your "air correctors" are nothing but restrictors. They provide LESS air flow than the stock air jets do. With less air flow than stock, they compromise the needle jets ability to atomize the fuel correctly as it's sent into the main bore. Stop there. There's no need to continue describing what happens next but we know the process isn't going to magically transform itself before it enters the combustion chamber.
Your air correctors are your way of "richening" the mixture without actually increasing fuel flow in any of the jetting components. Richen the mixture by decreasing the air flow in a jetting component? Why don't you install pods and then wrap tape around them 90% because you don't want to go through the work of re-jetting?
Increasing the air flow means you must increase the fuel flow. You don't go backwards by increasing the air flow and then install an air restrictor.
It's the wrong thing to do. That's what you're trying to convince others to do. That's the only reason I reply to your nonsense.

[zed1015]

Zed -

You said earlier that you were going to stop wasting your time and leave Keith to his own devices. Then you continue to waste your time and ours by reposting your entire last message.

Yeah! Rob S. You are right.
I've deleted the re-post, I had second thoughts about posting it as i did it and was just about to remove it anyway when you posted your reply before i had chance.
The guy just can't stop quoting the same textbook theories which whilst mostly correct on a base level doesn't fully understand in depth the intricacies of and that's fair enough if it serves him well at his skill level but the continuing to repeat the same untrue statement that the air correctors are some snake oil invention of mine is not acceptable and is why i bit.
I was asked to reproduce them because of the demand not the other way round.
I supplied search reference info for him ( which interestingly and not unsurprisingly he didn't acknowledge or dispute in his last self contradictory rambling reply) to find out and benefit from for himself but he'll still insist that black is white and there's no helping people that won't accept anything beyond or additional to what they believe.
Anyone can look up Leon Moss, LEDaR ,Greg Cope and Mikuni's comparable BS30/97 jets application and effect on the A/F ratio and fuel slope which doesn't affect atomisation for themselves if they wish, it's all out there and even on this forum in the archives.
I will leave it at that now but i bet you a ride on the drag bike in my sig the next time we are off this little island again and over in the US for the nostalgia drags that he can't.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Tom, I hope your bike runs well in the end. As for your broken exhaust stud, you said just a little is sticking out? What about spraying some penetrating oil on it, a couple of sharp hits to possibly jar the threads, let it sit a while, re-spray, then warm up the bike several minutes. The idea is the threads will heat up and expand quicker than the steel stud. It might be that little bit of help you need?
Or, if you can run a nut a few threads, can you safely weld a nut on the end and then spray, etc? What about E-Z outs?
Too bad about the back and forth with zed. It's happened here before. Same reason. One member shares time proven advice while the other wants to make money.

[oldGSfan]

There's a machine shop that I found nearby that will have them out by tomorrow. I just didn't want to bung things up. Another valve cover bolt snapped and was started to be drilled out as well. Some ham-fistedness going on but it's generally looking good inside. I can see that it has a fresh top end with just a few starts, it turns freely and is clean and journals/cams look perfect. Valve clearances are spot on. The cylinder came off fine but the studs were extremely tight. All in all a mixed bag but nothing scary, just a gorilla must've been at the wrenches. But now I need to get gaskets so it's more $.

Let's stick a fork in the back/forth on the carb talk, I'll update in my build thread once I have it back together.

Tom, I hope your bike runs well in the end. As for your broken exhaust stud, you said just a little is sticking out? What about spraying some penetrating oil on it, a couple of sharp hits to possibly jar the threads, let it sit a while, re-spray, then warm up the bike several minutes. The idea is the threads will heat up and expand quicker than the steel stud. It might be that little bit of help you need?
Or, if you can run a nut a few threads, can you safely weld a nut on the end and then spray, etc? What about E-Z outs?
Too bad about the back and forth with zed. It's happened here before. Same reason. One member shares time proven advice while the other wants to make money.