77 GS400 more ignition point troubles

[Grimly]

Sorry if I am being confusing, the condensers on my bike are next to the coils, not under the ignition plate. When replacing the condenser do you think I should just pry off this orange stuff(?) and resolder the new condenser wire in its place.

Yeah, electrically it's the same whether the condenser is down there or up there. You could clean off the orange stuff and inspect the joint, it may be be corroded underneath, so that would be good to know about.

[Gorminrider]

that's so ugly...yes it'd be best to redo if it's at all loose or seperating but maybe better not to mess with it yet! I'd try just cutting the black wire and connecting your new capacitor to it first-.of course Wrap with good tape or slip heat-shrink tube on...naturally.you don't want that black wire ever touching ground when you're riding...but it's all pretty sheltered up there under the tank

[gorillafan208]

I did not see your advice until AFTER I had soldered in the new condenser oops. I think I did okay, but it was only my second time soldering. Still no light with my continuity tester, so now time to test the coils. I am not gonna rule out that it could not be working cause my soldering job wasn't up to par though.

[Gorminrider]

Forget the coils for now. Disconnect them- can you get make-and-break across the points with your continuity light? That is the first thing to know and fix.

[gorillafan208]

Do you mean clipping the wire lead of each point and putting the probe on a ground to see if it lights up? I can get make and break on the left set of points but not the right.

[Gorminrider]

1) with power off, and points disconnected from everything, use the ohmeter. function of a multitester... One lead to where the power comes in (the insulated side) the other to ground( the base plate) rotate the engine with a wrench so the points open and close and the meter shows infinite resistance (open poiints) or no resistance (closed).

2) or with power on, get a 12v lightbulb with wires attached (a turn signal with clips on the wire ends is handy) and put it in series ...either, connect it in place of the coil OR "beside it","in parallel", to the same connections the coil is using... Rotate engine with a wrench-it should go off when points open,on when they are closed.

3)or, with power on, use a voltmeter. Connect one probe to where the coil connects to + the other probe to where the coil connects to points (the insulated side) voltmeter reading will change radically as the points open and close.(This is a "voltage drop" test )

[uk gs nut]

I still think the points, both the body and spring part are permanently earthed. The screw and nut holding the spring and fibre washers. Put a different set of points on right side, even old ones and try checking again.

[Gorminrider]

^^that's what I am trying to establish as a first suspect. Gotta start somewhere. Then, "up the line" to coil's power supply. 2),3) above will also show if there is power to the coil...by simply grounding the bulb or negative probe.

[gorillafan208]

I will try all of this and report back. Thank you for your detailed writeup!