Electrical cleaner

[Cipher]

Bet you they (the bulbs and connectors) came out easy. Dielectric grease should not be used above 380 degrees F, but there are some that are made to take that. Being silicon based, it should not be used in Pin Connectors, like in aircraft that have those connectors with 30 or so pins sticking out, as some are silicon based and can break down the connector. There are very specific cases, but none that apple to connectors on motorcycles. You obviously wouldn't cover points with them, as that would be like putting an insulator over the points. They can be used on Spark plug boots, makes them easier to remove.

There really isn't much to research on dielectric great when it comes to motorcycles. If you are going into the Aerospace industry, different story. It does not form verdigris ( a patina) though. You won't find anything that even suggests that, quite the opposite. This is one paper, if ready wrong, would make one come to the wrong conclusion, but they were referring to the make up of the compound, which allowed current to pass as it had superfine metallic power in it, and that was at 500 degrees.

I am a State of Connecticut certified licensed electronic technician. I had a T.V. and Audio repair shop for over 10 years. People on this forum make outrageous statements, even a couple in this thread, who after researching what I said realized his statement was wrong. I respect this particular person as he has much knowledge, but is not correct about a good electronic connection and dielectric great affecting it. That is just plain wrong. Look that up, and you will find too many to count statements saying that concept is wrong.

I do get overzealous when I read hogwash as being something you should drink.

You're a clearly unstable.

[Suzukian]

You're a clearly unstable.

You can't back up your statements. You're unbalanced. Quiescing with bit and pieces of bad information unable, to put together a proper response. So you idle on, having reached the limits of your knowledge, can't power up, as there is nothing too amp up on. You can only cast slings and arrows. "With much knowledge comes much sorrow"... You must be one happy person. You shouldn't reply to threads that are above your pay grade.

[Grimly]

A couple of years ago I made my own De-oxit from the original formula, which was simply Oleic Acid in a carrier solvent.
It works well and costs next to nothing.

[LAB3]

Every now and again I drop by to see if there's a question I might be able to help answering. Almost invariably I run across a thread like this one, good answers followed up with a barrage of replies that serve no other purpose than for people to prove to themselves they know something while simultaneously proving to everyone else how much they truly don't know.

I'm glad I'm on an XS1100 these days, that crowd seems to be mature enough to accept what they don't know thereby leaving speculation and rabbit hole diving out of the mix.

But anyway, I digest. How do I clean a switch? I take it apart, dip the parts in salt and let Deer lick them clean.

[trent]

Every now and again I drop by to see if there's a question I might be able to help answering. Almost invariably I run across a thread like this one, good answers followed up with a barrage of replies that serve no other purpose than for people to prove to themselves they know something while simultaneously proving to everyone else how much they truly don't know.

I'm glad I'm on an XS1100 these days, that crowd seems to be mature enough to accept what they don't know thereby leaving speculation and rabbit hole diving out of the mix.

But anyway, I digest. How do I clean a switch? I take it apart, dip the parts in salt and let Deer lick them clean.

Nice to see you back.

My friends dad had an ole xs1100 with a fairing, bags...stashed in his garage for years

We got got it running, put tires on it. That thing would MOVE...LOL

[Suzukian]

You're a clearly unstable.

I just got an inbox saying to filter you as you have a chip on your shoulder and there's something wrong with you. Thought you might want to know how well you are thought of.I won't filter you though, I like a good chuckle every now and then
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[LAB3]

Nice to see you back.

My friends dad had an ole xs1100 with a fairing, bags...stashed in his garage for years

We got got it running, put tires on it. That thing would MOVE...LOL

That's what mine is, the bagger version and you're right, it's scary fast! The Goldwing was just nickel and dimeing me to death and I really wanted to pick up an ST1100. With the prices of anything used going through the roof a $2500 bike was going to cost me at least $4k, the XS1100 was $1500 and only required about two hours worth of work to get into top running condition. The Goldwing was donated to a guy in rehab that was "fighting the good fight" and truly deserved a break.

[Suzukian]

XS1100 is an awesome bike. I sold and rode many of those. These days I enjoy my ZZR1200 immensely.

[Nessism]

I've tried soaking terminals in mild acid solution before and while it helps, it's not as effective as physically cleaning. The problem with a bike harness is reaching down inside the connector to clean the brass. One idea to clean easily is to use a tiny media blaster with soda. Paasche makes one. Soak with water when done. Of course, this will be easiest to execute with the harness off the bike.

[bonanzadave]

How do I clean a switch? I take it apart, dip the parts in salt and let Deer lick them clean.

White tail Deer saliva is not conductive! Must be a Mule Deer for proper electrical contact. Sheesh ! this has turned into an oil thread.

I have 3 cans of contact cleaner. WD40 electric, CRC, and DeOxit.

[trent]

I have 3 cans of contact cleaner. WD40 electric, CRC, and DeOxit.

Stop bragging and gloating...LOL.kidding

I used some CRC and it worked it Cleared up sketchy response from Switches ,so far.

But fur real...I went to a shop that does a lot of electrical stuff after I had already used the CRC and noticed tech there using deoxit in and on pretty much same thing as I did.

CRC was my only choice in the town I was in at the time.

I'm sure someplace closer to home will have all options available.

I'm just not sure if any lubrication should have been applied after CRC ?
But like I said seen tech using deoxit.

[LAB3]

Here's my no-nonsense reply. Spray cleaner is your go to when you can't physically access the contacts such as inside the bullet connectors in the wiring harness. Steve is an electronics guy by trade and it would be tough to argue with how a pro does things, if he used deox-it then that's the wise choice. I've used CRC in the past with good results but I'll certainly keep Grimly's idea in mind for next time since he's a cheap ba$7@rd like me.

Handlebar switches are easy enough to take apart and you can readily get to the contacts. In that case I take some sandpaper and clean up the contact surfaces until they're down to shiny colored metal and reassemble.

As to using other cleaners or dielectric grease I'll defer that to others but one thing you can be assured of, they'll warn you that your bike will explode, you'll suffer from male pattern baldness, erectile dysfunction and eventually be sodomized by sociopathic street gang members if you don't do things the way they describe! Following my method I can assure you that this won't happen.

[Suzukian]

When I restored 450SL Mercedes, the rocker panels for the electric windows always corroded. I would take them apart, I had a box of them, as at time they were all the same, and take them apart, clean the little rocker in there where the ball bearing settles, clean or replace the spring, usually with some Pb BLaster kind of lube, .0001 sand paper, and a brass wire brush. Putting them back together was easy enough, I filled the chamber with high quality dielectric grease, and those windows and switches always worked flawlessly. I could never understand why Mercedes made convertibles that had switches with no drain holes, 1/16th in gaps around the rocker, and absolutely no waterproofing.

[trent]

When I restored 450SL Mercedes, the rocker panels for the electric windows always corroded. I would take them apart, I had a box of them, as at time they were all the same, and take them apart, clean the little rocker in there where the ball bearing settles, clean or replace the spring, usually with some Pb BLaster kind of lube, .0001 sand paper, and a brass wire brush. Putting them back together was easy enough, I filled the chamber with high quality dielectric grease, and those windows and switches always worked flawlessly. I could never understand why Mercedes made convertibles that had switches with no drain holes, 1/16th in gaps around the rocker, and absolutely no waterproofing.

I'm gonna have to do that with my trucks drivers door window switch.. I don't think new switch cost that much but I'll try cleaning it up first.

[Suzukian]

My Ford Taurus cleaned up with PB Blaster.