Exhaust bolt replacement?

[oldskull]

I recently got a 77 750B and I plan on keeping it. I think I will eventually need or want to remove the exhaust for one reason or another. I am considering soaking the bolts for a week or so with PB blast and giving it a go or leaving them alone and try to remove them when I have to. I plan on replacing them with studs or use stainless bolts and anti-seize. I just imagine they will get more corroded if I wait but by how much is anybody's guess. Looking for advice.

This is what they look like:

[Rich82GS750TZ]

A soak in PB certainly wont hurt. Others have suggested a better penetrating oil is Kroil (no experience). Some have suggested an ever-so-slight tightening motion, before turning counter-clockwise. I don't know if that works or not. I, like so many others, have dealt w/ broken exhaust bolts. From the looks of the outside, you should definitely use something. I now use Stainless Steel Allen Head bolts from the hardware store, w/ anti-seize on the treads, and have no issues. I do re-check the torque every few hundred or 1000 miles.

[rphillips]

Good to be thinking ahead, like others I've been there done that. No doubt best penetrating oil you can think of, for a while, & then possibly a socket on a drill-driver or 1/4" impact driver set low so it can hammer (vibrate) on the bolt instead of just muscling it out. Going back on, studs to replace the bolts & plenty of anti-seize.

[Gorminrider]

Yes^^per these guys. Start now with the oil. Be aware you can get behind the collars to oil where the bolts and the thread enters engine, but you need it in the collars too. Get a bright flashlight and your head in there and I think you'll see.. I just used ATF mixed with paint-thinner as penetrating oil (acetone is what's supposed to be better mixed but...)
Tap away at the rust and the collars. A bit of vibration is good. There's no thread in the collars so there has to be a place for oil in there to work at any binding rust.
...and I impacted them both ways...while I was oiling and then a bit harder when I came to thinking it was time to gird my loins and get them actually off :ie: if you get a bit of a motion loosened, tighten it in again, then out, then in, etc etc with copious oil and time for it to penetrate each time. I've done 4 bikes this way without the Big Disaster...need say that one was a Honda with stud and nut and the nut didn't come off-the stud turned out- so I'm not sure of the advantage of stud and nut anymore except that they are easier to find than the Hi-strength OEM Suzuki bolt? Do be sure a stud or bolt is hi-strength. I considered making a stud for the Honda but rejected it on that basis.

I don't know about stainless. ...On boats, it can be an especial horror threaded into aluminum. But once bit twice-shy.

[Nessism]

It's absolutely critical that you don't use too much force on those screws because they just love to break off. Soaking in penetrating oil is a good idea. It would be even better if you spray them down while the engine is hot, or use a torch to heat them up good and hot before spraying. Use a short handle ratchet wrench, a 1/4" drive is a good idea. If the screws don't turn out easily work them both ways, tighten and loosen until you get them to crack loose. Once you get them to move hit them with more spray and heat and rock the bolt back and forth, tighten/loosen, until you are finally able to get them out. Take your time and never force them...consider this your warning.

[rphillips]

Grom, using studs & nuts, if nut comes off stud or stud comes out of head, either is good. It seems it doubles your chances of "not" having a disaster

[Gorminrider]

Yes, that's true.. And with a stud and nut a body might even split the nut off too if you could get at it with a dremel or hacksaw. But I thought it was worth a mention. The corrosion was apperently worse at the nut than at the block. I made a reckless effort take a nut off a (Honda) stud once removed and it snapped off.

[Gorminrider]

I plan on replacing them with studs

oh, and still on that, do try to match the threaded length of the stud with the bolt you remove engine side. Like wise, match the UNTHREADED portion up to the original Suzuki bolt head...that is, I'd avoid having thread where it didn't need to be between collar and motor and inside the collar.. Thread is little weaker and more corrosion prone when next you want to remove the pipes. Of course you can cut extra off but you might need to cut some more threads too, depending on what studs you can buy. This might take stainless off the option list as it's harder to thread? or ruins a tool? not sure...

It's a bit of thought and or trouble but just might be worth it down the road or, for the next guy.

[oldskull]

All great advice. Thank you.

[Noreg]

I bought some obscenely expensive titanium bolts from ebay. Then I managed to lose one...

[slayer61]

Over the years I have moved to a Yamaha part for all my bikes. Yamaha 90179-08004-00

Pic courtesy of Partzilla




It's wrenched down with an Allen wrench and it's long enough to drill & tie wire & I won't have to worry about it backing off.

[Allie]

It's absolutely critical that you don't use too much force on those screws because they just love to break off. Soaking in penetrating oil is a good idea. It would be even better if you spray them down while the engine is hot, or use a torch to heat them up good and hot before spraying. Use a short handle ratchet wrench, a 1/4" drive is a good idea. If the screws don't turn out easily work them both ways, tighten and loosen until you get them to crack loose. Once you get them to move hit them with more spray and heat and rock the bolt back and forth, tighten/loosen, until you are finally able to get them out. Take your time and never force them...consider this your warning.

Ayuh.... patience is your friend.

I will just add that if you absolutely must break one, DON'T break one next to the frame.

[oldskull]

I pray that doesn't happen. I've read a number of things about penetrants and they are all over the place and so I may just go with (cheap) Liquid Wrench liberally applied, some strategic tapping with a hammer, possibly heat, and careful wrenching. Tomorrow I will pick up some Liquid Wrench and start the process. Wish me luck.

[Rob S.]

I pray that doesn't happen. I've read a number of things about penetrants and they are all over the place and so I may just go with (cheap) Liquid Wrench liberally applied, some strategic tapping with a hammer, possibly heat, and careful wrenching. Tomorrow I will pick up some Liquid Wrench and start the process. Wish me luck.

Good luck and welcome to the site. If something does get stuck, I think the torch may turn out to be your best friend.

[roeme]

I've had good success with both a torch and ice spray. Hot/Cold cycling is your friend, though it must be noted this is happening to the exhaust bolts anyway ��

Hot engine is a good call, you want the threaded portion of the bolt moving, not its head.