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    clutch switch relocate

    Has anyone ever tried or done this?

    In an effort to keeps wires and cables to a bare minimum on the handle bars, I've eliminated the brake light switch from the brake level and used a hydraulic switch in the brake line joint just under the headlight. Works super great! Now, my challenge is how or where can I relocate the clutch switch (from the clutch perch) so as to eliminate the wire from the bars as well?

    I know, sounds crazy but as i stated earlier, I'm going for the minimalist look.

    1981 Suzuki GS850gl, Café Racer!

    Built, not Bought!

    #2
    Check your wiring diagram (or just follow the wires). I believe the connector may be in the headlight bucket. It’s usually a simple matter to eliminate the clutch switch. The male / female connector are set up so that you can remove the switch and complete the circuit without even redoing any of the connectors. So I’ve read.

    I’m sure you know that eliminating that switch means you’ll be able to start the bike without the clutch engaged. Well, I might not start, it might just throw you off and potentially cause unknown damage to you or other nearby persons, pets or objects.
    Last edited by Rich82GS750TZ; 03-20-2024, 11:44 PM.
    Rich
    1982 GS 750TZ
    2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

    BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
    Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

    Comment


      #3
      '60s and '70s Triumphs and BSAs have a brake light switch in the cable jacket of the front brake cable. Maybe you could adapt that.

      Comment


        #4
        Rich has the right idea. You can remove the switch entirely. Just follow the wires into the headlight bucket, where you will find bullet connectors into the main harness. Fortunately, one is male, the other is female, so you can pull the wires from the switch, then re-connect the main harness wires to each other.

        As Rich also warns, ... if you are not in Neutral, the bike will move if the clutch is not pulled.

        I have often offered this as a bypass option to those who are tired of pulling the clutch every time. I ask if they would like it, telling them it's a simple 2-minute mod that is reversible. I have actually performed the operation in 1 minute, 38 seconds. It only involves removing the headlight, changing the connections, re-installing the light.
        If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space.

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          #5
          Thanks Gents!! I really dont want to eliminate the switch; I do like the idea Bitzz came up with. I'll look into that. Thanks again for your responses.

          1981 Suzuki GS850gl, Café Racer!

          Built, not Bought!

          Comment


            #6
            When you forget to check it's in neutral once, you will always check thereafter, so the lack of switch is no biggie. And the lack of switch removes another potential failure point, just like the neutral-light interlock.
            Just another attempt to sanitise motorcycles and make them 'safer'.
            Shyyyit, if I wanted to ride safely, I'd not buy a motorcycle in the first place.
            ---- Dave

            Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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              #7
              Your cable has got to be there anyway, possibly run the existing wire in a spiral loom along with the cable to under the tank then bring wires from headlight bucket to under tank, and connect them there. Just a thought.
              1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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                #8
                Great ideas! thx all!

                1981 Suzuki GS850gl, Café Racer!

                Built, not Bought!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Assuming you're on a GS850, which has the little exposed lever down on the right side of the bike, you could easily rig up a rear brake light switch to actuate from that lever on the cases.

                  Or just do what most of us end up doing and bypass the stupid janky unreliable thing.
                  1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
                  2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
                  2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
                  Eat more venison.

                  Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

                  Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

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                  Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I removed mine all together. So far it aint ran off without me.
                    1982 GS1100E "Jolene"

                    Comment


                      #11
                      GS in some other markets shipped from the factory without the clutch/ starter cut off and no provision in the wiring loom for one. We never had them and it's never been a problem. Just remove it unless it needs to be retained for legal reasons.


                      "Johnny the boy has done it again... This time its a scrubber"
                      Dazza from Kiwiland
                      GSX1100SXZ, GSX750SZ, GS650GZ All Katanas, all 1982

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You can certainly disconnect the clutch/start feature. Most people will probably never have an issue. Just have to remember to be sure bike is not in gear before you press the start button. Order of operation should get ingrained in muscle memory. For me, I don’t recall if my 1972 DT 250, nor the 1986 200X needed the clutch pulled in to start, but they were kick-start. It became immediately clear if in gear when attempting to start. Every bike I’ve had since having my license needed the clutch engaged in order to start, as does my MINI. It’s an ingrained startup procedure on my bikes and car. Key on, clutch engaged, press start.
                        Rich
                        1982 GS 750TZ
                        2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

                        BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
                        Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yea you guys are right! its ingrained in me to pull the clutch anyway each time I start the bike so I'm just gonna remove the thing. Thanks again!

                          1981 Suzuki GS850gl, Café Racer!

                          Built, not Bought!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Why yes, only time them things were ever helpful was when somebody screwed up, and I sure ain't never go'in to do that.
                            1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Do away with it. just plug the two leads in the headlight bucket together
                              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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