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1983GS750ES Tachometer not working
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Forum GuruPast Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Jun 2018
- 5387
- Mifflinburg, PA / Land of Tar & Chip
Start with removing the cable. Unscrew it from the valve cover and the bottom it the tach. See if the inner cable is broken.
Oh, and welcome to the forum.Rich
1982 GS 750TZ
2015 Triumph Tiger 1200
BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux
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Forum GuruPast Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Jun 2018
- 5387
- Mifflinburg, PA / Land of Tar & Chip
Originally posted by rphillips View PostOohh, "83", that's close to the start of the elect. tach., possibly no cable.
Doesn’t trevor have an 83 750 ES? Maybe he could confirm.Rich
1982 GS 750TZ
2015 Triumph Tiger 1200
BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux
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I have that bike. No Tach cable. When the Tach goes dead, it may be the dreaded charging system going bad. If it hasn't been upgraded, search the threads, you'll need a new Stator (maybe0 R/R (Regulator/Rectifier), and wire it differently. I don't want to open a can of worms, but I have fixed many of these bikes by using the R/R off of a Yamahss XD1100, running the Stator wires directly to the R/R, which is mounted under the tool try, and run the +/- directly to the battery. That solved all the problems. I used an "Electrosports" Stator, 20% more power. The Yamaha R/R is big, has huge cooling fins, and has worked for over 10 years without any problems. I purchased my bike new.
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Replace it with an "Electrosports" R/R which regulates all 3 legs of the stator. The stock one only regulated one leg, and the other two legs swung up and down till the horrid grounds took them out. The Negative battery wire is grounded to the engine, and the place is not bare metal, it is on paint. Suzuki relied on the threads of the bolt to make the ground. The electrolysis finally catches up and kills the horribly designed charging system, no ground, and you have a floating 12volt system that just bakes everything connected to it.
What I did was buy an Electrosports Stator. I used a beefy XS1100 R/R,the one that has three male connectors for the stator, order does not matter, then ran the +/- directly to the battery with 2 12" wires. 12K miles later, no problem. I ran the wires from the new32 stator directly to the R/R. I pulled out the old stator wire. Around 6 feet of way too thin gauge wire, and I fixed all the grounds. I grounded the battery to the bolt that holds down the tank, making a bare spot on the frame, and also grounded the engine to the battery posts. The engine should be grounded for the spark plugs. The mounting bolts aren't good enough as they were put on a painted engine and will not ground the engine to the frame. This will fix your bike. I built my 1983 GS750ES out of the crate. I know that bike like that back of my hand. I also am a State of Connecticut licensed and certified electronic technician.
I'd use their stator, but go with a beefier R/R.
This one is used, but it's only $16 bucks.
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