Revision of homemade electric diagram

[Diirk]

Hi guys,

I haven't had all the time I wanted because if that were true I'd be riding my ass off instead of opening this thread.
However life happens to us all thus here we are and since I haven't the time yet to actually start working on the bike, I might as well ask for opinions of knowledgeable internet strangers

I've taught myself some basic "automotive electrics" and applied that new skill to drawing a diagram for my "79 GS850.I think it's all good, but because I'm new to this and I don't have anyone in my direct vicinity to confirm, I'm asking you guys.
Could you take a look at this diagram and confirm for me that I didn't make any mistakes? I'm aware USB-charging is only available with lights on because I want to be able to charge in PARK as well. And yes, I have an ON/OFF switch for the lights so the relais is "not neccesary" but I'm future-and-dummy-proofing it.

I've thrown this up in another forum as well, but didn't get any comments on it. Maybe 'cause it's really good... or maybe because nobody saw what's wrong with it (if anything).
Like I mentioned earlier: I'm insecure because I've never made a diagram like this and I need a pat on the back or a slap on the wrist to know if I'm heading the right direction.

CLICK HERE FOR A BIGGER PICTURE.
GS850Suzy.drawio (1).png

I haven't calculated the wiring yet, as I'm kinda putting it off since I don't know for sure if the diagram is correct. I'm being really overly cautious here, I know

[Rich82GS750TZ]

The picture, as displayed on the forum page, is too fuzzy to read the labels. I was going to try to see if I could improve it. I’ve clicked on your link for a bigger picture but all I get is this:

and not just when I’m in the company computer with protections from foreign sites and such. I get the same on my phone.

[Who Dat?]

Yep, same here.

[Diirk]

I'm a tool
I hosted the picture somewhere else, should be good now. As for the inline image: that's the best I could make of it using the forum's software.
Mind you: practically all the labels are in Dutch, but you should understand most of it nonetheless.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

[pdqford]

Nice drawing!
What software did that?

I have a question about the diagram.
(Note that I will always be trying to learn more about electrical stuffs.
So if my question is too silly, just ignore it.)

It looks to me like if the stator/RR is putting out more voltage than battery is supplying, I don’t see how the headlamp switch circuit is being protected by a fuse.
So if you had a short, say, like a wire in the head lamp circuit chaffed and got to ground while you were riding along, wouldn’t that circuit get fried?

[Diirk]

I used an online tool called draw.io but I can't recommend it. It's quite the hassle to line everything up nicely but it's free however and as you can see, it gets the job done (one way or another).


For your electrical question I'll do my best to answer, as I am also no expert by any means.

The light circuit has it's own fuse (follow the dark blue wire to the fuse "LICHT") but I assume you're talking about the wires that go from the switchgear to the low and high beam.
If a short should happen in any of those two wires (green or yellow) then the fuse "LICHT" will blow because they are connected to the dark blue wire through the switchgear.

That the r/r is pumping out more than 12V doesn't matter because it's being regulated to a safe maximum voltage. In we assume that this part of the r/r works correctly then in fact increasing the voltage lowers the current (this is Ohms Law).
In example: take a 60watt headlight and divide that by 12V = 5A. Now take the same headlight of 60W divided by 16V = 3.75A. This is merely an example, but you can see how the increase in voltage does not harm the circuits. Again, assuming the r/r is doing it's job. If you were to get 24V somehow, I guess you'd run into other issues.

[pdqford]

Wow! You’re way ahead of me.

I only got as far as the output of the R/R.
I see how the head light circuit is protected by the fuse (can’t make out the fuse name or number of that fuse) when the battery is supplying the current.
And I see how that same fuse is protecting the battery circuit while the battery is being charged by the R/R.

My concern is that if the R/R is supplying more current than the battery needs (I.e., the battery is charged up) won’t the R/R current bypass that fuse and feed the light circuit as per your diagram?

If no one else sees the diagram that way, I’ll just return to lurk mode.

[Grimly]

My concern is that if the R/R is supplying more current than the battery needs (I.e., the battery is charged up) won’t the R/R current bypass that fuse and feed the light circuit as per your diagram?

That's the job of the regulator - once the battery is fully charged, the regulator won't carry on passing current, because it has limited the charging voltage.
Of course, with a shunt type, it just diverts the excess back into the stator - much trouble ensues down the road, as we know.

[pdqford]

Okay, one more time:

Let's say the R/R is charging the battery..
What keeps the R/R supplied current from by passing that fuse
and going straight to the headlight circuit?

image.png
Sorry for my crude pointer
I'm still a clutz at this computer stuffs..

[pdqford]

My mistake
that red wire goes to the ignition switch, not the headlight circuit.
From there it feeds a number of circuits..

Here is what I would do/recommend:


image.png

That way those other circuits will be protected by a fuse.

[Diirk]

In your drawing the r/r is unfused so if anything should happen, it'll damage the battery (or worse). I more or less copied the original diagram on how to hook up the r/r and even though that diagram has it's own set of flaws, I believe the setup is equal to most UJM.
Of course I could just place another fuse in between the circuit that you drew, you might've already had that in mind as well. So you definitely have a point. After all: redundancy is better than a headache later on.

That's the job of the regulator - once the battery is fully charged, the regulator won't carry on passing current, because it has limited the charging voltage.
Of course, with a shunt type, it just diverts the excess back into the stator - much trouble ensues down the road, as we know.

The FH012 should be a series type (although there's some debate about it) so the stator shouldn't turn crispy... again


Rich82GS750TZ and Who Dat? maybe you can weigh in now the diagram is clear?

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Oh, no thank you. This is above my pay grade.

[Diirk]

I absolutely love and loathe how electrical work makes everybody feel

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I have learned by reading and asking questions on this forum about the many things I didn't know about my own bike's electrics. My bike is pretty much stock except for the few modifications I've made: Changed out the stator, replaced the R/R w/ a Shindengen SH775, Consolidated the grounds around the panel to a Single Point, cleaned or made new every single electrical connection. These modifications were made under the tutelage of folks on the forum who are much more educated in these matters than I. So I will leave the advice to the experts.